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How difficult?... Wheel bearings and ball joints.

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ErikH, Apr 28, 2002.

  1. ErikH

    ErikH 1/2 ton status

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    Hey guys...

    It seems that the upper and lower ball joints are gettin' a little sloppy on the front axle... And it also seems that the rear wheel bearings are a bit sloppy too. How hard is it to replace the ball joints? How much can I expect to pay for the repair if I don't have the time or tools? Same question for the rear axle... It's all stock with the SMC465 and the 205; C12, D44...

    One more question... It seems that the rear axle shafts slightly slide in/out... I know there might be some play, but how much is too much?

    Thanks for the help in the past, and thanks in advance for your responses.

    Erik
     
  2. JoshA

    JoshA 1/2 ton status

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    I did this job last summer. I'd never done ball joints before, but it was pretty easy. you'll need to get a ball joint tool from a local parts store (most of them rent them for free). also, there is a race(?) for the upper ball joint that you should have a spanner wrench to replace. you can do it without the wrench (pm me and I'll help you with it).

    wheel bearings are also fairly easy but you'll need a special socket to get them out. your local parts store should have one for about $12.
     
  3. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    I just did my ball joints this weekend with the help of . It took most of the weekend but was fairly easy to do, just time consuming. When I was quoted $500 to replace them I figured I'd just do the research and do it myself. You'll need a pair of snap ring plier, hub socket, torque wrench (rated to 200 ft/lbs), ball-joint seperator, and a <a target="_blank" href=http://ww2.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38335>ball-joint press (or take it to a machine shop and have them pressed in and out for you). The special socket that ftn96 refers to that seems to be hard to come by for the externally threaded spacer can be made out of a 3/4 inch spark plug socket. This was for a 10 bolt so I don't know how much of it will pertain to your 12 bolt, but I would still think that it should be similar.
     
  4. ErikH

    ErikH 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the resposes. It looks like a job I can probably do given what you guys have said. I'd really like to avoid spending hundreds on a job that'd take me a weekend. I'll probably have another couple questions the closer I get to actually doin' the repair.
     
  5. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    What did the ball joints cost?
     
  6. bouncytruck

    bouncytruck 1/2 ton status

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    I just tried to remove the driver's side upper ball joint and the thing is so loose inside there that I can't get the nut off. The stud just spins with the nut. Hopefully some of this info might help me out. Good timing. Thanks!
     
  7. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    Take your air chisel and break the nut in half.
     
  8. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    I got my ball joints at Napa and they were about $150 for both sides.
     
  9. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    Or you can take your ball joint seperator and wedge it in there to keep it from spinning. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  10. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I had the same problem on mine...I ended up drilling some holes down thru the nut and breaking it in half w/ a chisle.
     
  11. bouncytruck

    bouncytruck 1/2 ton status

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    Drilling the nut is a good idea. I don't have an air chisel (or an air compressor) so that's not going to work. Good to know that this isn't some freak thing that is only happening to my truck.
     
  12. 79Beast

    79Beast 1/2 ton status

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    All you have to do is put enough pressure on the "stud" part of the ball joint to keep it from spinning. Try turning the wheel full lock and holding it HARD while someone loosens the nut....or use a prybar to keep pressure on it.....or cut the dang thing off because you're gonna replace it anyway.

    As far as the actual job goes...invite a buddy who has done it....take your time, it's easier to replace all the little things while you have it apart. This includes seals, bearings, races (always replace the race when you replace the bearing), possibly axleshaft ujoints and the seals on the stubshaft and the roller bearing inside the spindle...it is Federal Mogul PN SBK1. The rear is a snap...pop of the diff cover....pull cross pin from carrier....push the shaft in enough to remove the c clip...slide out the axle. Use new bearings, seals, and races here too. Do it right the first time and save yourself the hassle of tearing everything down again later. A good shop manual will be helpful....but remember how it all came apart.
     

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