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homemade sway bar disconnect, installed today, pic

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by rick88blaze, May 10, 2003.

  1. rick88blaze

    rick88blaze 1/2 ton status

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    put them in this morning. cost me about $12 total. i used 2" X 1/4" steel, 3/4" hitch pins, and "R" pins, 3/4" ID galvanized pipe, and 2 4" X 3/4" bolts to bolt it the spring plate. so, what do you think?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I really like it. Thanks for the idea /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    What hole center-to-center dimension did you use?
     
  3. pismorat

    pismorat 1/2 ton status

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    Damn it man, thats my idea!!!!!! I made mine about 4 months ago, turned them on a lathe and welded the side plates on them. Used the same pins and clips, but i welded small d-rings on the pins for easy use. Great job and great idea!!!! Should we patent it?? /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  4. rick88blaze

    rick88blaze 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the compliments! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    By the way, the holes are about 2" apart center to center. If you have any other ??'s just let me know, i'll answer them if i can.
    One more thing, the pipe was free, so was getting the 3/4" holes drilled through the steel plate, It's nice knowing people that work in machine shop. It would probably cost about $20 if I had to buy everything, and pay to get the holes drilled out.
     
  5. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    I do have 2 questions:

    1) How do you set up the 3/4" bolt so that your disconnect can pivot without the bolt being able to work it's way out?

    2) The O.D. of the hitch pin is 3/4"? Is that the same as the I.D. of the bushing in the sway bar? It sure wouldn't work well if that bushing was loose on the pin.
     
  6. rick88blaze

    rick88blaze 1/2 ton status

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    1. my disconnect doesn't pivot. i tightened the bolt down all the way. if it did pivot, the sway bar wouldn't be able to do it's job completely. all i have to do is pull the hitch pin, push the bar up and then tie it to the frame. my lift kit came with brackets like the ORD disconnect has. i just put the hitch pin through the bracket to hold it up. here's a pic of the bracket. i removed the bump stop on the pass. side frame and put the bracket in it's place.
    [​IMG]

    2.yes the bushing has a metal sleeve in it, the sleeves I.D. is 3/4", that's what the bolt size is too.
     
  7. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Actually if the bracket could pivot, the swaybar would be able to do it's job without binding up and affecting the ride. When the bracket can't pivot the swaybar binds up and will make the spring seem stiffer, if it pivots then the sway bar is working as it's intended.

    Swaybars reduce sway through acting as a torsion spring, with a bracket that pivots at both the mount to the spring plate and the mount to the swaybar, the swaybar is free to do it's job without having to deal with the bind. </font>
     
  8. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    with a bracket that pivots at both the mount to the spring plate and the mount to the swaybar, the swaybar is free to do it's job without having to deal with the bind.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    So, how do you explain the way they come from the factory...the swaybar is solidly mounted to the spring plate, so why would it be any different if the disconnects are? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  9. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Sorry, should have clarified. With stock height suspension the factory swaybar design works fine, but when you lift the truck the factory swaybar gemetry goes out the window. The most drop that I've seen for the frame mount is 2", so if you drop that 2" but lift the truck 4 or 6", the swaybar no longer comes to the axle at anywhere near 90 degreees. It has to come down towards the axle, so the while the axle wants to move up and down (for he most part), the swaybar wants to push the axle backwards since the arc that it wants to move in is now more diagonal than vertical. Hard to explain, I can try to draw some pictures if it's needed. </font>
     
  10. rick88blaze

    rick88blaze 1/2 ton status

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    Shaggy, I understand what you are saying. I never thought of that. Do you think that it will still bind it up even though I've only a 2 1/2" lift on? If so, it won't be too hard to pull the brackets back off and get the bottom holes drilled out so that the sleeves will fit through the bracket. That way it will pivot like you say it should. Thanks for the info. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    rick
     
  11. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> With only a 2.5" lift you could probably just put a 2" drop kit on the sway bar and get it back to the way the factory made it. THen again, your brackets look like they move the ends of the swaybar up about 2", so you'll probably be fine anyways. I still think that having the centerlinks that pivot on both ends is a better setup than factory. </font>
     
  12. rick88blaze

    rick88blaze 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the advice. I'll take them off this afternoon, and get them drilled out to fit over the sleeves sometime this week.

    Rick
     
  13. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    No need to draw me any pictures, mind you I'm a mechanical engineering student so I know more than a fair amount about this stuff. I agree that having the assembly pivot would help take out some bind, but the angle change we're talking about here (from no lift, to 4" with disconnects) is so minimal, that solidly mounting is not going to have an adverse effect. I'm currently running my un-modified swaybar on my 4" lift, so either way, having that disconnect in there (solidly mounted or pivoting) would help.
     
  14. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Bind is bad, no matter how minor it might be. I tried driving my truck with a 6" lift with the swaybar mounted to the factory holes in the spring plates and a 2" drop installed on it. It felt like the front springs weren't even moving. I'm not talking flex here, I'm talking driving down the road. I took the swaybar off and it rides great now. So that minor bind that it had most definately affected the suspension. The swaybar was not only acting as a swaybar but as a brace that was keeping the suspension from working correctly.

    This situation isn't nearly as bad, and like I said beofre, with those rigid mounts installed the swaybar is pretty close to factory orientation so it's probably not a big deal.

    Using bolts as pivots is a big no-no IMHO, unless a bushing could be put in there to absorb the shock. Having a metal sleeve riding on a bolt like that will wear the bolt out pretty fast, even if it's a grade 8 bolt. A better way to go would be to fab a link that has heims or sleeves with bushings in them like ORD's disconnects. </font>
     
  15. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Using bolts as pivots is a big no-no IMHO, unless a bushing could be put in there to absorb the shock. Having a metal sleeve riding on a bolt like that will wear the bolt out pretty fast, even if it's a grade 8 bolt. A better way to go would be to fab a link that has heims or sleeves with bushings in them like ORD's disconnects.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Sorry, I deleted what I wrote about that before you posted your reply (I hadn't read Rick's idea to fix it before I wrote that)
     
  16. rick88blaze

    rick88blaze 1/2 ton status

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    so what you guys are saying is that if i leave it alone, i shouldn't have any problems. and that if i drill out the brackets to fit over the pipe i used would be a bad idea? unless i put some kind of cushion in between. maybe this pic can help.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, there are three ways I think one could go about this:

    1) Bottom out a bolt in the spring plate and have washers make up the extra distance from the bolt head to the disconnect. Have it so that the washers apply little-to-no pressure on the disconnect...more or less just "locate" the disconnect where it should be. The downside to this is you're now using a chunk of steel as a pivot point which will lead to wearing down the shaft of the bolt, then you'll have clanking with every movement of the suspension. (This is the idea that I mentioned and deleted earlier that Shaggy commented on).

    2) I think this, Rick, is the idea you had: open up the holes a little bigger, bolt the sleeve solidly to the spring plate, and have the two upright pieces (for lack of a better description) just rotate around the sleeve. Problem here again is the wear...especially on the galvanized pipe (I think that's what you said you used). Again, it will wear down and have slop after some time.

    3) Here's the idea I think would work out best: For the tube that the bolt goes through, use something with a 1" I.D. Then, put two bushings in the ends (your local hardware store should have some nylon flange bearings of various lengths and sizes - they will probably wear quickly, so finding some poly ones would be better - you could also go with bronze, but again that's metal on metal). You'll want a flange bearing with a 1" OD and a 3/4" ID. Put one in each end, bolt it up, and you should be good to go. The tube and "uprights" will pivot on the bushings instead of the bolt.

    You may want to try option #1 or 2 for simplicities sake and see how long things hold up/withstand the wear. I would bet they would last for a decent amount of time for the little amount of twisting action they will see.
     
  18. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I threw together a drawing of #3:

    [​IMG]

    Even with this setup, I think you still may need to bottom out the bolt in the spring plate and use the washer idea, otherwise it may not have very free motion if you really crank down on the bolt.
     
  19. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    What about using NyLock nuts on the bolts and not cranking down on them hard ?
     
  20. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    OOps, never mind....I forgot the bolt threads into the springplate /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
     

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