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How do you get light wires into your cab?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by txbartman, Jun 20, 2001.

  1. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    I am going to be mounting 8 offroad lights on my new Conn-Ferr rack. I am debating the best way to get all the necessary wires into the cab. My top comes off rarely, but, if it does, the rack (incl. lights) will be off too. I am favoring drilling a hole through the top for the wires and sealing it very well with silicone. Then, developing a plug or a bunch of bullet connectors so that I can "unplug" from the cab wiring if I do remove it. If you have offroad lights somewhere other than your grille, how do you route your wires?

    85 GMC Jimmy, 305 w/TH700-NP208, 32X11.5 BFG ATs, 15x10 Eagles, Smittybuilt tube nerf bars and bumbers
     
  2. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Yeah that is about the only way to do it is through the roof. That's how it is done on service vehicles like cop cars and fire trucks. Radio shack sells modular connectors pretty cheap. just make sure you get one with a high enough amperage to handle the load.

    It's not my damn planet monkey boy!
    Grim-Reaper
     
  3. newyorkin

    newyorkin 1 ton status

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    Are you powering these lights in different circuits? I have 4 lights on my rack on top of my truck, but tapped them all into 1 10-guage lead, all tucked up nicely into the bar (I swear not one wire is visible until you walk right up and look for it). It runs over the window frame right at the rack's mounting point, under the door weather stripping, under the dash to the switch (in the former ashtray slot). I was going to do what you're considering, but had to get the rack on in a hurry, so didn't like what I'd imagined the rush job version to look like. Now, I'm pretty satisfied leaving it the way it is and not bothering to cut or drill the roof.


    Ratch
    **<A target="_blank" HREF=http://k5.8m.com>http://k5.8m.com</A> What more is there to life?**
     
  4. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    I haven't installed them yet, but they will be controlled by 4 different switches. Of the lights, I will have 2 5x7 ProComp 100's facing forward on the outer front edge of the rack. In the middle facing forward will be two 6" round ProComp 130's. I will mount a pair of ProComp 55's for side lights (one on each side) and another pair on the back of the rack for reverse lights. I already have 2 5x7 ProComp 100's on my tube bumper. I want ever pair controlled individually. So, I believe that means I will have many wires coming down from my rack. I am actually going to be removing my radio from the dash and putting a switch panel for all the lights in its place.

    85 GMC Jimmy, 305 w/TH700-NP208, 32X11.5 BFG ATs, 15x10 Eagles, Smittybuilt tube nerf bars and bumbers
     
  5. newyorkin

    newyorkin 1 ton status

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    Wow, that rack sounds pretty cool. I'd go with the hole in the roof with some grommets and silicon. Maybe go hit a junkyard or auto parts store for the multi-prong weather proof connectors (like the O2 sensor wire connector).

    Good luck!

    Ratch
    **<A target="_blank" HREF=http://k5.8m.com>http://k5.8m.com</A> What more is there to life?**
     
  6. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    Scrounge the boneyards and get a 85-up GM WeatherPak connector. For running through the roof, you could run a section of multi conductor cable through a bulkhead fitting - they seal great, and look clean too.

    I'm so poor I can't even pay attention [​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://pugsley.alloffroad.com>http://pugsley.alloffroad.com</A>
     
  7. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    If ya wanna get really cool, check out how they feed the power to the rear window defroster on a late model Suburban with barn doors. You could use those connectors to feed the power between the cab body and the roof. It would automagically disconnect when you remove the top, without having to mess with wires. [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</A>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  8. Confederate9

    Confederate9 1/2 ton status

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    i got 4 kc lights on my lightbar, i went throught where the top meets the cab, no leaks and no drilling

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://confederate9.coloradok5.com/>http://confederate9.coloradok5.com/</A>
    <font color=red>K5: Because size DOES matter</font color=red>
     
  9. Storm Trooper

    Storm Trooper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I have 5-100watter on top of mine. The moron that had it before me did a crap job. I had to rewire it all to clean it up.
    I would sugest mounting them on the cab, that way you still have them when your topless. The top of the cab has two layers with about a 3/4" gap between them. If you drill (I know it's tough) through the top layer, remove your inside light and top, then drill a hole in the center section where the seal is, you should be able to feed the wires through the roof (directly under the bar to the other hole using the light hole to help. Then you can run the wires down the inside of the seal, put a little silicone to hold them in place and to the dash. I made a switch box for under the ashtray so I didn't have to mount them in the dash (8 switches). I wish I had a picture to show you. I made it out of 2x2 alum. angle, doubled in the front with peices to fill in the sides (back stayed open). Drilled all the holes and used Mothers mag polish to shine it up like chrome. It works great, didn't need relays but I did use a #1 batt. cable to the inside, hooked it up to a Radio Shack big gold fuse terminal then hooked up all the wires. It came out nice. Just thought I would give you my .02 on how I did it.

    [​IMG]<font color=red>[/b]"Rid'in HigH in my K5"[​IMG]
    ....[​IMG]<font color=blue>[/b]"6" Lift -<font color=purple>38.5's"[​IMG]....
     

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