Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

How hard is it to rebuild a diff. on a 91 K5?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Piranha300, Jul 21, 2001.

  1. Piranha300

    Piranha300 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2001
    Posts:
    45
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Nebraska
    Mine is making a howling noise around 60 mph? Is there an oil treatment I can use to cover this up also? Thanks
     
  2. bigblue

    bigblue 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2000
    Posts:
    658
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    southern california
    I would focus on getting a 14 bolt. Don't waste your time or money on the 10 bolt. just my opinion.
     
  3. Blazer79

    Blazer79 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,816
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Guatemala, Central America
    It's pretty involved. Adjusting ring & pinion is one of the tasks a shadetree mechanic leaves to the expert. You must assemble, measure, disassemble, adjust, star over again. A typical shadetree would do this cycle several times, while an expert would do it the first or second attempt. Also a shadetree would easily say "It's almost there, so I'll leave it like that" which would lead to the destruction of your new ring & pinion.

    The 10 bolts are the weakest axles of all, so, as bigblue suggested, why spend the time and money in a 10 bolt, if you can get a 14 bolt or at least a 12 bolt from a junkyard in good condition.

    <font color=purple>//////
    <a target="_blank" href=http://blazer79.freeyellow.com>blazer79.freeyellow.com</a></font color=purple><font color=black>
    Soon a 454 K5!!</font color=black>
    [​IMG]
     
  4. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2001
    Posts:
    1,975
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    Here's my opinion for what its worth...

    It seems that a lot of people on here say get rid of your 10 bolts for a 12 or 14 without knowing anyhting about you or how you use your 4x4. If your 4x4 is a daily driver and occasional offroader, I would stick with your 10 bolts. And I would find a reputable shop to get in there and fix it for you. If you are a hard offroader or a serious rock crawler, then you may want to go with a bigger axle. Getting one from a junkyard may not always be more cost effective. You don't know what kind of shape it is in or what damage has been done to it. So you may have to get a new axle AND still pay for a diff rebuild. In addition, you may end up having to go to 8 lugs which would mean new wheels. And don't forget that a 14-bolt is bigger with less ground clearance on your same wheels than your current 10-bolt.

    I think too many people get caught up in having all the biggest and most powerful parts, and they don't pay any attention to how the 4x4 is used and whether or not its needed. I mean, while you're at it, go get a 500 HP engine, too. I mean everyone must need more HP, right? Who cares if HP breaks more parts than anythng else. Who cares if it is a daily driver or not. Who cares about fuel economy.

    Look at how you use your 4x4 before you decide if you need a different axle. But, if all you want is a rear-end rebuild, find a reputable shop and pay the money for them to do it. You don't wnat to be stuck somewhere, whether it is at work, on the highway, or 20 miles offroad, with a busted diff. No matter what size axle.

    Just my .02

    Brian

    85 GMC Jimmy <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com</a>
     
  5. bigblue

    bigblue 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2000
    Posts:
    658
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    southern california
    Well I still think go ahead and get the 14, but really it might not even be this guys problem. We need to know a little bit more about what is going on with his rig.
    <P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by bigblue on 07/21/01 10:39 AM.</FONT></P>
     
  6. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2001
    Posts:
    32,076
    Likes Received:
    55
    Location:
    .
    I agree with tx85gmcguy!!! [​IMG]

    Too many people think bigger is better when bigger can mean more $$$$, both in parts and at the fuel pump.

    For those of you who do highway driving more than anything else and no hardcore stuff, stick with a modified 10 or 12 bolt. You can get aftermarket axle shafts that are stronger than stock. Invest in a posi-traction device of some kind. Take it somewhere and have it properly rebuilt and you will have a 'brand new' axle for less than the cost of a FF. And its good for another X amount of miles.

    <font color=blue>Daddy told me while learning to pee......"if you shake it more than twice, then you are playing with it!!!"</font color=blue>
     
  7. bigblue

    bigblue 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2000
    Posts:
    658
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    southern california
    OK, I totally disagree. I drove my truck on the street for two years. The first time I take it off road I blow the ring gear. Now I will take 1 or 2 miles to the gallon less to NEVER have that happen again. The 10 bolt is trash. You all have to believe that. For the amount of money you will spend on the 10 bolt gear fix you can have a BRAND NEW 14 bolt with 4.56's. Why do you own a blazer? Even if you drive all the time on the street you will be towing something eventually. 14 bolt = cheap, strong, well worth the added wieght.
     
  8. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2001
    Posts:
    1,975
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    To each their own. I have had my 85 Jimmy for 8 years. I have put over 100,000 miles on the road on it. I have used it extensively to tow a 4,000 pound boat (with a 305 nonetheless), I have had it offroad quite a bit but have never abused it. I have yet to have a problem with my 10-bolts. Several other very reputeable and knowledgeable members of this site ran 10-bolts for many years without incident. I am about to spend well over $1000 to put front and rear lockers and 4.56 gears in my 10-bolts and I don't have the slightest concern.

    And, BTW, blazers are great off-road vehicles. But, that's not the only reason to buy one. If you want full-size interior space, ability to tow a heavy trailer, and a vehicle that is short enough to fit in a garage or normal parking spot, it also can't be beat. That's why I originally bought mine. Not to conquer the Sierra's.

    To each their own.

    85 GMC Jimmy <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com</a>
     
  9. bigblue

    bigblue 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2000
    Posts:
    658
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    southern california
    To each their own.
     
  10. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    Funny part is, I've never destroyed an axle off-road, always on the road.

    I've shreaded a 10 bolt and a 12 bolt, both with a 145 HP 305.

    I've got the semi-floating 14 bolt now. I don't think I'll break it. People recommend, "14 bolts" to these guys with K5s, I would recomend the semi-floater. It's nothing but a 12 bolt on steriods. It comes STOCK with 33 spline huge axle shafts and a 9.5" ring gear.

    It might lack the strength that a floater has, but my semi-floating 14 bolt is a tough as c-clip axles come.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  11. yeild2me

    yeild2me 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2001
    Posts:
    1,309
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    fayetteville, nc
    FWIW-i put about 155000 miles on my 10 bolts with out too much problem, but i was always worried about them (esp. the rear). i even had the 30 spline ones. when axle upgrades came along, it was cheaper (including the rims) to do the 14ff option, mostly because i had a gov-lock (which was shreaded) and wanted to change gears. i even would of kept ,my fromt 10 bolt with the 30 spline axles, but i found a d44 that already had 4:10's and 8-lug hubs so little, if any, added strength there. i guess the bottom line is-unless you are running 35's or greater, keep the 10 bolt or get the 14sf. my biggest thing with the ff and 35's is ground clearence, i swear i hit every rock at tellico with that damn thing!!! i really hated it when keith, who was in front of me, drug his 12 bolt!! i knew i was REALLY going to drag it :)

    c:\program files\ulead systems\ulead photo explorer 6.0\cache\img00010.jpg
     
  12. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2001
    Posts:
    3,596
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Minnesota
    I love it!!!! Finally! I aslo agree w/ TX and K30. Ok here is how I have seen this site... a good share of this site lives out west... weather it is CO, CA, etc. There they rock crawl.. now rock crawling needs a bullet proof axle if not axles (Read: D60). This is also where mods like the doubler come in handy. Now for me, I live in MN where we have mostly mud and some trails... no real steep grade or crawling unless you head out to the dakotas really. That and my rig is currently my daily driver so a 14B FF is probably gonna be over kill for me. I am going w/ a 12B w/ Superior shafts and some misc mods to strengthen it. Also take a look at this month's 4 wheeler... Steve Frisbie is on the cover and if you look further you will see he has a D44 and 12B combo. So if you don't have a 14FF it doesn't mean you can't wheel w/ the best of them... also look at Keith, Grim, and Depdog... again mad wheelers w/ 12B's. A 14 FF is the bulletproof way to go though. But w/ some mods and skill you can survive w/ a 12B just the same.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</a>
     
  13. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    And a 14 bolt SF is even stronger than a 12 bolt.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  14. Brians 60s

    Brians 60s 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2000
    Posts:
    1,115
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bend, Oregon
    actually it is very easy. Just remove and replace with 14 bolt and dana 60 and your done.

    IT'S A 1 TON THING.... IF I HAVE TO EXPLAIN IT, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND!!!
     
  15. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    That's absolutlely silly and unnecessary for most people.

    What cracks me up is people with 1 ton axles and tires 35" tall and under. What a waste. I wonder who needs it more, them, or my buddy with 44s on a 10 bolt front.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     

Share This Page