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Highsteer VS. Crossover ?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 81jimmyslt, Jan 29, 2004.

  1. 81jimmyslt

    81jimmyslt 1/2 ton status

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    Ok I have been searching these boards trying to figure out if I should do a highsteer setup or a crossover? I just bought a D60 and 14ff and am getting ready to do the swap and need some help making some decisions.

    What are the main advantages and disadvantages to both?
    The obvious is highsteer moves the tie rod up so it's less likely to get smashed. Highsteer puts more stress on tie rod and especially knuckle if hydro-assist is added.
    One of my thoughts was to see if it would work to run a high steer arm to do crossover until I can afford the driver side arm and new tie rod?

    I have a four inch lift so it seems clearance shouldn't be an issue, but I have been reading that if you plan to move your front axel forward highsteer can be a problem?

    One more thing, it seems to me my best choice for my budget would be to get my 4wd sector shaft swapped for a 2wd shaft, buy a ford superlift drop pitman arm, and a crossover arm from ORD or SKY, new draglink from?? ORD's are bent for crossmember do they still hit? and will my TRE from my D60 work for the draglink and new arm? Should I re-use my studs or by new ones from dedenbauer?

    Sorry for so many questions I just need feedback so I can get my axels installed. Anything I am forgeting feel free I NEED YOUR OPINIONS... /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif

    oh and good bye to my pathetic 2.73's /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    CK5 /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  2. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    I believe the order most people do these mods is this:

    1. Crossover steering - because GM lifted trucks and flexy terrain leave much to be desired. Your 4" lift might require modifications to your crossmember unless you go with a dropped draglink. I have found in my many different suspension/steering changes, the 2.5" drop draglink works best for all around "changes" made to my rig. Had I sprung for the 4" drop, I would have been screwed when I went to High Steer. You'll need a 2wd steering box or sector shaft changed over to your 4wd box, and a Superlift SUP-1104 pitman arm, drag link, and tierod ends.

    2. Hydro Assist Steering - Most people who install crossover steering experience a "loss of" steering assist from their factory system. This along with larger tires wreaks havoc on your stock pump and non-ram assisted system. Plus, in a lot of cases - you will fight to steer the rig. It could be a combination of things though. We put crossover steering on a truck that has power steering that has well over 150K miles on it. The pump may be worn out - steering gear worn as well, this coupled with new tighter tierod ends installed in the draglink can cause steering that is a little tough to deal with. This is where Hydro Assist steering comes into play. Install the Ram and you have steering.

    Now that you can steer in all offroad situations you find yourself going more places.

    High Steer - Raising that tierod is now of concern because you can wheel with the best of 'em in the big boulders. I bent my 1.5"x.375" wall Tierod and immediately went and purchased High Steer arms from ORD.

    So, consider this - buy your High Steer/Crossover arm by itself if you dont have the budget for both. Buy the beefy arm for the Passenger side from Offroad Design. It will come drilled for Crossover steering (outer hole) and high steer (inner hole). Later, you can purchase the second arm, shorten your tierod to 49" and go with High Steer.

    One backwards thing to consider - I had my ram mounted to my MO-Offroad.com diff cover. I also had a tierod block that was adjustable. When I went to High Steer, the mount for the ram (solid end on the diff cover) had to be modified. So, I would say its user preference in the second two modifications listed above. Had I gone high steer prior to hydro assist, I wouldn't have needed to modify my ram mounts all over again. Of course, had I realised I could have bought a M1008, S-10 Cab and some bigger tires, I would have been way ahead of the game 10 years ago!

    Good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    Some guys need the clearence that comes with hi-steer. There is one main issue to consider with each.

    Low steer = you can smack a tie rod pretty easily.
    Hi steer= Puts all steering stress on the upper king pin/balljoints.

    They make super knuckles now and a rock rods that can help either situation. Also as mentioned above hydro on Hi steer is a little more tricky than with low steer.
     
  4. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    Wait, you man my truck going to be HARDER to steer with crossover? Whys that? What are the chances of breaking a knuckle/kingpin, with hi steer? I had everyhting mapped out, not you guys are makin me think twice!
     
  5. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Wait, you man my truck going to be HARDER to steer with crossover? Whys that?

    <font color="blue">I'm not exactly sure why it is harder but it is. Could be a combination of things. At normal driving speeds it is fine but the slower you go the harder it is to make a tight turn. I had that problem on my Jimmy when I did crossover. It did make a heck of a difference in turning radius though. What would have usually been a 3 point turn was just a quick turn around with crossover.</font>

    What are the chances of breaking a knuckle/kingpin, with hi steer? I had everyhting mapped out, not you guys are makin me think twice!

    <font color="blue">It can happen with either the normal tierod location or hi steer. On normal steering if the tierod does not bend and something has to give it might be the knuckle. On hi steer all the stress is at the top of the knuckle instead of tring to push the whole knuckle. Just the extra stress could cause failure.</font>

    [/ QUOTE ]
     
  6. 81jimmyslt

    81jimmyslt 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the replies guys.

    So I should buy the highsteer arm and just do crossover until I can afford the other arm etc.

    well that solves that... WHERE should I buy my draglink /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif(ORD)?

    Earlier I ment to say will my drag link ends from my stock D60 work with the new arm and drag link from ORD? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Thanks for the replies guys.

    So I should buy the highsteer arm and just do crossover until I can afford the other arm etc.

    <font color="blue">The arm for doing crossover is on the passenger side and you will need a driver side steering arm for doing the hi steer. If you get the ORD crossover arm it will already be drilled for crossover and hi steer and then you will need to buy the driver side arm in the future for hi steer.</font>

    well that solves that... WHERE should I buy my draglink /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif(ORD)?
    <font color="blue">You can buy everything for doing the crossover and the hi steer from ORD. Sky also makes some nice parts. </font>


    Earlier I ment to say will my drag link ends from my stock D60 work with the new arm and drag link from ORD? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif <font color="blue">Just buy everything in a kit form. I don't think the stock drag link ends will work but I have never checked. </font>

    [/ QUOTE ]
     
  8. TXsizeK5

    TXsizeK5 1/2 ton status

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    You can get arms for less than 100 each. You can make your own draglink or buy ORDs as well as the pitman arm.

    I figure high-steer is not needed because if you're going to hit a rock thats going to bend your tie-rod that bad, its going to do some damage whether you have high-steer or not so to me its not worth the strength issues towards the knuckles and the price of another arm.
     

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