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HELP w/Electrical Troubleshooting Problem <<< Fixed It

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sarasotausmc, Jul 24, 2006.

  1. sarasotausmc

    sarasotausmc 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Truck is running now.

    It was a combination of the battery cables and the fusible links. Ended up replacing them all, and rerouting the fusible link wires. Thanks for the help.



    1987 GMC Jimmy, 5.7/TBI, stock.

    Driving today, truck completely shut down, and immediately too. No engine, no radio, nothing that I could tell. No idiot lights came on. Get it over to the side, truck turned over (slower than usual) ok thought battery, cables or alternator. Opened up hood, hot (positive) cable melted slightly, two wires from alternator not in good shape either, but looked intact. Let it cool for a while, tried to start, battery dead.

    Put new battery in, and engine cranks fine, still no fuel. Starter fluid down the throat, there's fire but still no fuel. Wipers, blinkers, brake lights, power rear window and heater/defrost fan all work. Headlights, parking lights and radio no power. Of course no fuel, so figure no fuel pump either.

    My best guess is something has grounded out, but for the life of me can't figure it out. Checked positive battery with disconnected ground cable, no circuit. Checked positive battery with chassis ground, have a path. Doesn't sound right to me, but was told it should be like that, still doesn't sound right. Fuses all checked fine under dash (only fuse location I know of). Alternator a year a half old, voltage meter consistently reads 13-14 and did so prior to dying. The only thing electrical I did to the truck is cut the power wires to the power doors when I took them off. Each is cut flush with the insulation, capped well individually with elect. tape, and has run fine for two weeks of daily driving that way, so pretty much ruling that out. Only other thing I could think of is voltage regulator, which is internal to alternator. The battery cables need to be changed, but I think due to today now more than anything.

    Anything else I should be checking? I don't want to get it towed, have better stuff to spend my money on. Thanks.

    Oh, if you're on LeJeune, and want to see my truck, it's on base on Piney Green Rd. At least till PMO gets it towed for me.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2006
  2. TheSunDanceKid

    TheSunDanceKid Registered Member

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    well auto zone or checker can put certian eletrical componets in your truck just start testing with your alternator take it there and ask them to check it thell put it threw testing stages and will tell you if it failed if it does fail theres your problem if not keep working down the line on "main" componets and if your reading 13-14dc voltage when the truck is not on lol you got a prob bob it should read around 12.6 when the trucks off and the burn wiring find out if its a positive or negative and trace it back as far as you can where ever the problem is the wire is probably going to be burnt to hell and smell like total ass
    perhaps some more information on your problem and i might be able to help you more
     
  3. sarasotausmc

    sarasotausmc 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Normal has been 13-14 while running, about 12.5 with ignition on (not running). No voltage with key off. Otherwise, I tried to be as specific as possible. Are lights, fuel pump and radio on the same circuit? Would pulling the fuses for lights and radio (or disconnecting) have any effect on troubleshooting, removing those circuits if no power applied, no effect on ground? Is there one fuse for the doors to cut power to the cut wires?
     
  4. sarasotausmc

    sarasotausmc 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I was told today that the fuel pump is on the same circuit as the headlights?
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I wouldn't be surprised if you lost a fusible link, but check your fuses out if you haven't already.

    Fusible links are fairly easy to test...see if you are getting voltage from the battery/starter solenoid at the junction block on the firewall near the brake booster. I'd actually pull the wires off and measure each one independently.
     
  6. JBRATTON24

    JBRATTON24 Registered Member

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    dyeager535 is probably right. You probably popped a fuse somewhere down the line. If you can read wiring diagrams, I can send you electrical schematics via email, or you can go to Autozone and purchase the Haynes Manual #24064 and the schematics are located in the back and show locations of all fusible links and circuit breakers.
     
  7. sarasotausmc

    sarasotausmc 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    JBratton, I appreciate the offer. If you could send those to sarasotausmc@hotmail.com, I'll buy you a beer next time I am in Spring TX.
     
  8. TheSunDanceKid

    TheSunDanceKid Registered Member

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    well in newer cars they now put odd things such as the fuel pump airbags lighting and other things on the same circuit such as the radio so id look back to things youve replaced recently such as an aftermarket stereo and new lighting in the truck check back over your wiring also fuses and the relays to find the relays there usally in the engin compartment perhaps in a small black plastic box usally by the battery with some stuff labled on the top such as "fuelpump-a/C-battery-ABS-ECU" go to your feul pump the relay should make a clicking noice when its suposed it turns on
     
  9. sarasotausmc

    sarasotausmc 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Got it running today, despite the rain. Thanks for the help.
     
  10. TheSunDanceKid

    TheSunDanceKid Registered Member

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    so you got the truck done then some nice rain for some mud boggin? we just got into monsoon season so ive been hitting up parkss and empty fields in the city so far the cops havnt said **** so fun stuff and i dont have to go anywhere
     

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