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how do you determine if your engine only needs a ring job???

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by solowookie, Sep 24, 2001.

  1. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    ok guys,

    I know that an engine is also suppose to be honed, but I'm also hoping that I can get away with just doing a ring job on Insane Ewok...

    How will I determine if the engine needs machined or not once I get it torn apart???

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  2. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>Dont waste your time just doing rings. The cylinder wall needs to have a cross-hatch pattern machined into it to hold oil while the rings break in. If you put new rings in your smooth cylinder walls, they wont have enough oil for break in and wont last.
     
  3. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    What kind of problem are you having? Is it smoking? Low on compression?
    You have to take measurements of the inside diam of the cylinders. If it's within spec you might be able to get away with running a hone through it to get a good surface for new rings. However this will not get you a motor that will run a 100k. you will be lucky to get another 50k. If you can feel a lip at the top then don't even bother. Get it machined or get a rebuilt block.
    If your compression tests good then the rings are probably ok. Now even if it doesn't test good it may not be rings it may be valve problems. If you take the srader valve out of the compression tester and get it on TDC and presurize each cylinder and find out where the air is excaping. If you heat air in the oil fill then it's rings. Carb is intake valves, exhast pipe exhaust valve.
    Fact of the mater is if the motor is done and it's a pre 87 the Crate motor is the way to go. $1300 and you got a NEW motor with NEW heads with a 50k warranty. Machine work, Pistons, bearings, cam, seal, valve job add up quick. you will spend a easy $800-900 getting your block redone with no warranty.

    I don't need no damn shop manual, I got a pornographic memory.
    <a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s>communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s</a>
    75 Jimmy, Dollar
    Grim-Reaper
     
  4. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    well I know I got a bad head, but I tested the compression on the side of the block that doesn't have a head problem. the compression was running between 80-90 on those 4 cylenders, and I didn't even bother to check the other side.

    what happened is that I blew a hole in one of my oil cooler lines, and it ran all the oil out... [​IMG][​IMG]

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    well the cylinder is oiled by oil slinging off the crank after it goes past the bearings in the mains and the rod. The cylinders are probably not damaged by the loss of oil pressure. What problems they had were previous the oil problem. Your low compression is probably a combination of valves and rings.
    The low oil will wipe out crank and cam but unless it was run for a LONG time it would not have take out the rings. For what it would cost to go through it you probably cheaper buying a cheap long block for sure and playing stupid with your bad motor as a core. bolt the heads back on before you bring it in if they are off. The crate get's you all new and no core needed.

    I don't need no damn shop manual, I got a pornographic memory.
    <a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s>communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s</a>
    75 Jimmy, Dollar
    Grim-Reaper
     
  6. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    It sounds like you need a complete rebuild.
    Dont just slap a set of rings in it. It is a total waste of time and money. With compression that low it will proabablly need to be bored. And if you ran it out of oil the cam and crank may be in bad shape.
    Beings you also have bad heads the cheapest way to go may be looking into a long block from a parts store or a crate engine.



    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Thunders-Blaze>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Thunders-Blaze</a>
    <font color=blue>NEVADA: Where the pavement ends, and the West begins.</font color=blue>
     
  7. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    well I got a spare set of heads sitting around here so I am probably going to just do a short block if it comes to that.

    I got a stock set of heads completely rebuilt from Mike... they are in really good shape, and already painted chevy orange!

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  8. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    I'd just do the short block. Even if you got away w/ a hone job it would still cost money to cook her and do the cam bearings... add in the rebuild kit and it just isn't worth the time when you can get a warrantied short block for the same money and no time or worries.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
     

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