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How do i flush metal shavings out of rear end

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by blazentank, Jun 2, 2002.

  1. blazentank

    blazentank 1/2 ton status

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    I had to get my rear end rebuilt again and there are all of these metal shavings in there how do i get them out we have drained the oil two times since we got it back yesterday and there are still a bunch of metal shavings in there what is the best method to get them out.
    Kyle
     
  2. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    I have a magnet stuck to my cover(on the inside) I collect alot of grit between each oil change. Once a yr or whenever I peel the cover off wheeling.
     
  3. Jed

    Jed Registered Member

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    My 14bFF has a magnet stuck to the bottom of the casting. It collects shavings really well. Since it's right under the ring gear the only way I can get the shavings off that magnet is with another magnet - there's no room to get a hand in there to wipe it well.
     
  4. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    Spray it out really good with brake clean. Use 2-3 cans of it. It will get everything out, and wont destroy the seals. I would recomend pulling the axles, spraying from the ends in, then flush out the center. Thats what I do on all my rebuilds.

    Dan
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Fleet enema available at most pharmacy\'s

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    Pull the cover and get you a couple cans of brake cleaner. Problem is a good bit of it may be in the axle tubes. Might want to pull the c-clips and axle shafts. If you have that much floating around it might be time to pull the carrier and inspect the bearings. Then flush the tubes out. Just pay close attention to where the shims come out and if you don't find any bearing paroblems you should be able to get away with just putting it back toegether the way it came apart and checking the back lash. You see any problems there pull the yoke and pop the pinion out. Again if the beainrgs appear good then you should be able to install a new crush sleave and not need to worry about the pinion depth. The shims for the pinion are under the main bearing and that is pressed on. your pinion depth will stay the same as long as you don't have to replace the bearings.
    You start finding bad bearings I would pull the whole thing apart and clean it out and reset the gears.Also check the wheel bearings. Maybe the sorce for the metal is not in the diff but in the wheel bearings.
     
  6. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Pull the cover and the axles. Check all bearings, try to find the source (obviously). Once the problem is known/corrected, I use a 2 gallon hand pump sprayer like you spray pesticide/herbicide with. Put a gallon or so of diesel fuel in the bucket (I have plenty from my diesel conversion that I couldn’t get rid of), pump it up, and use the wand to flush out the tubes, around the pinion, around/behind the carrier, turn the carrier and pinion while spraying, etc. My D60 got full of water and clabbered oil; and this is very similar to what I did for it. When your done, let it drain/evaporate well (wipe out the bottom as needed), and fill 'er up...

    Both my diffs also have magnets.
     

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