Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

How do I remove this u-joint from the shaft?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BLUESMAN, Oct 31, 2002.

  1. BLUESMAN

    BLUESMAN 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2001
    Posts:
    951
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Phoenix(but it\'s a dry heat...like an oven!)AZ.
    I have a front driveshaft off my 203 case and I can't get the u-joint out.It looks like there are some plastic pins that hold the u-joint to the CV(?).Can I drill them out and then what do I replace them with??Thanks Mike
     
  2. Mr.Chevy4x4

    Mr.Chevy4x4 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2000
    Posts:
    1,932
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sims, NC
    Those "plastic pins" are actually plastic that was forced in there hot to create a lock ring. To get it out you need to heat the yoke with a small torch to melt the plastic out. When it gets hot enough it will start oozing out of the hole. Once you have done this you can press the u-joint out.

    Mike
     
  3. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2001
    Posts:
    2,781
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Mesa, Arizona
    Mr Chevy's right..... Good way to stink up the garage /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif...

    Marv
     
  4. opfor2

    opfor2 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2002
    Posts:
    375
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Ventura County, CA
    What do you use to hold the u-joint in after the plastic is removed ?


    Dan...
     
  5. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

    Joined:
    May 31, 2000
    Posts:
    10,384
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Georgetown, TX
    The new u-joint should come with a spring clip that fits in a groove on the yoke. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif It doesn't take a tremendous amount of heat to remove the factory injected plastic. A propane torch will do the job just fine. You just want enough heat for the plastic to start oozing out of the hole. Then press the joint apart while it's still hot. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. 84K5cedric

    84K5cedric 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2002
    Posts:
    279
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin, TX 78660
    "press the joint out"..... what they mean is, get a BFH and an impact socket about the same diameter as the joint and start a wacken.... or at least that's the method i use as I don't have a press in my garage. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  7. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

    Joined:
    May 31, 2000
    Posts:
    10,384
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Georgetown, TX
    The BFH method works, but I have a small hydraulic press in the garage, as well as the beefy C-clamp type of u-joint and ball joint press from Harbor Freight. Either one makes the process much more elegant. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    6,854
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California (Modesto area)
    One other comment, I had to do this job on my S10 and I metled out the plastic like the guys said but it still wouldn't come out! so I use my cutting torch to get it out. well while torching the joint cought on fire! Ohhhh look at that there are TWO liltle holes for the plastic to ooozzzz out of, no wonder why I couldn't get the dang thing out!
    So in other words make sure you melt out both injection holes, one on each side of the cap!
     
  9. CooknwithGas

    CooknwithGas 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2001
    Posts:
    332
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Istanbul, Turkey
    You will want to pick up a U-joint and ball joint press because it also helps you put it all back together. The hammer method makes it hard to keep the bearings in while installing the new u-joints. A C-clamp has that little swivel thing on the end that makes it hard to keep everything in-line. Check out Harbor Freight:

    http://www.harborfreightusa.com/Displayitem_retail.taf?itemnumber=38335

    Good luck.
     
  10. 87sm465np208

    87sm465np208 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2002
    Posts:
    1,114
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    illinois
    when we did my U-joints in my truck since they were grateing, and the front wheel joints had lost all of the needle bearings and grease /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif, we used our vice and some sockets, works great /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif, i use the vice as my press in some cases. but just remember to take that clip out, i heard about one guy who forgot to and put extrimely high pressure on a press to press out the u-joint, and bent somthing /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif, good luck.
     
  11. BLUESMAN

    BLUESMAN 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2001
    Posts:
    951
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Phoenix(but it\'s a dry heat...like an oven!)AZ.
    Thanks for the tip about the torch!!I was going to drill them out,but the torch sounds better.When I remove the u-joint are there going to be grooves for the new u joint to clip into?I've replaced alot of u joints,but this one had me wondering!!Socket and a BF Hammer always worked for me.
     
  12. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2001
    Posts:
    4,606
    Likes Received:
    0
    a cutting torch is way hotter then you need...
    go with plumbers propane torch
     
  13. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2001
    Posts:
    2,563
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Los Angeles, California
    Harry - did you get the 3 in 1 service kit from Harbor Freight? I've seen different ones in their catalog and don't know which one has the right sized parts.
     
  14. 87sm465np208

    87sm465np208 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2002
    Posts:
    1,114
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    illinois
    i use the socket method for removeing, i use the vice for installing, somtimes they pop in there good too., and install yur lock rings, inner or outer, i had to install a new u-joint on the rear of my shaft on my truck to be compatable with my new 12 bolt, i just hammered the old one out, pressed the new one in, of corse you can hammer the new one in there too, but i prefer the press\vice method for installation. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif.

    /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  15. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

    Joined:
    May 31, 2000
    Posts:
    10,384
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Georgetown, TX
    Howdy Pam! Yes, I bought the 3-in-1 kit that CookinWithGas provided a link to. They have another kit that looks like it would bend pretty easy. The kit listed above is majorly heavy duty. It's often on sale for much less than the $39.99 price. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  16. k5blazerus

    k5blazerus 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2001
    Posts:
    654
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bend, OR
    I neat u-joint tool from northern tools. Its called the tiger tool and make's short work on u-joints.
    Colin
     
  17. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2001
    Posts:
    2,563
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Los Angeles, California
    Thanks Harry. (Howdy to you too!) /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     

Share This Page