Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

how much do carb rebiulds cost?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by bryguy00b, Dec 15, 2003.

  1. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2002
    Posts:
    5,587
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Rochester, N.Y
    deciding on whether or not i should just rebiuld it myself or have it done? but i gatta do something fast. ive never rebiult one befor? how hard and how long does it take? cuase i dont have to much time. or if i took it some place what does a carb rebiuld normally run?
     
  2. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2002
    Posts:
    2,116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    so cal
    i can get a Jet Performance stage for $125.00 /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. Silver84k5

    Silver84k5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2002
    Posts:
    3,769
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Hillsboro Oregon
    its not hard to do.
     
  4. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2002
    Posts:
    5,587
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Rochester, N.Y
    whats that?? re-jetting the carb or something and making it perform better?
     
  5. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2002
    Posts:
    2,116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    so cal
    half my words are gone...
    I can get them re-built for $125.00 to there stage II specs...
    jetchip.com

    [​IMG]
     
  6. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2002
    Posts:
    5,587
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Rochester, N.Y
    hmm wish i had the money for that...i dont know how to tune my carb right..ive got a stock 350 with headers and duals, thats the only thing thats not stock that i know of, its been fine for a long time..but always got shitty gas milage..this one and the holley befor it both got the same gas milage on this engine..is tuning it right something i can do or does it need to be done by a pro? i dont know whats wrong with the thing now..it runs really rough..at idle bogs down slowly and wants to die...has bad hesitation when flooring it..and puffs out a lot of smoke..which normally it doesnt do that..like its running to rich or something...
     
  7. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2002
    Posts:
    20,073
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Salem, Or.
    hmmmmmm....I just may take you up on that when I get the money...you have any idea what there lead time is to get it back?
     
  8. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2002
    Posts:
    20,073
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Salem, Or.
    The last rebuild kit i bought and did, cost me around $18 IIRC.
     
  9. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2002
    Posts:
    2,116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    so cal
    on the Q-jets you need to make sure the butterflys are closed when at idle, then adjust the idle jets to get it to your RPM...
    the turn around would be 2-3 days for the re-build and shipping... /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  10. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2001
    Posts:
    8,905
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    central IL
    they ar4e easy and cheap to basic rebuild and if the float is brass then go get a new float they are only a few bucks, if you do a fast rebuild, it would take 1-2 hours depending on amount of cleaning and also experience/knowledge, i do them alot and have excellent luck with them, the last one i did was the one on the 83 K20 the engine was badly blwoing up fuel in exhaust syeme like gunshot going off, and i rebuilt it iuun a couple hours after cleanign and i didnt evne need a kit and the truck fired right up amd it sounds and runs like brand new truck after- only cleaning it out and blowing coompressed air through the jets and such,
    the secondary air jets in the air horn assembly had fallen out of their bores ! so i cleaned them and tapped them back into their bores carefully with screwdriver handle,a nd measured to make them stick out the same as eachopther from gasket surface of the airhorn assembly and then i reassembled it and th4e rest is history,

    the way i do it is get a small finishing nail and carefully tap the roll pin that holds the accelerator pump green lever in place and is what it pivots on, tap it towards center of carb just until the lever will slide out of the aluminum that it is sandwiched inbetween, dont tap the other end of the pin so that it is up against the carb housing there,the lever will come out before then /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
    now take the phillips screws that are pointed up from underside of carb base assembly and are thrteaded into the air horn assembly they are long scxrews, now take and remove all the screws through the air horn assembly that holds it down to the bowl assembly, there are two inside the primary bores area under the choke blade plate and towards rear of carb in therfe when facing front of carb, now you can carefully pry the airhorn assembly off the bowl assembly, if you are careful enough sometimes you can reuse the gasket and most likely not need a rebuild kit if parts are in good shape inside not all dried up and full of junk and corrosion! my 83 K20's carb was clean inside didnt rvren have any white dried powder in the bowls, it had sat minimum 4 and a half years never fired up or anything, it just simply needed cleaned up and the jets put back in their bores into air horn assembly..

    if you have the big aluminum round schoke housing type of auto choke then you will need to remove the black plasdtic round choke cover and you will see one screw insidce black colored and it is what holds the cover to the casting of the bowl part of the carb, but you first have to rmneove the little lever thingy on the end of the shaft that goes through housing and into the bowl casting that moves the rod that goes up to top that you had to disconnect by removing pump arm roll pin, but i wqould hold the carb on its side with all the choke stuff pointing upwards and very carefully pull parts off and line them up on the bench, because if you arent familiar with this stuff then its hard ot get it back together with all the tangs and levers pointing same direction and such, have to be careful.

    when you get the airhorn assembly off the bowl assembly then the gasket wil be right there, pull all the pars and screws oiut of bowl assembly and use carb cleaner and soak it all down in there soak it all good and blwo out with compressed air, clean internals real good, i always spray WD40 inside and on parts and gaskets and such for reassembly and when im ready to put the air horn assmebly back in place

    this is all really pretty much straightforward to do, i learned just by removing screws and going from there /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

    if you have any Q's or need any carb parts, lemme know i should be able to help
     
  11. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2002
    Posts:
    5,587
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Rochester, N.Y
    well maybe ill go get a rebiuld kit this week and just do it...grounded from my truck at the moment anyway lol /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     

Share This Page