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how hard should it be to separate the engine & bellhousing???

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by solowookie, Jan 1, 2002.

  1. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    ok guys...

    I decided to split the engine & the bellhousing instead of the bellhousing & tranny... both seemed like a good option, but I decided not to go that way.

    OK so let me give you an update; I found a bolt to replace the one that was missing between the bellhousing & tranny, and found that all the bolts there were very very loose. this engine has been pulled before, and I am assuming this is how the pulled it the last time.

    OK I took all the bolts out between the engine & the bellhousing, and before I pulled the last 2 I put a jack stand under the tranny, and put a block of wook under the t-case. next I bolted up the hoist, and removed the engine mount bolts.

    this is were I am stuck... I cannot get the engine & the bellhousing to separate, and I'm wondering what I am missing??? [​IMG]

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  2. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    A bolt maybe? Double check. Otherwise, it is the locating dowels from the engine block into the tranny. Sometimes they are a little sticky or get in a bind if you don't have the tranny jack just right. Just raise it high enough to clear the motor mounts and pull back on the hoist so there is tension pulling the motor forward. You want the chain at an angle so that if the engine were hanging straight down, it would be about 1-2" from the bell housing. Then, just wiggle the chain left and right a little. If that doesn't work, you can fool with the tranny jack a bit and it may just slide forward (don't let it hit something) when you get the bind out. Last ditch is get one of those pry bar/big screw drivers and find a place to lever them apart. This is usually not necessary and you must be careful not to break an ear of the bell housing. That's all that comes to mind.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  3. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    Once the 6 bolts are removed from the bellhousing and all the other stuff is removed, raise the engine till it clears the mounts and the 2 should seperate. be sure to remove the distributor.
    If the input shaft is in a bind in the clutch asy it might be difficult to seperate.


    <font color=green> Too bad ignorance isn't painful </font color=green>
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    BTW, this is where the longer chain from a boom is good. The longer the chain, the easier it is to move the engine left, right, in, out as necessary. The easiest way I've ever swapped engines (as far as r&amp;r goes) is with a boom truck where I had about 15' (or more) of cable above the engine. You could just grab the engine and put it anywhere you wanted...

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  5. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    well I think I found the error my ways... (and I kinda feel stupid for not figuring it out, but hey what are friends for huh??? LOL [​IMG])

    I put a jack stand under the tranny before I unbolted everything (I jacked it up a bit so the tranny wouldn't drop at all... - like that did anything [​IMG])

    anyway I need to get my floor jack under the tranny, and use it to relieve some pressure.

    when I did my last engine job (which was my first) I pulled the engine and the tranny together so I never really had to go through this.

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     

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