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How do I get this F***in Rim off!!!!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 77blazin, Oct 2, 2002.

  1. 77blazin

    77blazin 1 of a kine K5

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    In part to the restoring of the 78 blazer with nice 35 tires, I've noticed a small nut in the 6 lug pattern on all for rims, guess the last owner didn't want them stolen when he had the lock lugs on them.
    Its one on each rim, well one darn stubborn nut does not want to come off and while using the +, it stripped the bolt, now I have a round bolt that wont let go of the tire, so I need advise, should I chisel out the nut or drill out the bolt or do you guys and gals have another answer except me yelling at this laughing nut?
    I don't want to get /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif so alittle advise would do?
    Michael Wiley
     
  2. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    There's a special socket that can be used to take off rounded lug nuts. Call a local tire shop and ask if they have one that you could borrow or rent. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  3. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Take a 12 point socket that's a hair small and drift it over the remains of the security nut. Use a breaker bar to loosen it up...an impact will just strip it worse.

    I once bought a S-10 Blazer with security lug nuts on it and it did not come with the proper socket to remove them...the 12 point socket driven on with a hammer did the trick.

    Rene
     
  4. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    And if you can't get this tool, I would chizel the nut off or drill the lug, which ever I find easier, because you would want to replace the lug anyway since it was stuck so bad that the lock stripped.
    Personally I replaced all my lugs, cheap insurance.
    IceMan
     
  5. 1bad82k5

    1bad82k5 1/2 ton status

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    If it is a closed lug nut, you may be able to weld an open nut that is slightly bigger on top of it. I have removed broken bolts this way before. Just my thoughts.
    eric
     
  6. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    It never worked for me but I felt better after word... A BIG HAMMER! I like the idea about welding a nut over the lugnut and taking it off that way. I have done the 6point socket and drive it on with a hammer then back it off by hand with a breakover bar. GOOD LUCK
     
  7. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    put the two lugs next to it back on really tight, and then pound a big socket over the stuck one and try to turn. It should work
     
  8. 77blazin

    77blazin 1 of a kine K5

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    K/5 Members
    Thanks for the advice, I will try Rene and Iceman's way first, this is an old fashon open lug nut that you would find under a Buick wheel cover, so I think you know what that looks like.
    If worst comes to worst, the next thing I'll do is chisel it off, but if that fails, then here comes the drill.
    Thats the thing that bothers me when it comes to lugnuts lock so tight on a rim, I can imagine with a "+" bar but to use those Impact lug lockers using pressured air to tighten those lugs on your rims, Do you ever thought that when you get a flat tire, that its a bitch torking those lug-nuts off your flat, yeah it looks easy and its fast at the dealership, but I've tried to take one set of rims off of a Prelude and thats what I got, a torn muscle and a bent "+" bar.
    Thanks Guys & Gals, I will let you know what becomes of the laughing nut.
    Michael Wiley /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  9. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    I did this in the back once by opening the diff cover, removing the C-clip and pulling the wheel, tire, drum and axleshaft out together. Then I just ground the head off the wheel stud and tapped it through.

    It doesn't seem like this would work in the front, though. I know somebody recommended it a while back, but I can't see it working. You could disconnect the hub assembly by removing the wheel bearing nuts, but the disc brake caliper can't be removed with the wheel in place and the backing plate is bolted to the knuckle. Maybe by unbolting the caliper you would have enough play to sneak it out, especially if the wheels are bigger than 15".
     
  10. oatsk5

    oatsk5 1/2 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    u might try a nut cracker you should be able to find one at any hard ware or parts store . /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  11. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    A nut splitter isn't real effective with acorn style lug nuts. You can split the top part off, but the tapered part still sits recessed into the wheel.
     
  12. 77blazin

    77blazin 1 of a kine K5

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    Well I got the rim off (FINALLY) but it took me 3 1/2 holes with 3 1/2 pain staking hours trying not to damage the rim, I used a heavy duty drill with a DeWalt drill bit in 3 sizes, but the bolt is wasted, Can someone illustrate on how to take off the hub so I can have the bolt removed and a new one replace?
    This is a front hub, there is no (Turn to Lock) for the 4X4, it seems to be built in with a chrome cap in its place.
    Please let me know as soon as possible, I bypassed this job to finish the cleaning on the other side, so far the lower front of the truck is looking good.
    Michael
     
  13. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Hit the Zone and pick up 2 things. A 4x4 Hub socket and then under the parts counter is a shop manual. There is a procedure for stuff like this and it is important that you have it correct or you will fry the bearings or loose the wheel.
    It would probably be a good idea to regrease the bearings so pick up some grease and an new wheel seal.
    If you want to get fancy they have a slick wheel bearing grease deal that you use with a Grease gun and makes it real easy to do. It's has two cones that the bearing is sandwiched between and few pumps and your done. Or you can do it by hand but it's a bit more messy.
    Here is thewhat is involved to put in a new wheel stud.
    Remove chrome cap. best way to do this is put the axle on jack stands and remove the wheel.. drive the cap off with a screw driver and hammer. Work you way around it and dont try to drive it off at just one spot or you will damage the cap.
    Remove the brake caliper.
    once the cap is off the stub shaft will be sticking out in the center. you will need a snap ring tool (looks like a set of plyers with pointed tips and no jaws). Once the C-clip is removec a little wiggling and the drive flange will pop out. Be ready for this because there is a sping behind it. The Spring is wider on one end then the other so pay attention to that..
    You will not have acess to the hub nuts. Using the hub nut tool get it engaged on to lock nut by lining up the 4 tabs into the coresponding slots. Using a long wrench press o the socket firmly into the nut while you loosen it. This is fine thread and it will take quite a few turns before it will come off.
    Under the lock nut is the locking ring. you can usualy get your fingers down there and fish it out. It a ring with a bunch of holes in it with a lock tap that engages a slot on the hub.
    Once the lock ring is fished out then you can take the inner hub nut loose. most of the time it's loose enough to simply turn out with the socket.
    Put you had over the open hub to catch the outer bearing that may fall out. pull the hub assembly (Disc and what it attaches too). a Light tug will pop the bearing loose and the outer will fall out or be able to be fished out. The hub assembly is heavy and all cast steel so have a good grip on it. Once the outer bearing is out you can pull the hub assembly off the spindle.
    If you going ot repack the bearings (highly recomend if you unsure of when it was last done) then a screw driver or a seal removal tool will pop the wheel seal loose. fish the bearing out.
    Inspect the bearings and races for pitting. Clean out the grease. Throw in a car and take it to a machine shop (many NAPA's have a machine shop) and have them press out what's left of the stud and press in a new one. If you found bearing damage might as well have them press in the new bearing races whil they have it.
    Take home and install bearings and wheel seal with freash grease. CLean spindle and put a light fil of grease on the surface including where the wheel seal rides. Also put some grease on the wheel seal. Slid hub assembly back on spindle slide in the outer bearings, the cup that the spring rides in and the main hub nut (pin out).
    While spinning the hub torque the nut to 50ftlb to seat the bearings. Back off nut 1/4 turn. While spinning the hub retorque to 35ftlb. Back off 3/8's a turn.
    Now if your lucky the lock ring will line right up with pin on the hub nut. If not try to figure out the closest way to get ht pin engaged.
    Install the lock nut and torque to 80ftlb.
    Reinstall the drive hub and c-clip and cap.
    Done

    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. 77blazin

    77blazin 1 of a kine K5

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    Thanks Grim Reaper, but one more question, should I do both sides instead of one, I mean checking for wear in the hub, I don't want to get another problem while on the road?
    Michael W. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  15. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    I always do both sides when I do anything, unless it's a trail repair.
    IceMan
     
  16. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    I would at least pull the cap and drive flange and check it for contamination. Probably would not be a bad idea to repack if you don't know when it was last serviced. Might even want to pull the hub and let the machine shop turn the rotors and do a brake job at the same time if the rotors are grooved.
     

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