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How to install WARN PREMIUM HUBS-Clear as Mud...Yeah, RIGHT!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by _DeeVee8_, Jan 26, 2001.

  1. _DeeVee8_

    _DeeVee8_ 1/2 ton status

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    Clear as Mud...Yeah, RIGHT!

    My first try installing WARN PREMIUM LOCKING HUBS has been less than satifying and now where near FRUITFUL.

    I grabbed some easy instructions from someone on here a while back about how to get past that little 4X4 emblem on the cover to the outside of the Auto Hubs...

    Here's whats happened:

    I followed the intructs from the WARN hubs box as well as the intructs from a fellow K5er who had an '88 (mines an '84) he said the total amount of time would be around 15-20 minutes...I spent 2 hours and still no dice.


    PER HIS INSTRUCTIONS WHICH SOUNDED EASY TO ME:----->>



    ..."Clear as mud.......... How to install WARN hubs. .....PARTS: Non other than the stuff in the WARN box
    REQUIRED TOOLS: Needle nose pliers, torx driver (sorry forgot what size, but screw-driver will work since you won't be putting them
    back in), 7/16 allen key, plenty of shop rags (for the tons of grease you'll be wiping off your hands.)
    OPTIONAL TOOLS: Snap ring plyers (I would highly recommend these), and a jack (for testing after install)


    TOTAL PROJECT TIME: 15 minutes
    ...oh..UH, HUH!



    HIM: 1) With the torx bit remove the outer auto-hub cover
    ME: (hey piece of cake here...I got into that like 5 times)

    HIM: 2) Remove small metal key over large keeper-ring (or whatever they call it) on outter most part of auto-hub assembly.
    ME: (They call that a SEAL BRIDGE RETAINER CLIP... ok that was easy...)

    HIM: 3) Use the needle nose plyers and squeeze the ring while grabbing the auto-hub assembly and it slides right out.


    ME: ( ok , this is where I spent most of my time trying to look at the figures in the book, in the WARN intructs, and at his intructs to figure out what the hell he was talking about...So I proceeded taking the retaining ring on the outermost part of the assemble and then ...Whooooosh! the spring came flying off and gashed my hand open...I later found that this WAS NOT the item they wanted you to remove...because for like the next hour I was practacally whacking the hub to knock it out! I WAS STEAMED!)

    ME: Got up cleaned off my hands from all the grease and went off to drink a beer and smoke a ciggarette.....
    Came back with a renewed vigor to try to pull the @$#&*&*! out the way HE described it


    HIM: 4) Remove snap-ring from axel (really small needle nose can work here if you pull the handles apart and yank).

    ME: OK> I READ THIS but i know a haven't gotten the unit to slide out the way it was described....At this point the sun had dipped behind the trees and the temperature had also gone down with it and my fridgid fingers were losing their dexterity(its about 12 degrees outside now) AND THEN I SAW the keeper ring thingy(it's called a Internal Wire Retaining Ring, as per Haynes manual) Squeezed the ring and the whole unit slides out like HE said it would. WOOHOO! Grab another beer and a cigarrette.(gotta even out the pain of blood , sweat, and grease and the harsh temperatures!)


    HIM: 4) Remove washer from axel.
    Me: NO PROBLEM!



    HIM: OK. All that stuff you took out can go into a box or something. you won't need it unless you want to reinstall those auto-hubs. Wipe off your now greasy hands...

    ME: CELIBRATE! Another beer and read the instructions over again one more time.

    HIM: 5) Slide new WARN assemply into axel.

    ME: OK, WHOA! This is where everything is all supposed to come together for me so I can speed through and do the other side in the alotted 15 minutes. eh ? NO? I slide in the new warn hubs and the space provided on the shaft did not allow ANY room for the internal wire retaining ring nor the C-Clip snap ring! I tried and I tried and nothing. Jacked up the side and shook the wheel for End-Play but it was solid...spun freely and was perfect. So anyway.....
    6) Install new keeper ring (or whatever they call it). (Assembly should jiggle in and out a little bit)
    Me: NOPE...this ain't happening man...GAME OVER! GAME OVER!
    7) Install axel snap-ring (helps to push axel from behind so it doesn't push back in). HELLO? from what side is this? maybe this step should be two steps ago?

    8) Make sure chrome cover is in "free" position and install with 6 bolts using allen key.

    ..Yeah it is... I'm holding it in my hand dreaming of one day being able to install these $#@!*&%^! by myself THANKYOU!

    That's it! Jack up that side, spin the tire, and make sure there isn't any noise. Then turn that hub to LOCK and make sure it spins
    the drive-shaft. Repeat on the other side and you're done. Make sure you remember to un-lock both new hubs.

    .....So I have to put the whole thing back together again so I can get to work ontime this Saturday!!!! But The problem I have now is that the Oil Slinger spring is odd the hub and I couldn't get it to go back on because of all the pressure required for 8 fingers and two thumbs to push on it while trying to reinstall the assembly aid retainer(round steel clip that holds down the coiled oil slinger)

    What am I doing wrong then?
    And BTW...what holds the warns in place..just the keeper ring/C-Clip lock ring?

    I was so close...I had to tell this one like it is.. I 've tried to do this now like 3 times and I get a little furthur ahead. I feel like a dumbass and rightly probably am!

    maybe someone can tell me now how to finnish the job...aside from blowing up the vehicle!

    -DeeVee8
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Well I can't help you out any, I've never installed Warn hubs. Just wanted to say that I've just been sitting here LMAO for the last few minutes!!![​IMG]
    Funny stuff, I thought I was the only one that had this much fun!!!
    Good luck, I'm sure someone here can help you out!

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Cavalry

    Cavalry 1/2 ton status

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    I have a simmilar problem with prem hubs. I cannot get the hub in far enough to put the outer lock ring in the groove. The old superwinch ones i have fit fine. The only way I can get the hub to go all the way in is by removing the snapring on the axle shaft (the one that keeps the wheel on if your nuts loosen up) so I know that aint right. My wheel bearings are torqued correctly and the lock ring is indexed properly so the pin is in a hole. I dont get it. I messed around with it for a lunch break and decided I could screw with it another day

    Luke
    84 K5
    [​IMG]
     
  4. _DeeVee8_

    _DeeVee8_ 1/2 ton status

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    Luke? Yours is an '84? Mine is an '84!!!!

    IS THERE A PROBLEM WITH 1984 Blazers?

    Seems to me the case.....

    That makes two of us...

    So Now what? Do I have to take it to a guy who will make me fork over his full labor rate(book time) for two 15 minute jobs?

    WTF?

    I thought this was supposed to be easy!!!!!!

    AAAARRGGG!!!!


    1...2....3....4...I'm Calm....I'm Calm....

    pant..pant
    Ok I'll have another beer!!!

    -Dv8
     
  5. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    I had a problem with the snapring groove being too far in on my 10bolt. I just used the outer shafts from a d44 that had the groove further out (like 1/4").
    The Warns I used were originally bought for a 76 dana44, so that explains why i needed d44 outer shafts.
    Sorry you're having such a rough time.
    -- Mike
     
  6. Mr Red

    Mr Red 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I've now decided I may not do my own for my new '91. This may sound too simple but since two diff. people had the same problem, I'd tend to say there's a problem that Warn needs to deal with. If they don't fit..... they don't fit.. PERIOD. Get your money back & buy another brand. I can't recall them off the top of my head but I'm was gonna buy a diff brand altogether... Now it's a cinch. My neighbor that owns a 4X shop sells them and their similar to Wacked premiums but about 15 cheaper each.

    Good Luck,
    [​IMG]
    <font color=red>David, '86 & '91 K5</font color=red>
     
  7. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    Has anyone had this problem with the regular Warn hubs?

    90K5

    See my truck at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502</A>
     
  8. Wingnutt

    Wingnutt 1/2 ton status

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    I had the same problem when I tried to install them in my ’88. After about a week, I got in touch with a tech representative that actually knew what he was talking about. According to Warn, this is a fairly common problem; here’s what he said. The spindle nose (the threaded part that the bearing retaining nut and locking nut screws onto) on some models is a little to long for their hubs to work on. Turns out that, according to an old timer Chevy mechanic that I know the run-out tolerance is +0.180” past the end of the threads. I took my hubs apart after work one day and measured the clearances. If you spindle nose extends 0.120” (almost 1/8”) past the end of the threads like mine does, Warn’s hubs won’t work, they will extend past the retaining ring groove by .068” (the width of the retaining ring, how’s that for irony). After a lot of measuring I found out that if the spindle nose extends past the end of the threads any more than 0.50", the hub will extend over the retaining ring groove which won't allow the retaining ring to slip into the groove. The Warn tech actually recommended a set of Super Winch hubs. He said that they are 0.250” shorter than Warn’s. I haven’t been able to find a set around here yet, so I can’t tell ya if they will work or not. Or you can remove your spindles and have the end machined back to the threads. Hope that this helps.
     
  9. yeild2me

    yeild2me 1/2 ton status

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    my mile markers (the cheap ones, maybe 50 bucks at a parts store) fit perfectly on my 89..it really did take 15 min. i havent had any probs with them either.....

    summit sell the superwinch hubs..59.95, but the add says dana 44, may work with a ten bolt, may not....

    AIRBORNE!!
     
  10. Cavalry

    Cavalry 1/2 ton status

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    I have 2 sets of brand new warn prem hubs, one set of old prem hubs, one set superwinch hubs, one set selectro hubs, One blazer '84 10 bolt, and one PU '84 10 bolt. I WILL FIGURE OUT WHATS GOING ON HERE!!!!!! If it takes all weekend 'swappin out crap

    Luke
    84 K5
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Gandolf

    Gandolf 1/2 ton status

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    My '89 had Warn Premium Hubs on it when I bought it. I didn't realize until now how lucky this was!!

    "You can’t have a real adventure, unless the outcome is truly uncertain".
     
  12. 4GUNZ4X4Z

    4GUNZ4X4Z 1/2 ton status

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    Dude thats got to be one of the funniest post I've ever read. The first thing I did when I bought my 84 was take it to the trails and blew out both front auto hubs, dont ask me how but it happened (think'n they weren't engaged in a long time). The next day I bought some warn hubs and went to town. I dug in far enough to figure out that I needed spindles. So I had to make a trip to the salvage yard. It took about 2 hours for me to get done with the install, I guess it was beginners luck. Man all I can say is dont give up. The next time you do this it'll be alot easier, cause of your first experience.

    <font color=blue>Professional <font color=red>JEEP EATER</font color=red>, it's a population control thing.</font color=blue>
     
  13. JoeAngelicchio

    JoeAngelicchio 1/2 ton status

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    I've installed the Superwinch hubs. Nice and easy, no problems. Also installed Mlemarkers in the past with no problems, but one hub grenaded for no reason so I went with the Superwinch. They seem to be made more solid and there're heavier.

    <font color=green>Joe Angelicchio
    86 Jimmy 4+3, 35-&gt;39.5 tires,4spd
    </font color=green>
    [​IMG]
     
  14. flcpl4fn

    flcpl4fn 1/2 ton status

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    When I got my 85 Jimmy, it had a full time front hubs. within a week of having it I got the Warn Premium hubs, and the only problem I had was, no one told me you were suppose to leave the washers out. But I figured that out when I put it together and it was real tight. Other than that, they went together with no problem and they have worked great since I put them on.

    '85 Jimmy in Jax, Fl
     
  15. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    Yeah, I caught hell on my 84 with the hub not wanting to go in all the way....

    Murphy's Law :
    "When you don't know what your doing, do it neatly."
     
  16. JimmyDie6.2

    JimmyDie6.2 1/2 ton status

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    so whats the best set of hubs to get?? superwinch?? I have an 83 with the autos now, and they're starting to grind. I decided to tackle a 6 foot snow mound of fresh packed powder only to find out halfway over there was a mound of ice under it from the previous storm. I ended up getting stuck for an hour, trying to go back and forth with the hubs grinding and the front tires on the drivers side sometimes engaging...what a freakin nightmare...this of course was on school property, on the grass, with two of my cop buddies drunk laughing about how I'm the only one of the three going to get arrested..................well we dug it out, went to hooters, and continued the festivities.........oh ya, whats the best manual hub to get???.........js
     
  17. johnny reb

    johnny reb 1/2 ton status

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    hmmm....I've got an 86 K5 and it only took me about 30 mins. to install the Warn Premiums. At first, I couldn't get the new hub to fit in all the way, so I just kept rotating it on each axle spline until it fit in all the way. Then after I got it in, I couldn't get the c-clip on the end of the axle. So I had to take everything apart again. Then I pulled the axle out as far as it would go and carefully reinstalled the hub so as not to push the axle back in. Then, the c-clip fit. Bolted everything back up and now they work fine. If I remember correctly, the directions that came with mine said that installing the c-clip on the end of the axle shaft was not absolutely necessary. Don't give up. This was the best investment I've made on my truck. If you want a copy of the manufacturers instructions let me know.
     
  18. walt88

    walt88 1/2 ton status

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    This is what I have learned from reading this thread. Do not buy an 84' K5 and do NOT buy Warn Hubs. I am going for superwinch.

    Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down.
     
  19. K5Jimmy

    K5Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Funniest post I've read in awhile...Thanks for the chuckles, chortles and guffaws....one thing ya didn't mention that may make a difference....What kinda Beer were ya drinkin'??...and...are ya sure ya had yer fingers on the right hands.....good to know I ain't the only one who mechanix like this...

    I'm at 10th and Plum....10 miles from nowhere, and Plum out in the sticks....
     
  20. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Here's a couple of things to try:
    First, make sure you don't have the spacer still on. The only thing you should see before installing the actual hubs is the lock nut that holds the hub housing (the part with the rotor, etc.). Next slide in the Warn hub (threading in two of the allen head screws will give you a handle to hold on to. You may have to wiggle or rotate it a little to get inner and outer splines lined up. After it is all the way in, chances are there will not be enough room to get the snap ring on.......why, because the front axle shafts are full floating and without the hubs in there is nothing that holds them solidly in place. When you are pushing the hub in, you actually push the axleshaft further into the housing until it bottoms out in the carrier (diff housing). When this happens, simply take a screwdriver and place it where you can see the axle u-joints (in between the upper and lower ball joints) and pry the axle shaft back out. It should slide easily and will probably only move 1/4", but that should be plenty to get the snap ring on. Then all you have to do is install the outer locking ring and bolt on the hub face (chrome cap with the dial on it).
     

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