Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

How should I lift my blazer?!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 74K5CHEYENNE, May 8, 2002.

  1. 74K5CHEYENNE

    74K5CHEYENNE Registered Member

    Joined:
    May 6, 2002
    Posts:
    14
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Missouri
    I have a couple choices for lifting my blazer. I can rebend the springs(the back ones sag) or blocks or I could do a shackle flip. I don't know which is the best. I go offroad about once every month so it needs good on road handling. I was only thinking about 3"-4". I don't know how to do a shackle flip so if that is the best can you guys tell me how to perform it and if I can do it on the front and back. I have a good supply of hockey pucks for blocks... I don't really care about articulation but I'd like to have it if it is easy. Also I wonder if I should get a different steering arm and how bad it will screw up everything. Or should I just buy springs as you can see I have never lifted a truck. I am open to suggestions. Thanks for the help guys!!
     
  2. k5ntexas

    k5ntexas 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2001
    Posts:
    2,517
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    corpus christi, texas.
    ok NO NO NO NO NO NO on the hockey pucks. lol. i'd say get springs instead of blocks. their better. i'd say get a 4" lift. ya would need a 4" steering arm. its a must. thats a good startin point and you'll be happy with it. hope this helps. later.

    jacob
     
  3. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2001
    Posts:
    9,946
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Keizer, Or
    Leave the hockey pucks in your sport stuff.

    The easiest way to lift the rear is a 4" block. which are a-okay for the street and it keeps your stock springs so the articulation is nice. 2nd option is the ORD or home brew shackle lift. the ORD style one replases the rear stock spring hanger and provides a 4" lift using the stock spring. And last option is a 4" spring kit, cost more, but if your stock ones are sagging this is the only way around that.

    As for the front you have to replace the spring pack, or do a combo of add a leafs and an ORD zero rate. just easier to get a 4" front spring from a company like Tuff country or rancho or ...

    4" front springs will require a 4" steering correction.

    To some it all up, I would get a 4" kit with rear blocks for what you want it to do, I had this on my 79 Jimmy and it did just fine. I paid like $299 for a complete kit. and it was my first lift and by myself I did it in a weekend.
     
  4. MudbogAD

    MudbogAD 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2001
    Posts:
    672
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Las Vegas Nevada, US
    I agree with 55willy. A 4" suspension lift with rear blocks. It's a great start.
     
  5. ChevBlazin

    ChevBlazin 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2002
    Posts:
    332
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    St. Paul area, Minnesota
    Also agree with 55willys. Just get a 4" kit with front springs, rear blocks, shocks, and a 4" raised steering arm. I got mine from 4 wheel parts wholesalers. The kit was something like $290 and an additional $40 for the steering arm. My self, dad, and grandpa installed this in one day on a weekend with no prior knowedge, pretty straight forward. The steering arm was a little tough, but if you have an air hammer it will help greatly to pursuade it to come off.
     
  6. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2000
    Posts:
    13,973
    Likes Received:
    453
    Location:
    Marietta GA
    I'm guessing you have 74 but since you didn't fill out your profile I don't know for sure. If you rear springs are sagging you can get some newer stockers from the junkyard and go w/ new springs in front and a block in the back for now. Then add the flip for the rear and ditch the block latter. Also, take the top off and you might see some improvement in the sagging rear. Last thing, go to the store today and buy some PB Blaster and start soaking the the nuts on the steering arm.
     
  7. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2000
    Posts:
    1,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sioux City, IA, USA
    I remember watching a dude on Dateline that used Hockey pucks in front and the rear /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif. Of course, this was during the time when Dateline was on its anti-chevy crusade. Like the gask tank problem they made up. Of course the tanks are going to explode when you wire explosives to them and trip them when hit during a crash test. Lets talk about all the fireball Fords that have been around. My dad used to investigate fires when I was little and I used to get worried if someone was driving a Ford. I was afraid they would burn up, haha. Thats all I saw when I went along with him was Fords. Probably a 3:1 ratio compared to chevy/dodge.
     
  8. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    3,639
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Missouri
    Well, I would agree with these guys, but heres the route you should consider. Most of us buy parts, install them, then end up removing them later and selling to others (who end up later selling them). What I mean is, you will definately get "inch-itus" if you are like most K5 owners. So, skip the 4" and add a 6". So, buy used or new Front 6" springs. Next, either buy a 2.5" shackle flip from ORD or make your own by cutting a square hole in the bottom of the rear spring hanger and placing the shackle through the hole. Do ORD a favor while you are doing this, by a set of greasable shackle bushings for the rear. Next install 4" rear springs and there you have it. If you want major flex, just unbolt the spring pack clamps to let the leaves separate more. You take a chance at breaking the main leaf this way, but Ive never had problems. Next, buy the Missouri Offroad Outfitters rear shock mount kit and buy a set of Ford F250 front shock towers. Buy a set of 5012 shocks. You will have one of the flexiest rigs on this site and never have to worry about tires rubbing up to 36". I had to trim my fenders to fit my 37" Boggers and I recently installed 38" TrXus STS.

    Just dont want to see you buy parts, then later remove them. Dont go with blocks. I broke some leaves with a set of blocks.

    Save money by buying only the parts you need. Don't buy a "lift kit" which has crappy shocks, blocks, and stuff you dont need. Dont buy the Raised steering arm - Go with Crossover - its really just as cheap to build it right the first time than messing with parts that will later end up on the scrap heap.

    Heres a breakdown of my "Budget Lift kit"

    6" Front springs - Bought used from Frisbie $200

    4" Rear springs - I traded for these, they were brand new - I had $100 and a worn set of 35" tires invested.

    Shackle Flip - built my own

    ORD Bushing Kit for front shackle and rear bushing kit - $125

    1" longer than stock front shackles - Built by PopZ Fabrication - trade deal (thanks Todd)

    Extended Brake Lines - $40 from Steve Fox

    5012 shocks - used $40 pair of 2.

    Rear shocks - free from Frisbie (the Missouri Offroad Outfitters shock mount requires a stock style rear shock) should be easy to find

    Crossover Steering - roughly $400 total with all parts

    Missouri Offroad Outfitters Shock mount - $193

    F250 Towers - $35


    Grand total = $1133 /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif sounds pricey but youre money ahead. I spent $500 on a Superlift 4" kit several years ago and where did that money go?

    Hope this helps.
     
  9. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2000
    Posts:
    13,973
    Likes Received:
    453
    Location:
    Marietta GA
    That works fine if he has the cash now. He already said he lacked experience. I say build what you want. If you only want a 3 or 4" lift don't get the 6". I doubt someone new to do this is going to jump right in and do a cross-over. It is good to let him know there are more options out there but there are a lot of people who are happy with the simple things. Just my 2c.
     
  10. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2002
    Posts:
    2,032
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    sillycon valley
    When I had my '77 K20 I put a Rancho ez-ride 2 1/2" kit on it. Rode a hell of a lot better and had no problems running 33". Didn't need a steering arm either.
     
  11. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2001
    Posts:
    1,975
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    I agree with Jim. I always said I would never want to go bigger than 4" lift and 35's. Well, I will go bigger when these tires wear out. But I am glad I went with the 35s and 4" lift first. I learned what is good and what is not. I learned how to do things when your rig is mechanically challenged. I believe this will make me even better off-road when my rig gets its upgrades.

    If you are REALLY concerned with price, I recommend the Rough Country 4" system. I had sagging rear springs and this was my answer. It isn't the smoothest ride, but it works fine for me. Handles good as a daily driver and has yet to limit me offroad. Nice thing about it is you can get everything including 4" raised steering arm, brake line relocation brackets, and shocks with new rear springs for under $500. Or, if you want to go blocks in the rear, you can get it for under $300. I think that is a great place to start.
     
  12. 73blazerUSMC

    73blazerUSMC Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2002
    Posts:
    43
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    South CA
    hey mudzer you forgot the lengthened drive shaft needed for that new 6" of lift i have a 73 with a 4" and i lengthened the drive shaft because at full droop it was just alittle to close to seperating cuz i like to dune jump . i like your idea but he said he is just starting out and you had some pretty tough instructions for a newbie just my 2cents

    -scott
     
  13. 74K5CHEYENNE

    74K5CHEYENNE Registered Member

    Joined:
    May 6, 2002
    Posts:
    14
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Missouri
    I am wonderinf if lifting my blazer will start making crap break. My blazer is a 74 and is in REALLY good conditon(I'm working on posting pics). I just got a $4000 paintjob and hate to ruin its worth by lifting it if you guys think it will. I have a puny motor though a 305. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif But I found a 396 or a 454 for $450 each. which do you guys think I should get? I have a th350 and I wonder if the motor would mount up w/o changing anything. I have HD springs in the front and back. Oh yeah and thanks for all the help!
     
  14. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    Lifting it won't ruin it, but what you'll want to do to it after you lift it will. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  15. 73blazerUSMC

    73blazerUSMC Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2002
    Posts:
    43
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    South CA
    hey 74k5chyenne i say u go with the 396 and tell me who is selling the 454 /forums/images/icons/smile.gif where are u guys ne how?? man u dont know how long i have been looking for a 454 i dont want t beef up my 350 ne more /forums/images/icons/smile.gif pm me if you can hook me up with that motor ok thanx

    ohh yea and lifting it can increase the possibility of breaking things but not if done right and not some outreagous height
     
  16. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2002
    Posts:
    19,217
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Everywhere
    Heres a breakdown of my "Budget Lift kit"

    6" Front springs - Bought used from Frisbie $200

    4" Rear springs - I traded for these, they were brand new - I had $100 and a worn set
    of 35" tires invested.

    Shackle Flip - built my own

    ORD Bushing Kit for front shackle and rear bushing kit - $125

    1" longer than stock front shackles - Built by PopZ Fabrication - trade deal (thanks
    Todd)

    Extended Brake Lines - $40 from Steve Fox

    5012 shocks - used $40 pair of 2.

    Rear shocks - free from Frisbie (the Missouri Offroad Outfitters shock mount requires a
    stock style rear shock) should be easy to find

    Crossover Steering - roughly $400 total with all parts

    Missouri Offroad Outfitters Shock mount - $193

    F250 Towers - $35.............................................................................................................................................. What would it cost to put together this some thing using all new parts ?????? (Tough Country springs)
     
  17. 74K5CHEYENNE

    74K5CHEYENNE Registered Member

    Joined:
    May 6, 2002
    Posts:
    14
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Missouri
    hey usmc I live in Missouri and i'll look up the guys ph #. Where do you live? the 396 is out of a 68-69 chevelle and he didn't say what the 454 was out of.
     

Share This Page