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Hilborn EFI

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Z3PR, Oct 23, 2002.

  1. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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  2. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Any opinions ???????
     
  3. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    " Each system is capable of operating "Closed-Loop" making tuning easier."

    Emphasize "capable" in that sentence and you are probably close to the truth. I'm *guessing*, without reading the rest of their page, that unless you buy the add-ons, you'll be running "open loop" anyways, which is about as pointless as swapping a 305 in for a 350.
     
  4. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I don't know anything about open loop, closed loop, ...ect. Could someone explain it to me. What's the difference ???
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Open Loop = Runs on a preset fuel map.
    Closed= Uses a O2 sensor to monitor the fuel mixture and makes real time adjustment for the best possible fuel burn.

    I have exchanged a couple e-mails with this guy. http://www.customefis.com He sells GM TPI or TBI. The TBI starts around $800 but it's a complete closed loop systems with a chip taylored to your engine specs. Really seems to know his stuff. Is page is a little hard to sort through but I think I will be buying his system when I have the cash.
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Grim pretty much got it. Any "kits" you see that say they "offer" closed loop are probably ones to stay away from. They try to suck you in with the "easy install" or whatever claims they want, but really, if you want fuel injection, isn't the goal to have the best running engine possible? You can't have that if you remove components that GM KNEW was necessary, and that they spent millions of dollars researching.

    The factory stuff is NOT complex, and the diagnostics are easy if you get the manual that matches the same year wiring harness. Especially if you stick with the late 80's Camaro setups, since the wiring was quite similar to the trucks.

    I'd stay away from anything that isn't "closed loop" from the get go, to say the least. And on top of that, any of them claiming to work correctly without a vehicle speed sensor, O2 sensor, TPS, etc., are liars. It works, but working and working as intended are two ENTIRELY different things.

    I believe http://www.howell-efi.com/ offers wiring harnesses that do what they are supposed to do. But if you ask me, a new harness isn't really necessary. If you've got money to burn to make sure you don't need to replace any connectors and that you get clean shiny wiring, then by all means go new. But the other components are expensive enough to "add on" to a wiring harness (the intake, distributor, etc) that it makes more sense to get the COMPLETE setup off of a running vehicle.
     
  7. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Thank you for this information. My app was to use it on a pre computer vichile. My K5 is a 76, never had fuel injection, so the Hilborn EFI looked intresting to me. Liked the sound of the stand alone system, thought it would contain everything needed. After reading about closed loop, I think it'd be the best system.
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    The late 80's GM stuff was pretty standalone. I've heard that '87 was even more so than my '88, but not sure what more could be standalone. Vehicle Speed Sensor is one of the sticking points, but the '81-up K5's got VSS with 700's, so thats not a big deal for you to retrofit. Even if it was, there are inline speedo cable VSS setups that aren't that pricey. ($60 IIRC)

    It really *IS* a standalone system, the only fuse panel side stuff necessary are one or two ignition leads, the fuel pump lead, and some 12V power leads for the ECM, injectors, and "emissions" (AIR, Evap, EGR) which may or may not be necessary for you to run depending on if your vehicles get inspected or not.

    If I was in your situation (older fuse panel) and wanted to do the swap, then I'd consider using an auxiallary fuse panel, and just running one 12V wire from the battery to that. Plenty of room above the heater box/behind the glove box for the ECM and another fuse panel. That way you'd be able to keep the power leads on seperate fuses as they should be. (often bundled together in aftermarket wiring harnesses, have fun diagnosing problems there)
     
  9. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color="blue">Here's what Dorian is talking about. This is the fuse block I used to put TPI in my 71

    [​IMG]

    <font color="blue">The big red wire goes to your battery (circuit breaker goes in line), the little pink one goes to an ignition source on your factory fuse block (make sure its on in start /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif) and then all your EFI circuits are powered off of this. It makes using a factory harness very easy
     

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