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Help with what do I buy?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by babyburb, Jan 30, 2007.

  1. babyburb

    babyburb 1/2 ton status

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    All right Ck5 bretheren I need to spend some cash.

    It looks as if I will be able to spend roughly $1200 in the next month (tax refund)

    here is what I was thinking

    ORD
    4" shackle flip $189
    6" front leaf kit $245
    Steering Box Kit $120 bolt on or $75 weld on (which is better?)
    steering arm $75
    Replacement rear u-bolts $38

    My questions
    1.good place to get affordable brake lines
    2. do I need transfer case drop kit
    3. how can I get the other 2" in rear
    4. steering box kit choice
    5. shocks $37.50 @ $150 set from ORD or pro comp w/steering stablizer and boots from 4wparts.com at $149

    Is there anything else I need to complete a 6" lift?

    I am totally new to all of this.
    Thanks
     
  2. BigEasy

    BigEasy 1/2 ton status

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    Look into DIY4X's rear flip kit too. Price is a little more, but you end up with stronger shackles. I'd go with the bolt-in steering brace if you're frame's not cracked because it's easier to install (weld-in will end up costing more if you have to pay someone to weld it in anyways). You should be able to find a used steering arm for cheaper than $75 (actually, I think I have an extra). I think I have an extra set of extended rubber brake lines too. Transfer case drop, just relocate those spacer sleeves on the crossmember bolts so they are in between the frame & the crossmember, freebie. 2" in the rear can be gained with an add-a-leaf or 2" blocks (or lift springs for more $$$, or gain 1" with a Zero Rate). The Procomp 3000 shocks aren't too bad, if you're trying to stay on a budget, I'd run 'em. Other things you need to consider is lengthening your front & rear driveshafts. You'll also need new front U-bolts. Might be better off going with a complete lift kit instead of piecing one together. You could always add a flip kit to the rear later on.

    What size tires are you planning to run eventually? If you're not going that big, it might be better to stay with a 4" lift. It'll cost less and there's fewer modifications you'll have to make. EDIT- Just saw you're wanting 38.5" Boggers. So now the question is how much sheetmetal are you willing to trim?
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2007
  3. babyburb

    babyburb 1/2 ton status

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    I have someone that would weld it if I get it. Which is stronger? bolt or weld
    The pro comp shocks are 9000's, is this any better?
    If I dropped transfer case down, would I still need to lengthen driveshafts?
    Plan on running 38.5x11x16 Boggers
    Are you refering to the shackle flip-and-switch? if so would the 6" make the difference in the other 2" in rear.
     
  4. Leper

    Leper 1/2 ton status

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    Why are you going 6" if you are only running 38s? IMO you would be better off with 4" springs and a zero rate up front. That way you can move the axle forward some, and you can just add the zero to the rear to make it even.. You can get a little more lift in the rear by running kerts 6" shackle. If you think you will ever go with 56" rear springs, I would suggest the ORD flip. Because it is offset, you can just swap sides to run the 56". I dont know if Kerts is offset or not.
    Bolt in brace should be fine, the other is more of a repair kit. I wouldn't drop the tcase unless you have to. The rear angle will be better, but the front would be worse.
     
  5. sandawgk5

    sandawgk5 3/4 ton status

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    You can switch Kert's brackets to run 56s also that is what I have. I also run both weld-in and bolt-in braces. My frame was not cracked but I did the welded anyhow. Another option for the rear if you are set on 6" is to run a 2.5" flip and a 4" lift spring in the rear.

    For extended brake lines check here post #2. They are factory brake lines for an IFS truck that are 25" long and like $13 a piece. Once again that is what I run.

    For shocks I run cheap gabriels that I got from Ebay. I paid $64 with shipping for 4 of them and they have 12" travel. They have been on for about 1.5 Yrs know and no problems. I figure for $64 you can't go wrong.

    I would not drop the tcase. You have a burb and with the length of your driveshaft it should be good. If you have vibes I would shim the rear to correct pinion angle. Dropping the tcase is mainly to keep from binding your joints not to correct for vibes. Also when you drop the rear you cause the front output to rise up there for making the shorter front shaft angles worse.

    Cant help you with the arm as I have crossover. I would normally recommend crossover but the cost goes up substantially for a 1/2 or 3/4 ton axle and you seem to have a set budget.

    Even with 38.5s if you flex it you will need to trim with only 6" lift. Search for Readymix's post on his cut. He swapped to 39.5 and runs 6" lift. You might not need to cut as much as he did but chances are you will have to cut some. As was said in an earlier post zero rates front and rear will help fit the tires also as in the front it will allow you to move the tire away from the firewall and get a little more clearance.

    Ira
     

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