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How best to remove a D60 spindle Torrington bearing?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BadDog, Mar 28, 2004.

  1. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Well, I finally got around to trying to finish up the repairs on the D60 after the last breakage. The knuckle is definitely bent but appears ok, and I was trying to remove the hosed Torrington spindle (inner) bearing. Unfortunately, the lips of the race are all cracked up and the broke off before getting it out. So, no driving this one out, there is nothing to hold onto. I went to rent a pilot bearing remover, but none would fit this large bearing. Checked Sears too, no luck on any kind of inner bearing/race remover. Anyone got another suggestion? Looks like I may have to make something...
     
  2. BlueBlazer

    BlueBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    The last time I removed one I carefully used a small sharp chisel and once it split through it came right out.
     
  3. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    I went and bought some 1/2" square stock steel and cut a groove in it about 1/2" from the end and knocked off all the sharp edges...It works PERFECT...Knoked 2 out in about 3 min.

    Chris
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Thanks guys, I'm getting old and lazy I guess. Years ago, if I didn't have a tool, I generally just made one, but I lived nearly an hour from the nearest town of any size (with decent tool stores) and had no money. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Now I want "the right tool for the right job" and apparently that has clouded my mind. I made a tool and had it out in less time than it took me to make the first stop looking for a pilot bearing puller type tool. <sigh>

    My version was a piece of 1" x 0.125 round scrap, about 10" long, and with a 45* cut on one end, square on the other. Took another piece of cold roll 1" x 1" x 0.125 strap scrap and welded it on the angled end offset toward the point of the 45*. Then ground the point to a profile that let it slide right into the machined recess and get a full contact patch on the race about 3/8" long, with the edge beveled 45* so it fit right up flush inside the spindle (if that makes sense). Worked beautifully even though the lips of the race were already broken off. This will be going in the pile with all the other little widgets I’ve made that have multiple uses, I can see it coming in handy for lots of stuff where I’ve used drifts, chisels, punches, pry bars, and screw drivers before…

    As for splitting a race like that with a chisel, I thought of that but it was so hard to get too, and the chisel just wanted to slip at that angle, so I abandoned it for "the right tool"...

    FortCollins:
    I’m very interested in your solution, but I don’t understand what you did. Just for my education, can you explain differently so I can understand?

    Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [Edit] Here is a 2D drawing of what I made... Simple but effective. The little edge sticking out is not completely sharp (It's not like a knife, very slight radius, just a few thou) and is rounded so it fits in the contour of the machined recess. Hope that makes more sense.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    I don't know if it is anything like spindle bearings in a 44 or 10 bolt but I used a slide hammer to get the spindle bearing out of my jeep. 3 jaw slide hammer and it popped right out.

    I didn't pay attention to torrington bearing today when I was helping Matt put his D60 together. So I don't have a visual on exactly what you are talking about. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

    Harley
     
  6. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Go find someone that will rent a blind end puller of the appropiate size.
     
  7. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    That's basically what I was trying to do, rent or buy, but nothing available on Sunday evening with everything closing...
     
  8. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    I'll take a pic tonight...You know the recess just above the bearing in the spindle? Well I ground my square stock so to make a recess for the angle that is on the spindle just above the bearing. This way the stock can be more squarley seated on the bearing when I am wacking at it...

    In essense it isw just a relief in the stock to clear the ridge that makes a straght shot at the bearing difficult...

    Chris
     
  9. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Ahhh, sort of what I did, but grinding instead of welding...
     
  10. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Good idea Russ. I'll have to remember that, thanks for posting up /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    EXACTLY /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif

    Chris
     

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