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how do i wire these?

Discussion in 'Audio' started by bigbadchev84, Oct 1, 2006.

  1. bigbadchev84

    bigbadchev84 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 4ohm amp and these subs that are 2ohm or 8ohm dvcs they are 10" Orion xtr3s i have them in a bandpass box and they are bridged with the +s wired together and the -s wired together they hit decent down low, but when i go to turn it up 1/2way the amp starts to cut out i have tried 3 different amps with the same thing. im sure i have them wired wrong. any ideas?

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  2. tuffdogstudio

    tuffdogstudio 1/2 ton status

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    Need more info about your amp, monoblock, 2-channel, 4-channel? Make and model of amp would be helpful too. Problem here is the only way I see right away to get a 4ohm load is to wire them series/parallel and that would yield one channel? Or, run a 4-channel amp with one channel per speaker lead?

    Stereo gurus are you out there?
     
  3. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I usely try too buy amps that are atleast 1 ohm stable. That way I have more wiring options.
     
  4. chevyin

    chevyin 1/2 ton status

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    Generally you have one impedance you want to run your amp at: its lowest possible (max output). If you buy an amp stable to 1ohm but then hook a 2 or 4 ohm load to it, you are only using a fraction of the amp's capable output. If you really want a versatile amp that can handle multiple loads (suggested by Z), then buy a JL amp (can't believe Im recommending JL) because they have a steady output within a range of impedances (2ohm-8ohm iirc). Basically what Im getting at is buying a 1ohm stable amp doesn't necessarily give you more wiring options than a 2 or 4ohm stable amp. Wiring flexibility generally comes in the multiple voice coil subwoofers, not the amplifier.

    bigbadchevy84, you haven't given us enough information. For example, telling your subs are either 2ohm or 8ohm dvc doesn't really help. Do you not know their impedance, or are you saying they are 4ohmDVC's, which can be wired to either 2ohms or 8ohms...?

    If the subs are 4ohm DVC and your amp is stable to 4ohms, you are good to go. Wire the coils from each speaker together in series to receive an 8ohm load from each speaker, then wire the two speakers together in parallel to bring the impedance back down to 4ohms. Viola, 4ohm mono.

    There's a ton of diagrams how to parallel/series speakers together on the net, just google it.
     
  5. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I haven't researched the JL Amps, but if I was going too buy a new amp, I'd take a long hard look at the amps from Hifonics. For a sub, I'd look at thier "Brutus" line. You can get smoking deals on new in the box Brutus amps on Ebay.
     
  6. chevyin

    chevyin 1/2 ton status

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    From the tests Ive seen, the new Brutus line is a bit overrated (less power than specced) and the power supplies are a bit weak, but they are still a pretty good deal imo.

    I just remembered, the older PG Tantrum amps have an impedance range they will operate in (max output), they are very nicely built (much better than the Brutus amps) and can be had used for about the same money. If I were looking for such an amp, Id look serious at the Tantrums. oh wait, I did, and bought two. :D
     
  7. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I hadn't heard that about the Hifonics. Phoenix Gold are very good, I've alway like PG.
     
  8. chevyin

    chevyin 1/2 ton status

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    Im not really trying to badmouth the Hifonics. Even being overrated, they still are a very good $/watt ratio and many people seem to have good experience with using them. For someone just getting into a high powered substage, its a good 'starter' amp. You could always upgrade later if you want. I think I bought some quality amps too, but Id still love to upgrade to a pair of TRU Technologies SH1 Sledgehammers. There;s always something better.

    And lets face it, most people's charging systems aren't capable of delivering the amperage necessary for a true 1500 watts. Unless you've done some upgrading in that area, the only time your system does 1500 watts is when you are bragging to your buddies. ;)
     
  9. tuffdogstudio

    tuffdogstudio 1/2 ton status

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    Not to mention the hearing damage done with a 1500 watt system... man, I must be gettin old, because its gettin too loud :doah:
     
  10. chevyin

    chevyin 1/2 ton status

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    I consider a 1500watt substage as average these days, well prolly not average but certainly nothing special. The main system Im building will run about 3kwts RMS to the 2 subs, and even that isn't huge.
     
  11. tuffdogstudio

    tuffdogstudio 1/2 ton status

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    Like I said... hearing damage :wink1:
     
  12. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I rarely crank it up anymore, well, occationally. My electrical system is still stock. I don't take the volume over "14" and that is pleanty loud for me. On the rare occation I do crank it up, I noticed the headlights dim with heavy bass at about "16".
     
  13. chevyin

    chevyin 1/2 ton status

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    You should consider at least upgrading your big 3 wires Z. It usually helps a stock system alot. :)
     
  14. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    big 3 wires ??? Maybe it's because I just woke up, but I'm drawing a blank on that.
     
  15. chevyin

    chevyin 1/2 ton status

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    Its the stock wiring under your hood. The 'big 3' is the alternator positive to battery positive cable, battery negative to chassis cable, and the engine ground to chassis cable.

    Upgrading these will help even a stock system work more efficiently. The stock charging system wasn't designed with the intention of running fairly large aftermarket stereo systems, the cables were sized apropriate to the stock needs. Upgrading the big 3 cables will lower your stock system's resistance, allowing even a stock alt and batt to work more efficiently. When upgrading a vehicle's charging system, this should be the very first thing that is done. The reason its called the 'big 3' is due to its importance in being upgraded.

    And unless your current draw is grossly more than your alternator's supply capabilities, upgrading the big 3 will also likely improve your dimming light problem. The dimming is occuring due to rapid changes in system voltage in your car/truck. Upgrading the big 3 should improve those rapid voltage dips.

    Some people actually replace those 3 wires with newer larger versions. But most people just run the newer and bigger wire along side the stock ones (use both). Its up to you which you'd prefer, but I recommend doing one of the methods. Its relatively cheap, its relatively easy, and it improves your charging system whether its stock or heavily modified. Lemme know if you have any questions.
     

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