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High tech (totally obvious) tech tip of the week...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Thumper, Oct 3, 2002.

  1. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I have seen lots of people that share my problem, and I have been fighting with it forever but finally got it figgered out. You know the good old GM hood sticking down? Well, I have tried almost everything. Finally out of desperation, I WD40d the release mechanism.... guess what? It works. Like new actually. It releases the first time every time. And I dont have to slam the hood down either. It latches easily even by setting the hood down to the first detent, then leaning on it to lock it. WTF? I was totally resigned to having to slap the hood just left of center about 6" back from the edge every time to open it. For 5 years I have done that. I tried adjusting the hinges, the cable release, the bump stops, etc etc. Well.... just for info... give it a try!

    /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
    Mike
    /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  2. Been there, done that /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif ... but the problem comes back in a few weeks when the WD40 disolves /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  3. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Yep, WD-40 isn't much of a lubricant, and now all the dust and dirt is going to stick to it also. Once it dissolves try some dry silicone spray, it won't collect dirt and should last a lot longer. </font color>
     
  4. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    Silicone spray. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    I've used WD, Silicone. Maybe some dry graphite and if that doesn't work, how about Astroglide or KY?
     
  6. rockink5

    rockink5 1/2 ton status

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    Use white lithium grease. It doesn't wash away as easy /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  7. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    I don't have this problem.
    The hood is hard to open?
    I took what I could apart and used wheel bearing grease....a long time ago. Works fine.
    Am I missing something?
     
  8. Blazer1970

    Blazer1970 1/2 ton status

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    WD40 works ok to free it up, but as stated above, it will just rust worse than ever over a short time. Use the white lithium grease in a spray can. Gear oil works pretty good too. Also use the white lithium on your hood hinges, door hinges and clutch linkage if you have a manual with mech. linkage.
     
  9. BulldogK5

    BulldogK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I've had this problem with both of my Blazers. The thing I found on them was the cable had stretched and needs to have a spacer placed behind the ferrule. Liquid wrench doesn't evaporate as quick either.
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    As others have mentioned, put something more substantial on there than WD-40.

    I've been meaning to try that "grease in a can" (kind of like spray cheese lol) on my door lock/latch mechanisms...they were kind of sticky, I wd-40'd them, and they've worked great since, however, real grease would work better. The grease that comes in an "aerosol" can and thickens after application sounds like the ticket for that, if you can't or don't want to take the mechanism apart. Since it comes out more as a liquid, it may penetrate pretty well before solidifying.

    Don't agree with WD-40 causing rust though, (although it does attract dust and such) WD stands for "Water Displacing" and in salt water tests on steel, it did a better job than nothing at all and held up fairly well, and beat some of, the other products in keeping rust at bay.

    I typically use WD-40 to wash crud out of mechanism's (like the hood latch) but then use some type of actual grease to keep it from gumming back up.
     
  11. MNorby

    MNorby 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I sed chain lude that our farm gets at John Deere. Seems to last a good while for me. I spray my latch and hinges every oil change
     
  12. k5geezer

    k5geezer Registered Member

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    Used a bicycle chain product called White Lightning. It goes on as a liquid and penetrates the mechanism, then dries to leave only a non-sticky lubricant film that dust and grit don't stick to. Lubed it two years ago and it still works fine, and doesn't get all grimy like wet oil products do.
     
  13. FLASHLIGHT76

    FLASHLIGHT76 1/2 ton status

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    I live and work in a marine enviorment and I have found that OMC triple guard grease is the best greasing agent out there. It dosn't powderize like some and it will resist water beter then anything out there. It is designed for use on saltwater engines for boats. I'm in the coast guard and we use it on all are quick release pins and just about everything. I did all the latched on my truck after the salt air killed the lithium grease that was in there. Havn't had a problem since. You have to work it into the mechanism but once its there you'll never have to deal with it again. Just my two bits /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  14. Blazinaire

    Blazinaire 1/2 ton status

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    I thought that the hood was designed to stick, kinda' like an anti-theft device /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  15. milspecjimmy

    milspecjimmy 1/2 ton status

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    HOOD PINS /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  16. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    U guys have hoods.........................that open?
    I've had my K5 fer like 10 years and never opened the damn thing! Guess I just couldn't find the release all this time! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  17. Txstruck

    Txstruck Registered Member

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    Simple cure. There is some stuff called "Spray Grease" Mine was doing the same thing, Sprayed that on the hinges and latch and it works like new. Been thru a few mud holes and a few car washes and it works as good as the day I sprayed it on there! /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     

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