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Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by LKJR, Jan 11, 2002.

  1. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    Well gettting back on the blazer project after all the holidays settled down a little bit, go the top on it and having a hard time getting holes to line up, I'm missing quite a bit of sheet metal on the passenger floor, rocker panel part of floor etc., to the point that to close the pass door you have to pick it up hard. question is, when I replace all this sheet metal should I just get the top bolted on or should I jack up the body right there and brace it somehow first? Sorry don't have any pics yet will try to get some this weekend if I can. Also the bolts for my top where can I get those? Can a bolt supply order them or do I have to go thru mail order?

    Like em big and topless
    Excuse me...Would you mind removing your import from under my chevy?
     
  2. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    i dont remember anything special about the bolts. a bolt supply should work fine. the one where I live can match anything. You will have to jack up the center under the doors to get the holes to line up right. after you do this you'll need to het some new cabsupports from LMC or someone. i see a lot of people complaining about not being able to get there doors to line up right after they take the top off. the top absorbs the force of the body wanting to sag some in the middle and without it you get problems.hope it helps
    nathan
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Les,

    If you are going to the trouble of restoring the truck by grafting in new metal, you should really make sure that all your body mounts are NEW....most of the issues with sagging doors can be attributed to rotten body mounts.

    Once you are convinced that the mounts are all perfect, you can shim under the mounts to get the door gaps right. The "1967-72 Chevrolet Truck Assembly Manual" does a decent job of explaining which body mounts to add spacers to, to improve the door gaps. Since the factory used that technique I would accept it as a "valid" way to do the fine-tuning once everything is back together.

    If it were me, I'd also probably have the top bolted on during that procedure.....



    -Greg72

    '72 K5 Blazer - 427BB/TH350/NP205/6" Lift/35x12.50's
    <font color=blue>See it here: </font color=blue><a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38</a>
     
  4. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    The bolts that hold the top down are 5/16"-18 thread-point bolts with hex cap heads and integral washers with a polished chrome finish. Not easy to find. I have some cheap hardware store stainless steel bolts holding my top down, but I'm going to buy some ARP bolts with integral washers in their heads to make it look a little more "correct."
     
  5. 1972Blazer

    1972Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I am just now putting my Blazer back together. The windshield/firewall assembly is sprung forward to compensate for the weight of the doors and the lack of a top. You must remove the front fenders, remove the doors, remove the top and replace all body bushing as previously stated. If all is done right, the front fenders should be off by 1/2" from where they mount to the radiator support in the front (front of fenders 1/2" lower then radiator support). This will give you the required spring back in your Windshield/Firewall Assembly to compensate for the weight of the doors and lack of a top.

    1972 Black CST Blazer, 350/415 HP, TH350, NP205, 4" Springs Front/Rear, AGR Variable Ratio Steering, 15X8 Ralley Wheels and 35X12.50 BFG Mud Tires.
     
  6. NuBombs72K5

    NuBombs72K5 1/2 ton status

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    I'm confused. Is it better to install new body mounts with the top on or off. I'm planning on doing the body mounts within the next couple of months and I'd like to do it right. Any input would be appreciated.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albuo30>See My Blazer</a>
     
  7. 1972Blazer

    1972Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    You can do the Body Mounts any time you want, it wont effect doing other tings later.

    1972 Black CST Blazer, 350/415 HP, TH350, NP205, 4" Springs Front/Rear, AGR Variable Ratio Steering, 15X8 Ralley Wheels and 35X12.50 BFG Mud Tires.
     
  8. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    Ok while were on this, should I replace my body mounts before I do my floor? should I remove the front sheet metal when I do the body mounts? How much adjustment is there in that door if it still has to be shut hard once I get the floor welded up? There shouldn't be any problem taking the door off and doing the floor should there? Also anyone have any pics of how those goofy braces inside the rocker box are suppose to be?

    Like em big and topless
    Excuse me...Would you mind removing your import from under my chevy?
     
  9. 1972Blazer

    1972Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    The best thing is to have all the weight that pulls back on the windshield frame/firewall when you weld the floor. You should replace the body mounts before welding the floor. You should replace the body bushings, remove both fenders, remove both doors, measure the distance on an angle from the top of the windshield frame to the lower rear corner of the door opening at the same points on each side of the truck so they are exactly the same (support if necessary), weld the floor, replace the doors and then replace the fenders and adjust all your gaps to be the same. Not saying it is easy, just saying it is the right way to do it. I have been restoring vehicles for almost 20 years and have done alot of convertibles. It is the only way to get everything to line up perfect. using shims and the adjustments in the doors and fenders should be enough after all is done. The braces inside the rocker boxes on my 1972 Blazer go from the upper outside front of the box to the lower inside rear of the box, all inside of course.

    1972 Black CST Blazer, 350/415 HP, TH350, NP205, 4" Springs Front/Rear, AGR Variable Ratio Steering, 15X8 Ralley Wheels and 35X12.50 BFG Mud Tires.
     

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