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How long did it sit before someone drove it? Long but need info-UPDATE!PICS*56KDEATH*

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by chriskh, Jul 13, 2005.

  1. chriskh

    chriskh Registered Member

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    I've been lurking around this forum looking for some info and I have found quite a bit to be honest. So far this site has been awesome for the few days I have been visiting and reading. I have posted one question so far and have gotten some good responses. I trust I will get some good ones on this post as well.

    Here goes:

    Last weekend, this old guy that my mom is friends with and takes care of gave me his '76 Blazers (2) to be exact. I told him I really only wanted one of them but now I'm thinking parts vehicle! :doah: Now I have to make sure I can still have them both but I'm sure it's not a problem. They have been sitting for a few years (not sure how long) but they still run. One is really bad, the other (the one I want) isn't too bad as far as visible rust, drivability, running gear (including engine), and body goes. The one I want was in an accident back in '89 and was considered a total loss. The guy bought it from the ins co. and repaired it. I'm guessing that's why it's in beter shape than the other one. Anyway, it has 130k on it and it runs. When I went to look at them, it had a partialy dead battery. Hooked it up to cables, and with a couple of pumps, it fired right up, first try. It did but with a little black smoke too but that stoped the longer it idled. I took it for a drive. Please don't flame me for this but all I know about it is 1976, K5, 4x4, 350, MT 3sp+1 (Low gear). What tranny is this? Is it the one I want? Any one know what kind of rear end it most likely has or will I just have to look next time I see it? On my drive, I never got over 40 mph because the front end is so loose, I didn't want it to fall apart. Can it? Will it? On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being highest, what is the chance of it breaking and plowing into an oncoming car or ditch? I need to drive it like 20 miles to my house to work on it. Sounded like it ran alright but it really lacked power. When I really mashed on the gas, it puked quite a bit of black smoke out the tail pipe(s). One I drove it a few mins, the smoke decreased. Is this because it has sat for so long? I'm assuming that a complete tune up is in order, including cap, rotor, plugs, wires, timing check/adjustment, and a new air filter. Sorry but I have no idea what carb it has. The parts store has been asking me if it's a 2 barrel (spell check?) or 4. No idea! Do you think that will cure the smoke and power loss issue? What kind of other things should I look for on this vehicle? Anyone got any ideas on what it would take to make it a daily driver? I don't want to dump lots of money into it 'cause I'm already broke but I really want to get this thing on the road.

    All the help I can get here is greatly appreciated! Thanks, tons!

    PS: How long was yours sitting before you scooped it up and started driving it? (Without completely rebuilding it of course!)

    PSS: FYI: The other one has a/c that still blows cold which, I found unbelievable! Also, it has an AT that shifs when it feels like it. Front end is twice as bad.

    Thanks for reading!

    OK, here are the pics. All of the pics are of the blue one (Rusty) except for the red/white one (Butch). Tell me what you guys think. After looking at it last night, I think Rusty is in better shape than I originally thought.

    [​IMG]
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    Sorry the pic isn't better
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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And this will be called Butch. It has an Auto tranny that might be better suited for recycled material, if that.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2005
  2. chriskh

    chriskh Registered Member

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    Oh yeah, forgot. I'll take the digi-cam next time I go over there and get some detailed pics.
     
  3. big94gmc

    big94gmc 1/2 ton status

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    The granny 4spd tranny is an SM465. Good tranny - if you like manuals while offroading, it's a good one to build around. You most likely have an NP208 transfer case (someone please correct me if I'm wrong). Also guessing, I'd say you have a D44 front and a 12b rear, most likely 3.08.
     
  4. chriskh

    chriskh Registered Member

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    I'm guessing, 3.08 is pretty low to run big tires later on down the road? Is the NP208, D44, and 12b rear good?
     
  5. big94gmc

    big94gmc 1/2 ton status

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    Depends.... Are you going to build a street truck, a dedicated off road only rig, or a good driver/capable off roader?
     
  6. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    If its a 76, then the D44/12b are correct, but stock would be a NP203 tcase
     
  7. chriskh

    chriskh Registered Member

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    A "good driver/capable off roader" mainly. Nothing too serious at the moment.
     
  8. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    OK...maybe we can get the right info this time.:crazy:


    1976 with an SM 465 would have an NP205. Only '74 ever came with an SM 465/203 combo.

    Black smoke, no power etc etc sounds like tune-up and carb issues. The choke is probably sticky so it's running way too rich until it's completely warmed up.

    The front end issues...probably feel worse than they are. I would still get under it and tighten up the steering box bolts and visibly check each 'link' in the steering system before driving it.

    A 30 year old K5 is a poor choice if you're on a tiny budget...even if it's in great shape it'll kill you on fuel mileage. You can seriously expect to sink more than you expected into it to get it roadworthy. Not trying to rain on your parade...hell a free pair of k5's is an awesome deal...but I hope you go into it with your eyes wide open and fully understanding you will need to spend $$ on at least one of them.

    The 4 speed truck would be my choice based on your desciptions.

    Rene
     
  9. big94gmc

    big94gmc 1/2 ton status

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    I'd go for reliablity over capability if you're just starting out in the sport. Get the 350 running in top shape. Keep the SM465 and the NP203. For the time being, the D44 and the 12b will do (replace seals, bearings, etc as needed, but don't do too much else to 'em), but I wouldn't run a tire larger then 35's. Stick to a relatively small lift - 4" and maybe some slight fender trimming to fit 35's if the rust hasn't done that for you already. Spend the money to regear to 4.10's, maybe 4.56's, but with the granny low and 4.56's, you wouldn't even get to use that gear on the street. So do your research, run the numbers, and decide which gear ratio you'd be happier with. Also, be prepared to invest in all of PB Blaser/WD40, 'cause there's gonna be alotta rusted on bolts. You're going to spend a lot of time cutting off bolts, going to Ace Hardware, and matching up the old with something new. Comes with the territory.

    By the way, fullsize GM's aren't cheap to build/work on. Wish they were, but thats not the case.
     
  10. chriskh

    chriskh Registered Member

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    Well, in all honesty, I really want to get it road worthy for now. Future plans may include a lift and all that, just not right now. No lifting plans or any of that. I'd actually like to mainly use it for camping and the occasional snow days we have here in CO.
     
  11. big94gmc

    big94gmc 1/2 ton status

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    Then don't modify for now, only do 'restoring' projects to start with. That'll be better for familiarizing yourself with your truck, and getting to know more about it.


    Just know that a 4x4 is a hole in the street into which you pour money - there'll always be something. But it's fun! ;)
     
  12. clarkjw24

    clarkjw24 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I'd take both of them no questions. Can you get someone with alittle more knowledge about vehicles to check it out for the 20 mile trip home? We've got a lot of great members in CO that may would be able to look it over for you and give you a parts list or a hand fixing it.
     
  13. chriskh

    chriskh Registered Member

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    I have my stepdad. He's got some mechanical experience and he's a pretty smart guy. I deffinately will be taking them for sure. I won't miss out on the opportunity. I still wonder what you guys think about driving it like it is though. I might just risk it and drive it to my house on Saturday so I can get a better look at it.
     
  14. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Before you do...

    CHECK THE BRAKES!!..any vehicle that sits more than a few months will probably have rusted brake lines,and the rubber hoses can crack and fail--make sure they dont look like they are ready to pop!...I'd expect the calipers to be seized or they might stick,causing the rotor and pads to get real hot when your halfway home!(I had it happen to me several times after buying a "new to me" truck that has sat for months...the rotors are likely so rusted they will cause the brakes to smoke when you first drive it--that heat might encourage the calipers to seize,and you'll have to fix it right there,or have it towed!... :doah:

    If the front end is as loose as you say,I'd take Rene's advice and check EVERY tie rod end,draglink ends,steering box bolts,ball joints,etc...if all checks out ok,its likely the tires that are to blame--probably all pertified and dry rotted from sitting.(and can pop on your trip home)...the exhaust system will probably be rotted to death too from sitting...noisy exhaust will get the cops attention faster than anything else...

    I'd strongly suggest having them TOWED to your house,or rent or borrow a trailer!..I've gotten my share of old trucks home that had sat for years,but after having to swap all the tires and rims off my daily driver,and fighting to get the lugs off the "parked" truck,fixing blown brake lines,driving it home with 2 wheel brakes and vise grips clamped on the rubber brake lines,I look back and wonder how the hell I made it home in some of them without killing myself or someone else!..its not worth it!

    (and I got caught with my plates "attached" from my daily driver,the cop noticed the 4 year old inspection sticker as I drove past! :doah: --and the cop was nice enough to follow me home,and only chewed my ass out!--could have gotten a 200+ dollar fine :doah: :yikes: )--so I no longer screw around,I just call a ramp truck or borrow my friends car trailer..its far cheaper than having an accident or paying the fines for attached plates and driving uninsured will cost!..

    Its well worth the expense to NOT drive any old truck home that is in questionable condition....things were different years ago,but now you cant get away with hardly anything here...your area might be rural enough to not have any trouble,but I'd still play it safe and have them towed or trailered home if I were you... :crazy:
     
  15. chriskh

    chriskh Registered Member

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    Well, I'll definately check it out real good before I start on my journey. As for the insurance part, I won't even begin to take it out on the road without it. I have bad enough luck as it is. I won't chance a ticket.

    I forgot to mention before, the guy who owned it started it every so often to keep 'em both running so I'm not sure it that helps at all.

    As for the brakes sticking, I don't think they do. when I took it for a test drive, as soon as I pulled the e-brake lever it rolled right out of it's parking spot with my foot on the clutch and no help by the motor. Would this indicate the brakes aren't sticking?
     
  16. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    nope..

    The E-brake will only activate the rear shoes,and the rear drums dont usually "stick" like the front disc brake calipers will..most of the GM trucks I have resurrected had rear wheel cylinders that were stuck and would not even apply the rear shoes..it was always the front brakes that gave me grief--and they dont always act up right away..sometimes they "live" for a few miles,other times it might be a week or two before the calipers seize up...if your extremely lucky it wont seize at all..but thats not usually the case..

    Most vehicles that sit 6 months or more without being moved or driven have this occour,at least here in the rust belt of new england they do..your climate might not be as hostile as ours..they salt the roads so much here your truck will have holes in rust free sheet metal in less than 2 years if your not anal about washing them...If you see a chevy truck parked in the weeds around here,and your interested in buying it,you'd better act quickly--more than one truck I saw I wanted to buy was so rotted it nearly broke in half when the ramp truck pulled it out with the winch! :doah: :eek1: :(
     
  17. chriskh

    chriskh Registered Member

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    Wow, that's ruff! It's a pretty dry climate here. When it snows here, they usually put a little sand here and there to give a little traction. As far as salt goes though, i don't think they use too much here. At least that's what I've heard, someone correct me if i'm wrong. They now use this mag. cloride crap that I hate. They haven't been using it that long though and I doubt this machine has seen much of it.

    This info you guys are givning me is awesome! Keep it coming. I might go out there tonight and click some pics. Is I do, I'll post 'em up so you can tell me what you think.
     
  18. 3 on the tree

    3 on the tree 1/2 ton status

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    I put gas and a battery in my 70 K5 and drove it home bout 35 miles. It had sat for just under 4 years, OUTSIDE!!!! Need to rebuild the carb, but I am still driving it all over the place.
     
  19. chevyk5blazer666

    chevyk5blazer666 Registered Member

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    the smoke may be b/c of stale gas. if it has bin sitting for more then 2 years than there is a good chance that it is bad .put good gas in it .and i bet you it will stop smokeing
     
  20. chriskh

    chriskh Registered Member

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    Thanks! Good tip.
     

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