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homemade roll bar

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Taz, Jan 24, 2001.

  1. Taz

    Taz Registered Member

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    I just put my body on the frame, and I am thinking about putting in a roll-bar. at work I have access to 2" dia x .25 wall DOM tubing, is that okay? or should I look for 3" OD?
     
  2. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    The standard roll bars from Smittybuilt and the like are typically 2-inch diameter with a .120 wall. I'm pretty sure that it's also welded seam tubing. The stuff you're talking about sounds like it would be a bear to bend!

    Personally, I wouldn't build my own roll bar. You can buy them cheap enough. The roll bar/cage is one thing that I want to KNOW is going to work if it's ever needed!!! [​IMG] My '75 has the factory roll bar. I bought the Smittybuilt cage kit that welds to the factory bar for $85. I'm not going to bet my life to save 85 bucks.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
     
  3. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    It's plenty. Race cars usualy use smaller in the roof area so they can make tight bends. 2 inch is plenty.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  4. tyler t.

    tyler t. 1/2 ton status

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    2" diameter is fine for a rollbar it really is not the diameter that you need to be concerned with its the thickness of the tubing, ie 2" .25 wall is quite a bit stronger than 3" .125. I hope that the other guy never has to use his rollbar, because I have a set of nerf bars that I bought from Smittybilt and the first time I took my truck out with them on it I bent them up so bad that I could not even open my passenger side door. For some unknown reason people think that because its not made by a big company its not as good, which is a crock of ----. The one thing that he said that I agree with was that is it going to be awfully hard to bend that stuff, you might take it to reputable shop to have them bend it or simply use angles and weld it rather than bend it. Of course if you are not a welder then this too will have to be done by a professional. Although its not a proven fact I tend to believe that you lose some strength in the tubing when you stretch out its walls (bending), making them thinner in certain areas.This only personnal opinion so take it or leave it as you will, although I do have quite a bit of fabrication experience to back me up. Good luck!
    Metalhead
     
  5. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    That is MORE than enough. I would, and am going to, use .120 wall tubing. Remember that DOM is three times the cost, twice as hard to bend, and alot heavier than standard tubing. Our Blazers(76 and above)have a intergrated role bar, so that will take the abuse before the tubing cage will.

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.blazen91.coloradok5.com>http://www.blazen91.coloradok5.com</A>
    Protect the land FOR the people
    Not FROM the people
     
  6. Taz

    Taz Registered Member

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    I am not worrried about bending the bar, the place I work lets you work on your own stuff after hours, so I'll use their machines to bend and weld it . Thanks for the advice
     

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