Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Home made shackle flip

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by WakeBoard&4X4er, Oct 11, 2001.

  1. WakeBoard&4X4er

    WakeBoard&4X4er 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2000
    Posts:
    2,325
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lee's Summit, Mo
    I was thinking about doing a home made shackle flip to get rid of my 4 inch blocks. I was reading the write up from the front page here but I did not see what kind of net lift the guy got. I currenty have 4 inch BDS w/ springs in the front and blocks in the rear. I found some one that with cut my stock rear shackles so that I can do this, but what I would like to know is what net lift I will have in the rear. Thanks!
     
  2. RedDwarf

    RedDwarf 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 9, 2001
    Posts:
    816
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    North Central Florida
    4"

    Still Poundin' "pavment" after all these years!!! [​IMG]
     
  3. mpascino

    mpascino 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2001
    Posts:
    557
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Connecticut
    you will get about 4" of lift out of this. Keep in mind that this does rotate the axle forward slighty so you must take into consdieration driveshaft angles.
    Mike

    You call that dirty!?
     
  4. WakeBoard&4X4er

    WakeBoard&4X4er 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2000
    Posts:
    2,325
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lee's Summit, Mo
    Would i need a shim? os something to change the pitch of the rear axle?
     
  5. mpascino

    mpascino 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2001
    Posts:
    557
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Connecticut
    yes a shim woul dbe in order, or cutting and rewelding the axle perches.
    Mike

    You call that dirty!?
     
  6. arq

    arq 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2001
    Posts:
    2,017
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Imperial Valley/Maricopa
    wait a minute how can you get 4" when you are only lifting the rear shackle by a total of 4", wouldn't that give you a total of 2" in the center of the leaf. That is if you just reverse the hanger with the original shackel.

    It's like puting in a 1" longer hanger in the front leafs, that'll give only 1/2" of lift.

    I think the ORD shackel kit places the shackel eye lower than stock. not sure about this

    ARQ.

    offroad baja!!!
    72 4x4 CST Blazer
    71 4x4 CST Blazer
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/ArqDennis>My Pics</a>
     
  7. laketex

    laketex 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    6,220
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    North Texas
    the original shackle is 4" from center of bolt to center of bolt hole. That gives you 8" in the rear and 4" overall. The ord kit does not drop the eye any further than that, just positions it a little forward to compensate for the shackle angle.


    Sherman, Tx
    <font color=red>The blazer's almost on the road....anyone got tree fiddy?</font color=red>
     
  8. arq

    arq 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2001
    Posts:
    2,017
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Imperial Valley/Maricopa
    that makes more sense, i must of measured the length of the rear hanger/shackel wrong. that means I may have to get a 4" lift in front and in turn bigger tires :-)

    ARQ.

    offroad baja!!!
    72 4x4 CST Blazer
    71 4x4 CST Blazer
    <P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by arq on 10/11/01 12:29 PM.</FONT></P>
     
  9. laketex

    laketex 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    6,220
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    North Texas
    it's always something....and then lower gears, and unbreakable axles, then you'll need a new engine to turn the tires over and a doubler to get your gears right off road...LOL

    Sherman, Tx
    <font color=red>The blazer's almost on the road....anyone got tree fiddy?</font color=red>
     
  10. WakeBoard&4X4er

    WakeBoard&4X4er 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2000
    Posts:
    2,325
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lee's Summit, Mo
    Thanks all!!!!!
    where is a place to get shims?
     
  11. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2000
    Posts:
    3,325
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Federal Way, Washington
    Well I'm going to do the shackle flip... When I do it...
    1-Do I need shims to correct the angle... (the flip will have 4"springs also...)
    2- Will it move the wheel forward or backward at all...
    3- Anyway to strengthen it when it's done...
     
  12. laketex

    laketex 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    6,220
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    North Texas
  13. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2000
    Posts:
    9,090
    Likes Received:
    489
    Location:
    Grand Rapids area
    reddog,
    You will need shims or else a cut and weld. Usually a 3 or 4 degree is good with this, but it will depend on your actual setup. The shackle flip, no matter how you do it, will move the pinion about 8 degrees up from the stock location. Note that lift blocks do not have the pinion at the stock angle. The best thing is to go after it with an angle finder or (gasp) use trigonometry to figure out all of the angles to determine what correction is needed. Or you can just swap shims in and out until it runs good.

    The wheel will move forward slightly, maybe 1/2". This is because the stock suspension has the spring angled (not parallel to the ground) so that the lift block doesn't just move the axle down away from the spring, but also slightly backwards. Of course the center of the axle was always just slightly behind the centering pin because of this, but that effect is magnified with the block. When you flip the shackle, the spring is flat. Counteracting that, you have moved the axle not just straight down, but in an arc around the front spring hanger, which actually tends to put the wheel slightly closer to the back of the vehicle. The first effect dominates and your wheel moves slightly forward. After the flip it will be very close to the center of the rear wheelwell and you shouldn't have any problems with that unless you are running really big meats on a smaller lift. I think that some rigs have the wheels a little rearward of centered with the wheelwell with lift blocks. Keep in mind that as the rear end droops, the wheel will move forward and as it stuffs it will move back a little until the spring is in nuetral arch and then begin to move forward again as you stuff further.

    You can strenghten it by welding some trussing across the top of the shackle bracket, but then you are back to dropping the gas tank. You could also use a stock rear spring front hanger in that case and mount it place of the stock bracket. That would be stronger than a cutout rear bracket.

    Whew, sorry about the novel

    <font color=green>Does a Dyslexic Insomniac Athiest lay awake at night wondering if there's really a Dog?</font color=green>
     
  14. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    My friends use the front spring hanger from a 2wd truck and a lowering shackle from J.C. Whitney. The lowering shackle costs $55. I am going to do this. My friend's have worked out very well.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     

Share This Page