Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

How to install leaf springs?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by muddbogg89, Mar 21, 2002.

  1. muddbogg89

    muddbogg89 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2002
    Posts:
    97
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Chicago(suburbs)
    I have never done leaf springs. Can I do them with a floor jack,jack stands and an impact wrench? Any advice would be appreciated.
    I am looking to do both the front and rear springs
     
  2. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2002
    Posts:
    7,324
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    Grass Valley, CA
    Front or rear leafs?
     
  3. muddbogg89

    muddbogg89 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2002
    Posts:
    97
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Chicago(suburbs)
    Both, but the fronts need it more
     
  4. chvyhs

    chvyhs 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2001
    Posts:
    1,469
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Murrieta, California
    Just a jack, jack stands, deep well sockets, breaker bar, a big hammer, and a buddy. An impact is a luxury. Make sure you spray everything with WD40 for a couple of days too. It's not that hard.
     
  5. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2002
    Posts:
    7,324
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    Grass Valley, CA
    In the rear it is pretty simple. Jack up the truck and support it on the FRAME. Remove tires. Unbolt drive shaft at rear diff. Place jack under center of diff to support when you remove u-bolts. Unbolt the 4 u-bolt nuts on each spring. It REALLY helps to spray these nuts with WD-40 once or twice a day a couple days in advance of when ya plan to do this. They are usually rusted on tight. Remove u-bolts. Lower diff slowly, keeping an eye on brake lines, breather tube hoses ect ect. as to not stretch or break them. Some of these you might have to remove. When axle is lowered from truck, support it with jack stands....Dont use just the jack, if it falls off the jack, its a bitch to get back up there. Now move on to the springs themselves. Unbolt the shackle bolts at each end of the spring and lift spring out of the way. Replace it with the new one. The front is alittle more complicated because of all the steering stuff in the way. Its more or less the same process though. Just keep an eye on stuff like drive lines, brake lines, and vent tube hoses. Another thing that will drive you nutz, (It definatley drove me crazy) is compressing/tweaking the springs to get the holes in the springs to line up with the shackles. I just installed the first lift kit I've ever done about 4 or 5 months ago on my '76. Including the steering arm, I got it all done in about 8 or 9 hours. I just had blocks in the rear, so that went alot faster than it would if I had new springs.

    Hope this helps. If anyone else see's anything I missed, please add to it. Good luck bro, and lets see some pics of the project. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  6. muddbogg89

    muddbogg89 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2002
    Posts:
    97
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Chicago(suburbs)
    That info will definetly help.Thanks man
     
  7. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2002
    Posts:
    7,324
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    Grass Valley, CA
    No problem dude. When I tackled mine, I hade never done anything like it. Just read alot of articles and stuff. Went pretty well, considering. Now I've got the bug- Cross over steering and schackle flip here I come! Good luck. /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif
     
  8. chvyhs

    chvyhs 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2001
    Posts:
    1,469
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Murrieta, California
    I almost forgot, do one spring at a time. The opposite spring will keep things some what lined up while the other is out. Good luck
     
  9. CooknwithGas

    CooknwithGas 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2001
    Posts:
    332
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Istanbul, Turkey
    If you are just replacing the springs, no need to mess with the driveshaft. Leave it connected. One other thing - I had to use a "come-along" to line everthing back up. I had to do this on the front and on the back for some reason (Maybe cause I left the driveshafts connected). I put in a 2.5" lift with new front and rear leaf springs. Some big blocks of wood are helpfull. Here are a couple of pictures of when I did mine. (that nasty light blue paint has been removed since that job!)

    http://imagep.webphotos.iwon.com//1000016899/1000016899_3222002101329AM0.8909571.jpg

    http://imagep.webphotos.iwon.com//1000016899/1000016899_3222002101331AM0.3359295.jpg

    Good luck with your project.
     
  10. ChevBlazin

    ChevBlazin 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2002
    Posts:
    332
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    St. Paul area, Minnesota
    Since you are not supposed to re-use u bolts I would just cut them off. Up here in MN turning those rusty nuts off proved to be almost impossible. Just take a grinder or cut off wheel to them, it should speed up the process.
     
  11. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,031
    Likes Received:
    366
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    one tool that definitely helped me when I went to bolt my rear springs back on last time was some axle grease and a big rubber mallet. The new bushings I had made it tought to get the eyes to line up for bolt insertion... the trusty old mallet saved the day. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

    J
     
  12. 4x4machine

    4x4machine Registered Member

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2002
    Posts:
    52
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Alberta, Canada
    Are U-bolts usually supplied with lift kits? I've been looking at a lift kit for a while now, and from past experience with my Trans Am, U bolts are impossible to remove.
     
  13. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,031
    Likes Received:
    366
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    i never really had a problem with ubolts... soaking them with wd40 or whatever for a few days before you go to remove them might help.... as would a big breaker bar. But then... what problem won't a big breaker bar solve? /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

    J
     
  14. TrcksR4ME

    TrcksR4ME 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2002
    Posts:
    2,482
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Seattle, WA 98103
    You really shouldn't reuse u-bolts? I thought maybe not the nuts, but the bolts themselves huh?
     
  15. bigk

    bigk 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2001
    Posts:
    358
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Mendon Illinois
    U-bolts aren't very expensive, and several experienced mechanics have told me the same thing, NEVER put old ones back on. Also, after you've run the truck a couple days, tighten the bolts again, and again in a week or so. And I don't care if you're an Olympic power lifter, you can't get them too tight. Can't be too safe. If you have access to a torch, you can cut the old bolts off in the time it would take you to bend over and spray WD-40 on them. Just be careful of anything else around it that shouldn't get hot.
     
  16. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,031
    Likes Received:
    366
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    I'd just sawzall the suckers off if I was worried about a torch heating the axle...

    J
     

Share This Page