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help with budgeting please

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BranndonC, May 29, 2003.

  1. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    ok, as some of you know i'm in the process of building my 1 ton rig. anyway my driveshaft came off last friday and now i need to add the price of a drive shaft into the mix.

    so with a budget of 1000 i need to get my truck to around 4 inches of lift, get a nice driveshaft (was thinking 1350 1 ton c/v from highangle) and pay for any parts that are needed in my axle rebuilding including calipers and pads for the front d60. so can i please get your suggestions on what you would do in my position? I have been wanting BDS front and rear, but that might have to come later because of the price, so any temporary 4 inch lift should do ok, but i want it to function correctly. FYI i have a 6 inch lift now, someone suggested just removing a leaf from the packs to lower it. is that a good idea?
     
  2. yellowK20

    yellowK20 Well Lubricated Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Why don't you want a 6" ?????? pulling aleaf out would work but why????
     
  3. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    run the 6" until its all over. don't screw with stuff that is in good order.

    the driveline is needed, get the 14B in there so that you can have the new one made with true 1350 u-joints as opposed to the "trick" u-joint.

    got your 8-lug wheels and tires yet?
     
  4. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Brandon,

    I'd call Jesse for a price quote before too much longer..... hate to say it, but you're NOT going to get where you want to be for $1000.

    Do a search on what people have spent just rebuilding D60's...it adds up FAST! Even the 14BFF gets pricey once you start replacing bearings, adding a locker, disc brakes, etc.

    I'm not trying to be the 'wet blanket' here....but you should know what things are going to cost BEFORE you start. Otherwise, the $1000 will be gone and you still won't have a running truck. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  5. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    i got a quote from jess for 450- for that shaft i mentioned. I'm not getting lockers, and already have gears and the disc brake kit and all necessary parts for it purchased., what i have so far is:

    37 inch SSr's
    Hummer bead locks
    disc brake kit including calipers and any mounting stuff (from az-kicken)
    gears and install kit from randys
    both axles (14FF & D60) I'm having the installer go over them and replace the needed parts on them then sandblast and paint them black for me.

    zakk, i cant "get the 14FF in there" because i dropped them off with zcar already and that's 300 miles from me and he's rebuilding them for me. so untill mid june i have no drive shaft, i could stay at 6 inches, and find a cheap shaft, but finding a shaft to fit with the 6 inches might just cost more than i want to spend on a "temp" shaft
     
  6. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    right. i would coordinate with Jesse. he will know what u-joint will work as a temp (new driveline w/ old axles) that can easily be upgraded to the new u-joint to go with the 14BFF.
     
  7. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    i can do that, but the lift is still an issue, if i get the right shaft for the 6 inch lift, will it still work with a 4 inch lift?
     
  8. Blazinaire

    Blazinaire 1/2 ton status

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    branndon, I see no reason why the shaft made for the 6'' wouldn't work with the 4''... look at it this way, I am still using my stock rear shaft (not recommended) with 6'' of lift and it has "held me over" just fine. What I'm trying to say is that the 2'' in ride height difference won't change the length of the rear shaft enough to notice, so just have the 1350 c/v shaft made now, it will work for you if/when you go to 4''.
     
  9. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    branndon, I see no reason why the shaft made for the 6'' wouldn't work with the 4''... look at it this way, I am still using my stock rear shaft (not recommended) with 6'' of lift and it has "held me over" just fine. What I'm trying to say is that the 2'' in ride height difference won't change the length of the rear shaft enough to notice, so just have the 1350 c/v shaft made now, it will work for you if/when you go to 4''.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    sounds fine to me, but wont i need to know pinion angles or something before i get the shaft? i cant get those angles untill i get the 14ff installed
     
  10. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    branndon, I see no reason why the shaft made for the 6'' wouldn't work with the 4''... look at it this way, I am still using my stock rear shaft (not recommended) with 6'' of lift and it has "held me over" just fine. What I'm trying to say is that the 2'' in ride height difference won't change the length of the rear shaft enough to notice, so just have the 1350 c/v shaft made now, it will work for you if/when you go to 4''.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    sounds fine to me, but wont i need to know pinion angles or something before i get the shaft? i cant get those angles untill i get the 14ff installed

    [/ QUOTE ]


    The CV-Style driveshaft design allows you to worry much less about pinion angles....getting accurate angles is mostly a "vibration" thing and you won't have vibes with the CV shaft anyway.


    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    ok, say i were to order the shaft from jess.... is there anything special i need to tell him or to ask for? I know that members get %10 off. What kit and u joint do i need to get for it to work on the 10 bolt?
     

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