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How easy is it to replace your wheel bearings?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by _DeeVee8_, May 14, 2000.

  1. _DeeVee8_

    _DeeVee8_ 1/2 ton status

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    I have removed the wheels for my easy $14.00 front brake pad replacement job and noticed on one wheel that the rotor , when turned slowly, that it moves like it was with some hesitation. Like it was an electric motor that got hung up when the polarity on each of the magnets as you rotated it. its the right front wheel---this also sticks out from the side like the vehicle was in an accident-- but it wasn't. I'm not a speed freak on the roads and slow and conservative is the way I travel most(especially while turning 35"s)

    what tools do you need to replace bearings and who quickly is the process?
    I think it's the bearings that need tweakage to fix --not sure-- but just wanna be safe anyways....

    please-- all comments/ insults welcome

    -your Humble Journeyman who will never make Member status until he breaks something that cost over $3,000.00 to fix....

    "The one who blows their horn the loudest, is usually in the thickest fog".-- [​IMG]
     
  2. Brady

    Brady 1/2 ton status

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    It is not that hard to replace the bearings.You will need a chevy hub socket like $16 at napa.Pull the wheel,remove the lockout hub or drive flange,now take the special socket and remove the first wheel nut,then remove the lock washer and remove the second nut.the rotor will come off now,flip the rotor over,remove the seal the inner bearings will come out now.the outer bearings need to be kock out from the lug side in.Pack the new bearings with a good high temp grease water proof is the best.now reverse the process.put the rotor on the spindle and put the insid nut on(It has the little knob on it) tighten untill the rotor spins freely with no movement sid to side or up and down.now put the lock washer on you need to make sure you put this on right and locks the inner nut from spinning.This will take a couple of tries.Just don't over tighten the bearings.now put the outer nut on and replace the hub or drive flange and replace the wheel and your done.Oh yeah you need to remove the and replace the caliper also.Brady
     
  3. slodawg

    slodawg 1/2 ton status

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    Brady described it pretty good. Its not hard to do just a little time consuming. A good chilton's manual will help you out if you have never done this before it will also have all the torque values you will need(after a few times of changing them you can guesstamate the torque.). If your running 35's you probably need to learn how to do this. Big tires are very hard on wheel bearings especially if you go through alot of mud or sand. I chang mine twice a year wether they need it or not.I run 40's. It's a little chaep insurance on my wheels.
    SLODAWG....AINT NO FEELIN LIKE K5 MOBILIN
     
  4. Blazer79

    Blazer79 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Brady: That description is great. I think I'll try it myself too and spend the $16 on the socket instead of a mechanic.

    Just one question. I live where there are no NAPAs or stuff like that. What kind of socket is the chevy hub one? Is it just an oversized socket or does it have anything special? Do you know what size should I ask to a normal guy-in-the-counter?

    Thanks.

    <font color=black>//////
    What the heck!...Drive it like gas is $0.50/gal!!!
    </font color=black>[​IMG]
     
  5. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    The hub socket basically has four "fingers" in a circular pattern that match with 4 grooves in the nut, so it really doesn't look like a regular socket. I know the local Advance Auto and Autozone carry the sockets.
    The job isn't hard, but it can take a little time especially the first time you do it. You might also want access to a torque wrench to get the proper torque on the nuts.
     
  6. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

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    Water proof grease.......... never heard of this stuff. Could you please post a part #, or model and brand
    name ?
    What about race(s), or if you prefer cups and cones ?
    Also about your tighten of the inside nut, could there be a torque spec. to follow ?
     
  7. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    All of these descriptions are pretty accurate, i've learned that to get the inboard bearing off you remove the outer first then replace the rotor, put the spindle nut BACK on a few turns and the yank the rotor off again. it'll pull the bearing right out. You want want to preload the inner nut when you replace it, then put on the lock washer and mash down the outer spindle nut. I noticed a wobble in my front end a few weeks ago, when i remove the locking hub the outer nut fell out and the inner was loose. good luck!

    jim
     
  8. chaka73

    chaka73 1/2 ton status

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    If it's the first time you do it you will get kinda confused but just put everything back the same way you get it out, I did mine two weeks ago and at first I did get kinda confused but like I said put everything back the same way they come out and make sure you grease those things really really good, good luck and if you need any help just ask, you learn alot of things when you start doing them yourself, now I know how to do breaks front ones only, bearings, shocks, knuckles(if that's how you spell it), seats, just about anything, I dont mess with the motor at all but you do learn alot from your rig, good luck buddy.

    LOVE MY GREEN GIANT!!!
     
  9. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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    From the Chilton's Manual....wheel bearing assembly and torque specs...

    <font color=green>[​IMG]Eagle86K5[​IMG]<font color=red>
    Masonry...It's a Good Thing
    2B1ASK1
     
  10. Brady

    Brady 1/2 ton status

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    Cool eagle that's easier than explaining.I did forget about the races though.OOps!I use the tighten and spin method,works for me.I use Marine grease from quaker state.It is full synthetic high performance for bearings.I get it from wallmart.Brady
     

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