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How hard/easy is it to replace front wheel bearings?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BigTex, Jan 30, 2001.

  1. BigTex

    BigTex 1/2 ton status

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    Hey guys. I will be changing the front wheel bearings on my '79 this weekend and since this will be the first time I do this, I wanted to get your input on how hard/easy it is to change them. They are on a GM 10 bolt. Other than the inner/outer bearings and seals, do I have to change anything else? Any pointers other than using the proper tools? Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    It will be a lot easier on you if you go to Auto Zone or a parts store and get the specific socket for the spindle nuts.
    Also, I found that if you go to Sears or a Snap-on place and get some of those screwdriver looking things with the bent points on the end. I belive Snap-on refers to them as Brake tools. These will aid in getting the larger lock-out snap ring off..

    Other than that, is is a simple unbolt and disassemble, then re assemble.
    While your in there it would be a good opportunity to change you brake pads or u-joints if need be.

    And one more thing.. :) There is a bearing inside the spindle hubthat will probably need changing. They are usually around $10 per side and I am not sure of the technical name for them. They go inside the spindle hub and the axle shaft goes through them, I believe there maybe a little seal that comes with them also.

    If ya have anymore questions, drop me a line.

    Mike [​IMG]
    See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -&gt; <A target="_blank" HREF=http://emmett.coloradok5.com>http://emmett.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  3. _DeeVee8_

    _DeeVee8_ 1/2 ton status

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    It is not that hard to replace the bearings.You will need a chevy hub socket like $16 at napa.The hub socket basically has four "fingers" in a circular pattern that match with 4 grooves in the nut, so it really doesn't look like a
    regular socket. I know the local Advance Auto and Autozone carry the sockets.
    The job isn't hard, but it can take a little time especially the first time you do it. You might also want access to a torque wrench to get the proper torque on the nuts.

    Pull the wheel,remove the lockout hub
    or drive flange,now take the special socket and remove the first wheel nut,then remove the lock washer and remove the second nut.the rotor will come off now,flip the rotor over,remove the seal the inner bearings will come out now.the outer bearings need to be kock out from the lug side in.Pack the new bearings with a good high temp grease water proof is the best.now reverse the process.put the rotor on the spindle and put the insid nut on(It has the little knob on it) tighten untill the rotor spins freely with no
    movement sid to side or up and down.now put the lock washer on you need to make sure you put this on right and locks the inner nut from spinning.This will take a couple of tries.Just don't over tighten the bearings.now put the outer nut on and replace the hub or drive flange and replace the wheel and your done.Oh yeah you need to remove the and replace the caliper also.
     
  4. RUSS84K5

    RUSS84K5 1/2 ton status

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    It's pretty easy. The outter just comes out when you take the wheel nuts off. then with the hub off, tear out the seal for the inner and it sould just fall out. The races are the only real work involved. A 6-8 inch narrow chisel and a hammer are used to knock them out, you should be able to find channels in the inside of the hub that are ment for this. To put the new ones in I'v always used the old race on top of the new one to pound it in. then remove the old race just like you did the first time. You might want to take the spindle off and replace the small bearing inside that supports the stub shaft. Peaple often overlook that one. You may need a small 2 jaw puller and a 1/2 x 3 inch pieace of steel to take it out and the corract size pieace of wood to tap it back in. I like to use never sieze on everthing. Aslo make sure to grease the bearings, I like the needle attachment. The cup type seems to just make a big mess and wastes alot of grease.
    Hope this helps.
    Russ V
     
  5. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    Torque wrench. Replace the spindle roller bearing and seals.. You'll have to pull the spindle to get to them. Repack them good. Here's some torque values for the 79: Spindle nuts - 33 ft lbs. Inner axle nut, , torque to 50 ft lbs, then rotate the hub several times, then retorque. Do this several times until the torque stays at 50 ft lbs. Then back off a half turn and retorque to 35 ft lbs. Rotate hub and retorque until it stays at 35 ft lbs. Then back off no more than 3/8 of a turn and put the lock spacer on (I found that 1/4 turn works best). If you can't match one of the holes on the lock spacer with the pin on the lock nut, try flipping the spacer over. After the spacer is in place, torque the outer nut to 80 ft lbs. Good luck, just did this last weekend when I replace the front ring and pinion.
     
  6. BigTex

    BigTex 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks a whole lot guys. I really appreciate all your input. I'll keep you guys in mind in case I make a mess and need more help!
     
  7. BigTex

    BigTex 1/2 ton status

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    I just saw another thread where some of you were having problems with the Warn Premium Hubs. That's what I have on mine. Anyone think I'll have problems putting these back on while changing bearings?
     
  8. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    No you shouldn't have any problems with the hub, as long as you use all the same stuff that came out of it.

    Will work for parts, beer and sex.
    90 Jimi,350/700R4/241/10bolts/3.73's/33's/4"
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com>http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com</A>
     

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