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How to beef up a 10 bolt?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by stallion85, Feb 9, 2004.

  1. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I know none of you guys like stock 10 bolts /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif but I am not planning on going any bigger than 33X12.50 with them. I want to beef them up a little and put a locker in the front and rear. I know they have 3/4 ton 10 bolt setups for the front end, or at least they have 8 lugs? Can you do the same for the rear 10 bolt? I am not sure what makes them tougher. What would you guys do to make these axles tougher for a locker in the front and rear? I have 3.73 gears and plan on leaving them the same. Right now I have 32X11.50 tires. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif
     
  2. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    put a locker in, put good Spicer or Neapco joints in the axleshafts, freshen the brakes if necessary, repack or replace your wheel bearings, and a good set of hubs.

    Carry a few spare parts.

    33's aren't going to kill a 10 bolt unless you wheel on it really hard. I am currently running 35's in the rocks with a locker. Only one run so far but alot of guys have good luck in AZ on the rocks with 35's lockers and 1/2 tons. Just be aware that it is possible to break stuff and carry appropriate spare parts.

    i carry a full set of axleshafts along with wheel bearings, spindle, yoke, brake line, and hub for one side.

    Harley
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    If you're not planning on any off roading that would require a bigger tire than a 33x12.50, are you SURE you want lockers?

    Oh, and please, please, please, don't spend any money on your 10 bolts. At least not the rear.
     
  4. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    P.S. I am running the 8 lug conversion on mine but it is only to match the rear axle in my truck which is 3/4 ton 14bff. The only advantage my 8lug 10 bolt has over a six lug is a little bit bigger rotor and more larger wheel studs. Otherwise the bearings, axles, gears, lockers, spindles, calipers, etc are the same.

    harley
     
  5. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    yea that's good advice. I am very easy on my truck. I like to take it slow and let the granny gear do most of the work. But on the other hand I like to climb some hills and I would like that reassurance that I can get up it with no problems. I have thought about changing the hubs to the warn premium setup. I have heard good things about them. Probably since it's the best out there /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gifLOL
     
  6. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    If you're not planning on any off roading that would require a bigger tire than a 33x12.50, are you SURE you want lockers?

    Oh, and please, please, please, don't spend any money on your 10 bolts. At least not the rear.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    You really don't need a much bigger tire to do the wheeling that I do. I don't plan on rock crawling competition style or anything like that. The mild to moderate wheeling I do could benefit from time to time with a locked rear. I mean all jokes to the side what would the benefits be of an oversized tire if you don't need the groud clearance for your diff's? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  7. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    That is what I run. I personally wouldn't worry about breaking axleshafts much with 33's. 35's is usually the magic number for 10 bolts. Not saying it won't happen with 33's but you would have to be really unlucky or being really hard on things.

    Rockcrawling is very hard on parts and D44's and 10 bolts seem to do ok with 35's. Things do break but not as often as most people would like you to think.

    Harley

    p.s. make sure your ball joints are in good shape too.
     
  8. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    If you're not planning on any off roading that would require a bigger tire than a 33x12.50, are you SURE you want lockers?

    Oh, and please, please, please, don't spend any money on your 10 bolts. At least not the rear.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    You really don't need a much bigger tire to do the wheeling that I do. I don't plan on rock crawling competition style or anything like that. The mild to moderate wheeling I do could benefit from time to time with a locked rear. I mean all jokes to the side what would the benefits be of an oversized tire if you don't need the groud clearance for your diff's? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    We could go back and forth on this issue all day long. If you're heart-set on keeping or "beefing" a 10 bolt, go for it, by all means.
     
  9. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    A D60 is really not the answer for 33's though. If it was available cheap ( /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif tell me where so I know too), sure, but 33's should be fine on a well maintained 10 bolt. Spares would be a good idea but actully going and spending $500-600 on chromo axles and more $ on CTM's etc is really not necessary for 33's.

    harley
     
  10. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    I agree with you Harley /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I really don't feel I need to swap the axles out to get the trail performance I am looking for /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  11. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    ou really don't need a much bigger tire to do the wheeling that I do. I don't plan on rock crawling competition style or anything like that. The mild to moderate wheeling I do could benefit from time to time with a locked rear.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Just a thought from me, I'm *kind* of in the same boat.

    The 14FF is definitely overkill for me. I don't need the FF, and I don't need the 8 lug setup either. Don't want to lose the ground clearance (not changing tire size) and don't want the weight.

    I've pretty much decided on a newer 14SF. You lose about 1/2" ground clearance, not nearly the weight of the FF, don't have to change wheels, cost isn't outrageous, you can probably find one with disk brakes, plus they have a bigger carrier, ring/pinion, and axleshafts.

    I would much rather drive my truck around (even if doing moderate wheeling) not having to carry a set of axleshafts because they *might* go. (or a carrier, or R&P) If you aren't putting down serious power, on big tires, in hard use, then a 10 bolt will PROBABLY last. (mine did in my '83 for years, and has in this truck as well) There are plenty of them that haven't though, even in stock or 33" applications.

    After all my soul/fact searching, I decided that for light wheeling, somewhat hard street driving, and 33's, the 14SF made more sense to me than trying to keep 10 bolts together IF they ever break. I'm looking for a 14SF right now, and since I haven't broken anything I'm in no hurry. But when/if the 10 bolt goes, it isn't going to be replaced by something that I've already proven is inadequate, especially since there is something already out there that isn't a pain to fit in, and is a substantial improvement.

    FWIW
     
  12. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    A D60 is really not the answer for 33's though. If it was available cheap ( /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif tell me where so I know too), sure, but 33's should be fine on a well maintained 10 bolt. Spares would be a good idea but actully going and spending $500-600 on chromo axles and more $ on CTM's etc is really not necessary for 33's.

    harley

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I definitely agree. I'd run a 10 bolt if it was what was there. It'll work until it's done. No sense in swapping it out if it doesn't break and has the gears you want.

    However, if you intend on abusing your truck, no sense in leaving it there, it'll only cause you grief when you fail.
     
  13. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    interesting reply /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif You have some good points. How many of you guys have had some bad experience with the 10 bolt on 33's? Just wondering what kind of things could go wrong? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  14. Jonny-K5

    Jonny-K5 1/2 ton status

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    get moser shafts when you do the rear, just a tad more than stock shafts but alot stronger. if your getting a new diff get them both 30spl(diff and axles). i went with front and rear ARBs, moser 30 rear shafts,warn premium hubs, spicer 5-760x joints for the front. love the air lockers, but wouldnt have gotten them if i didnt do the install myself.
    if your paying to have it built get a plug in locker, it will hold up fine with 33's and i lightfoot. plus you can do it yourself. if you were getting lower gears i would say get a detroit.

    [ QUOTE ]
    If you're not planning on any off roading that would require a bigger tire than a 33x12.50, are you SURE you want lockers?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    i could see needing lockers with stock tires, all it takes is a little loss of traction (mud,sand,snow) and your 4wd is no wheel drive. lockers arent just for rocks.
     
  15. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I personally think your 10bolts will be just fine if you run only 33's. I ran 33x14.50" agressive SSR's with my built 406 pushing them for a little while. I never had any breakage issues but I only did mud with a little hill climbing here and there. I would say you shouldn't have much for probs. as long as you don't have a gov lok and use a decent aftermarket locker.

    Everybody has different experiences and opinions though, my buddy blew his 10B up with 33" bahas when he was hillclimbing...but he hammers on it and never lets off.
    /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
    More important than "I wan't a 33" tire"...what type of tire? I always ask because there is a HUGE difference between a 33x14 bogger and a 33x10.50 A/T. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  16. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    interesting reply /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif You have some good points. How many of you guys have had some bad experience with the 10 bolt on 33's? Just wondering what kind of things could go wrong? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    My 10 bolt tore the ring an pinion up with 31s.

    A 12 bolt was swapped in and the pinion bearing expoloded at 35 mph (I had 35s by then).

    I have had a 14 bolt SF for over two years. Absolutely beat the piss out of it and no issues, even with 38.5s. I'm swapping it out now before my truck leaves the yard again for a FF, but I've got my use out of it. I got it for free.
     
  17. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    I personally think your 10bolts will be just fine if you run only 33's. I ran 33x14.50" agressive SSR's with my built 406 pushing them for a little while. I never had any breakage issues but I only did mud with a little hill climbing here and there. I would say you shouldn't have much for probs. as long as you don't have a gov lok and use a decent aftermarket locker.

    Everybody has different experiences and opinions though, my buddy blew his 10B up with 33" bahas when he was hillclimbing...but he hammers on it and never lets off.
    /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
    [ QUOTE ]
    More important than "I wan't a 33" tire"...what type of tire? I always ask because there is a HUGE difference between a 33x14 bogger and a 33x10.50 A/T. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I am pleased with the MTRs. I have been running them for a year now and I am impressed. I will stay with the GoodYears /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  18. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    All my posts have been in reference to the front axles. I am not a fan of 10 bolt rears (hense the 14bff in my truck) but they can last too. If it has a Govlock get rid of it. If you are going to lock it use a full case locker. Beyond that wheel it till it breaks then upgrade to a 12 bolt or 14b sf or ff.

    Harley
     
  19. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Personally I would upgrade to 3/4 ton axles do to the fact that a Detroit locker is cheap for the 14 Bolt FF, and if you ever decide to go with tires larger then 33's. Do you need them ?? Probley not, but they're fairly cheap and bolt in pretty easily, + you can't argue with the strenght of the 14 bolt ff. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
     
  20. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    as long as you don't have a gov lok and use a decent aftermarket locker.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    Another maybe or maybe not applicable comment...(not to rfguitar, but about the gov-lock he mentions)

    The Gov Lock in this truck hasn't given me any problems. I like the way they operate (again for what I need to do with the truck) but obviously the strength is an issue...the gov-lock is probably as responsible for 10 bolt failures as are all the other components combined.

    From what I can tell, the 14SF is just a big 10 bolt. (probably some minor differences in the way things are cast, but not visible from pics I've seen) Carriers look the same as a 10 bolt, at least with the Gov-Lock. I might be negating some of my strength comments from before, but you might see where I'm coming from...the 14SF still has larger components than a 10 bolt, so if the 10 bolt gov-lock has worked for me, I will undoubtedly take a 14SF gov-lock if I can find it.

    If I can't find a 3.42 Gov-Lock 14SF, I'll probably just do an Eaton Posi as opposed to any non-gov-lock setup, since I'm *more* concerned with road manners. Set up tight, it should work fine for me, since all the wheels are typically on the ground at all times. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Again, I reference myself only because I know exactly how hard and how often I'm going to push *MY* truck. As rfguitar states, his friend drives hard and breaks a 10 bolt, yet he never had a problem.

    When not going to the "max" with anything, you have to start weighing the pros and cons of what you need to do, and how to do it. I just can't see spending money on a 10 bolt when you can probably achieve the same results for the same money (or perhaps less) with a 14SF.

    If the 10 bolt won't cut it, a 12 probably won't either. If the 14SF won't cut it, then go with a 14FF. And that is exactly the route/order I would take if I was fairly sure I'd break a 10 bolt and wanted a margin of safety. Obviously, knowing that 33's and light wheeling are all my truck will ever see, anything over the 14SF is overkill *IMO*.

    Besides, the possibility of perhaps finding an already disk-equipped rear excites me. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     

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