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Hey Rene! It worked! (Clutch pedal install without new bracket)

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BowtieRed, Sep 14, 2003.

  1. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    Yep!! and i can already tell it's plenty strong!

    Here's what I did- I grinded a slot into the existing brake pedal bracket. so that the pedal has a full range of motion.
    [​IMG]

    Then I took the brake pedal off. and went and got a 7"x7/16" Grade 8 bolt with only 1" of threads do the pedal bushings function like stock. I ran it through what i think is part of the factory bracket for the clutch pedal (not sure- was sent to me) then into the clutch pedal. Then to space the pedals like i wanted them, i added 10 regular washers and one lock washer (only bought ten washers, but wanted a little bit of lock action and a little more space) then through the brake pedal bracket, brake pedal bushing, and the other side of the bracket. I capped it with a grade five washer because apparently ace has a grudge against the size 7/16- they didn't have any stainless 7/16" nuts or any other 7/16" stainless product.

    Clutch pedal-
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Nut on passenger side of brake pedal bracket (good thing i opted for 7" instead of 6!) ( i probably will go back to a factory nut that is elliptical at the top to lock it now that i think about it.
    [​IMG]

    Then i rotated the support on the far driver's side to the firewall, and tapped it with a hammer to mark where to drill. I drilled a 9/32 hole at first, and would have been big enough if the brace did not rotate on an arc. so i had to enlarge it to 3/8" and it still took persuading to go in hole. I like that though better fit. I tighted the 13mm bolt on the other side of the firewall until both surface sat flat on the firewall.

    Brace-
    [​IMG]

    Finally i took about 15 minutes with my $4 angle grinder from ebay to cut the brake pedal down even with the horizontal bar that goes halfway across the pedal. At this point it started smoking, so i wiggled the left half of the pedal off and quickly touched up the edges.

    And the finished product (again)
    [​IMG]

    And the transmission /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
    [​IMG] (yes, the grinder's vibration made the glove box open. )


    Of course, there are those little unexpected surpises /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
    [​IMG]

    I'll also note that I'll probably need to move my console back an inch to allow reverse to fully engage.


    If anyone would like a full, in depth write-up of the TH350-SM465 swap, start to finish, let me know in this thread- I'd enjoy writing that if ya'll want.

    Steve- any possibility you could put that in the tech section if anyone wants a write-up? If it's well written and detailed /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    Hope that helps somebody!
    Red
     
  2. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    looks good better get that rust taken care of /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  3. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    yes. . . it is diamond plate floor time /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  4. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    thats what i have in mine /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    how was the install? where'd you get the plate? what gauge? i want details and pics! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  6. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Not bad Red.../forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    I'd remove all your carpet and see how bad the floor rust is if I were you. I did just that after I first got my truck...yikes it was bad!

    I prefer replacing and patching with 18-20 gauge satin coat steel...much lighter and the galvanized coating will help prevent future rust. Checker plate (or diamond plate) is too heavy for floor material IMHO.

    Rene
     
  7. 75-K5

    75-K5 3/4 ton status

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    I am extremely interested in a write-up!!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    now i think i have some leeway as far as mounting the clutch master, but at what point in the stroke should the clutch master pushrod be level? or leaving the pedal at normal position, how much below or above the pin that the pushrod to pedal should the middle of the master cylinder be?

    Thanks,
    Red
     
  9. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    which master cylinder do you have?? Is the push rod at angle?? You have got to get the push rod mounted about an inch lower than the bolt that holds the the pedal. Let me know if you need more info.
     
  10. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    ok- so basically it should be level at half stroke probably?

    i think i understand.
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I was just gonna ask where your rod was. Where'd the hydro setup come from?

    I think you're going to end up swapping your bracket. I did what you did and I was very unhappy with it. It got all messed up. I'm so glad I went and swapped the bracket now.
     
  12. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    hydro setup came from a 89 K5. everything did.
     
  13. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    how was the install? where'd you get the plate? what gauge? i want details and pics! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]
    it was in there when i bought the blazer so i don't have any info but ill see if i can get some pics for you i just need to pull up the carpet first /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. BigDummy89K5

    BigDummy89K5 Registered Member Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I was just gonna ask where your rod was.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Ain't that getting a little personal? /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    Stan
     

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