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help with driveline angles, lift, ect...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by garyk5, Apr 6, 2001.

  1. garyk5

    garyk5 Newbie

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    Location:
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    Hi all! I just inherited an '84 Blazer and after visiting this site, I've decided to do some upgrades. The blazer will be used primarily for trail-riding and rock climbing in the Texas Hill Country (Extreme flex is the goal). As a new convert (I've been heavily involved in the street scene) I do need a little advice. First of all, I plan on installing an ORD 4" rear shackle flip, ORD high-strength front shackles, and either Tuff Country of Alcan front 4" springs. I plan on using 35" tires (swampers or BFG MT's, I'm undecided) and of course, I've got a sawzall and I'm dying to use it. My Blazer is currently stock, and I'd really like to get started, but I do have some questions... with a 4" lift (approx 5.25 with the HD shackels) will I need to drop my transfer case? I realize I'll have to get a drop steering arm, but what other pieces do I need to keep the driveline and steering system properly lined up and vibration free? Also, I was wondering if Depdog might be able to shed some light on exactly how he went about rebuilding his rear springs and if he could explain how he modified his Tuff Country front springs. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
     
  2. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    I do know most guys end up lower the t-case w/ 4 inches.... depending on flex you minght want a little longer d-shafts... also you'd want to look into the Ford shock mod for the front... steve has a writup on it in the tech area I think.

    [​IMG]
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
     
  3. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>With that much lift, you will need to drop the t-case. Just put the spacers over the crossmember instead of below it. I asked Depdog about his springs one time and I think he said that he took the fronts apart, painted them with some kind of special paint then added teflon inserts between the leaves. You should also grind the sharp edges off the leaves to reduce friction. I think he also did the same for the rear. The 87+ springs are a little softer so pick up a set of these. The overload leaf (thick one on the bottom) is for hauling or towing so if your not doing any of this take it out. Forget the usual steering corrections for the front. With the amount of travel you want, you need crossover. Dep did a tech article about this and ORD will be coming out with a kit soon.</font color=blue>

    [​IMG]
     
  4. garyk5

    garyk5 Newbie

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    Capt. Crunch,

    Yeah, I took a look at the '80 F 250 shock towers and that looks like the way I need to go. And from the looks of it, it's a bolt-on installation, making it that much easier. As for the rears, I think I'm going to go with a setup similar to Steve Fox's. There are a few decent fab shops in my area, so that shouldn't be a problem.

    biggray71,

    Yeah, I guess you are right about the crossover steering, I never even thought about it. I got a price quote today on the Alcans, (180 each for the front) and I think I may go that route. I've also heard that the 87-91 model springs are softer, so I'll dig around the junkyard and see what I can come up with. I was told the 87+ springs have teflon inserts from the factory. Can anyone verify? Also, would having the springs powder coated reduce friction further, or should I just slap a coat of paint on them after smoothing them? And should I remove/modify the spring clamps to get more flex? One more question, how much should I tighten the shackles, obviously if they are too tight, there would be problems, but should I torque them to factory specs, or leave them a little looser? Sorry so many questions, this is my first lift and I want to do it right the first time.

    Thank you for your replies!!!!
    ~Gary
    :) '84 K5 bone friggin' stock (but not for long!)
     

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