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Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by JimmyJuneau, Jan 26, 2002.

  1. JimmyJuneau

    JimmyJuneau 1/2 ton status

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    How many of you have installed a 6 inch lift with 35 inch tires? I am thinking about doing this setup this summer. What else will I need to do or get besides the lift kit and the arm?

    And if anyone in here had it installed by a mechanic how many hours did it take him to do it?

    Also will my 305 be powerful enough for 35 inch tires???

    Thanks Brian

    1985 GMC JIMMY
     
  2. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    well let's see you need:
    Longer shock's
    Longer Brake lines
    Driveshaft's
    Lower the transfer case
    Are you gonna do pavement pounding,rock's, or mud?




    Eric
    from Freekmont,CA.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.community.webshots.com/user/vwryda>Freedom is a state of mind...</a>
     
  3. JimmyJuneau

    JimmyJuneau 1/2 ton status

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    I really would bneed to get longer drive shafts? I am going to use it for pavemnet snow and some mud there arent any trails around here. How much do you think driveshafts are going to cost?

    1985 GMC JIMMY
     
  4. Greenblazer-AZ

    Greenblazer-AZ 1/2 ton status

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    For 35" tires I'd go with a 4" lift. In my opinion 6" is too much for 35" tires. It will make the tires look too small. If you aren't wheeling your rig then you must be wanting the lift for looks and I think 4" will look better with 35s. The other added benefit is that your rig will be less top heavy with 4 instead of 6. A 4" is less complicated and less expensive. How can there be no trails near you? I thought Alaska was mostly wilderness.

    If you knew the truth, you too would be against marijuana prohibition!
    Blue '74 K5 Blazer Topless W/ 35 BFG Muds (See profile for pics)
     
  5. JimmyJuneau

    JimmyJuneau 1/2 ton status

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    Well maybe Ill go with a 4 inch lift then.
    I live in Juneau which is a piece of land clinging to the sides of mountains and glaciers. And most of the forest around us is part of a national park and whast not part of a park isnt fit for making trails.

    1985 GMC JIMMY
     
  6. JimmyJuneau

    JimmyJuneau 1/2 ton status

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    Well maybe Ill go with a 4 inch lift then.
    I live in Juneau which is a piece of land clinging to the sides of mountains and glaciers. And most of the forest around us is part of a national park and whast not part of a park isnt fit for making trails.
    If I use 35 inch tires wsith a 4 inch lift wont the tires rub? Will I need new shafts for that much lift? And what about the gears?



    1985 GMC JIMMY
     
  7. Greenblazer-AZ

    Greenblazer-AZ 1/2 ton status

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    I'm not an expert, but I doubt you will have rubbing problems. I have 35s with somewhere around 1 to 2 inches of lift. They didn't rub on the street before I trimmed the fenders. Now that the fenders are trimmed they don't rub at all even climbing rocks. AS far as drive shafts are concerned, from what I've heard you won't need to have them lengthend for 4" lift but you may need to use a transfer case lowering kit. Are there any 4X4 shops in your town? I would bet that they would know where to find trails or places to play with your rig off road. If not contact the BLM and ask them for info regarding trails that you can use.

    If you knew the truth, you too would be against marijuana prohibition!
    Blue '74 K5 Blazer Topless W/ 35 BFG Muds (See profile for pics)
     
  8. TXsizeK5

    TXsizeK5 1/2 ton status

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    I had a 305 and 3.08's and i could turn them barely. I got 4.56 and boy what an improvement. I think thats the best mod ive done for a while. It shouldnt be hard at all to install a lift, but i think a 4" lift and 35's looks nice.

    87 Custom Deluxe
    305/Sm465/ NP208
    4.56 , 35" BFG Muds, CatCo Cat & Series 40 delta flow 3" tips.
    6"Springs, Tranny, & Engine coming soon.
     
  9. JimmyJuneau

    JimmyJuneau 1/2 ton status

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    How expesnive and ahrd is it to redo the gears?


    1985 GMC JIMMY
     
  10. JIM88K5

    JIM88K5 1/2 ton status

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    Tell you what....
    4 in frt springs-4 ORD shackle flip w/stock rr springs &amp; ORD
    zero rate add a leafs = 5 in lift + 35 in tire looks killer &amp; almost
    no tire rub. Stock front drive shaft-So far so good. Rear shaft
    is CV for the vibe prob. But still need to shim it to get it 100% vibe free. The gear deal is this. If you got a 700, 4.56 is theway to go.
    I paid $ 1100.00 for re-gear frt &amp; rr parts &amp; labor. All is good but It's a never ending project.....
    YA HOOO
    Jim



    88 Silverado K5 5.7-700R-208-10 bolts-4.56-35in
    Procomp AT's- some ORD stuff & a CV driveshaft
     
  11. BigTex

    BigTex 1/2 ton status

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    Your tires WILL rub if you go with 35" tires and a 4" lift. Even on the street some times. I'd go with the 6" lift. You'll be sorry once your fenders start munching on your tires if you don't.

    <font color=red>"DON'T TAKE LIFE TOO SERIOUSLY, YOU WON'T GET OUT ALIVE."</font color=red>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine</a>
     
  12. GONZO2

    GONZO2 1/2 ton status

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    depending on the 4" lift co. you go with, may depend on how much lift you really get out of it.
    my 4" rough country all spring lift(about 5.5" of lift when compared to before and after, stock springs were sagging though) clears 35x12.5x15 pro comp mt tires with no problems. even with a few off road trips done i have yet to rub them. the ride is good on the road too, not too bouncy. i did have to lengthen my rear drive shaft (under $150). and add longer brake lines, kit came with everything else.
    you can see pics of it here <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/gonzo_01>pics</a>


    <font color=blue>85 blazer</font color=blue> 4" lift, 35" pro comp mt, locked out back
    <font color=blue>88 blazer</font color=blue>mostly stock
    <font color=blue>99 30th ann. TA</font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>79 TA</font color=blue>
     
  13. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    I didn't need driveshaft mods, and neither did hispanic panic, we did have to drop the TC, and get longer shocks and brakelines,

    Sun Desert Offroad <a target="_blank" href=http://4x4.alloffroad.com>4x4.alloffroad.com</a>

    83 Chevy, 350, sm465, lincoln locked14ff, (soon to be- spooled dana 60, flatbed,and 39.5" TSL's)
     
  14. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    here is my experience...i went with a 6" kit(superlift softride so it came in at like 5.5") springs front and rear...i didnt need longer brake lines...didnt need longer driveshafts...shocks came with the kit(as they should with any complete kit) and the steering arm was needed(came with it as well) i had a little vibration out of the rear driveshaft so i used the stock spacers on the transfer case crossmember to drop it about an inch and that took care of everything


    go 6"s...i ran everything from a 38X12.50 swamper to a 36X14.50 radial swamper to a 35X16 bogger and never had problems rubbing unless i got fairly well crossed up...the tires dont look that small with 6" and 35s

    as far as the 305 is concerned as long as you got a decent gear ratio in your axles you should be fine...

    oh by the way i put the lift on myself in my driveway in a day so its not that hard or time consuming...the worst part is getting the steering arm off...hope that helps

    Later

    Have you driven OVER a Ford lately?
     
  15. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    JJ... I currently have a 6" BDS lift in my 87 truck and have a few items to add...

    First off go with new longer brake lines. They aren't cheap, but considering the age of most of the ones out there along with greater stopping pressures I think it is a very wise idea. Secondly... if you go 6" you are really gonna have to play around to get the vibes out without a CV shaft. The slip yoke style rears are a pain to deal with in that aspect. In terms of the front, if you don't want to flex that much you can run a 1" spacer for the front driveshaft. No matter what you choose you will most likely need to modify the Y pip of your exhaust to work. Also remeber if you drop the tcase... it will help your rear driveshaft angle, but hurt your frt shaft angle... You'll need to shim the front axle to help with the angle either way, but the bigger your shim, the worse your alignment gets. Also another issue that can arise is you may need to grind the CV joint on your front shaft if the angle is bad enough to make it bind up.

    Axle/gearwise... make it easy on yourself and find a set of 3/4 ton's w/ 4.56's if you have OD. 4.10 will work well for a non-OD tranny. Also this may be the time to look into changing tcases so you can run a fixed yoke out back. Will make the angles a bit easier and is nice if you break a shaft or u-jt far from home... pull the rear shaft and drive home in 4wd.

    Right now I have a 6" with a rear CV driveshaft, 1" spacer for the front shaft, no tcase drop, 2 degree shims up front and for steering correction I have a drop pitman arm and a 4" raised steering arm. I also run 35" MT's and have 4.10 gears and it isn't enough gear for me... so I would guess the same for your combo being that it is a stockish 305. If I was doing it all again I would be really hard pressed to not choice the 4" lift instead and trim the fenders

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
     
  16. BigTex

    BigTex 1/2 ton status

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    You're absolutely right. A lot of it really depends on the brand of lift you install. Also, my suspension lift is over 5 years old, an I have rear blocks w/an add a leaf.

    <font color=red>"DON'T TAKE LIFE TOO SERIOUSLY, YOU WON'T GET OUT ALIVE."</font color=red>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine</a>
     

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