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How to make it work??

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sapper, Feb 18, 2005.

  1. sapper

    sapper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I recieved a Warn 9000lb winch today and after doing some searching on there site i found out that its a seriesm 9 industrial winch that runs off of 24v DC, after putting in a call to Warn i got the "it wont work" i dont believe so how do i run a 24v winch on a 12v truck? The link for the winch is below, TIA

    http://www.warn.com/industrial/winches/series9dc_pn30284.shtml
     
  2. ilikeitloud

    ilikeitloud 1/2 ton status

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    correct me if im wrong but i believe that you would have to get another battery and wire them in series to get 24volts.
     
  3. mr_clean

    mr_clean 1/2 ton status

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    yep.
    2 batts series gives you 24v, but same current as single batt.
    Parallel gives you 12v but double current

    Scott
     
  4. RustBuket

    RustBuket 1/2 ton status

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    You'll have to get another battery that you can have hooked in series just for winching but make sure that only the winch is getting 24V you'll burn everything out if you pump 24v through everything else.
     
  5. 79Stomper

    79Stomper 1/2 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Maybe a conversion kit purchased from Warn?????? Hell take it back where you got it from and smack them in the head with it and tell them you want a 12 volt one. Who runs 24 volts these days anyways????????????:whistle: :whistle: :whistle:








    Serioulsy though, maybe find a 12 volt motor and replace it or a conversion kit to convert it from 24 to 12.
    BTW how does it look sitiing on the picnic table of yours?
     
  6. dontoe

    dontoe 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Yea, I'd get two small batteries, wire in series, and hook 'em up. Only hassel I see is charging. Hey never messed with 'em but the nice bass boats run 24vdc trolling motors. They have to charge them off a 12vdc system. Look up and see what I can find.:)
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2005
  7. dontoe

    dontoe 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Found this:






    HOW TO GET 24 VOLTS FOR A BOW THRUSTER OR WINCH FROM A 12 VOLT SYSTEM



    * NOTE:- This technique is only suitable for driving intermittant loads with a low duty cycle such as a bow thruster or winch. Off (charging) time should be at least 10 times the in-use time.

    This is a traditional problem that typically has very dangerous and expensive switching. Typically it is done with a second battery that is kept in parallel with your 12 volt starting or house battery for charging, but is switched in series with that battery to run the 24 volt item - bow thruster, winch etc. This is expensive and dangerous. You have to use two very heavy duty switches, one to switch the negative of the additional battery from the -12 to the + 12 of the starting battery, and the other to disconnect the +12 of the additional battery from the starting battery. BUT THE TIMING IS CRITICAL. If one switch is operated before the other you will end up shorting a battery and cause an explosion.

    So here is how to do it the safe way using only a single pole single throw switch.

    In the circuit diagram, you will see that the auxilliary battery is connected in parallel to the 12 volt battery through a pair of headlamps, one in the positive lead and one in the negative. With the "24 VOLT" switch open, the charge on the additional battery will be the same as the 12 volt starting battery because the headlamps, which carry a couple of amps when lit, will trickle charge the additional battery to the full voltage. Under normal circumstances, the headlamps will only have a fraction of a volt across them so except under heavy charging/discharging conditions they will stay off or have a very dim glow. [​IMG] There will be 12 volts going to the 24 volt load when the switch is in the 12 volt position but since the headlamps are in series with the circuit, if the bow thruster were turned on, only a couple of amps would flow and the headlamps would light. When you close the 24 volt switch, the batteries are now in series and 24 volts is available for the bow thruster. While in the 24 volt mode, a couple of amps will flow through each headlamp and they will come on full brilliance. The amount of energy wasted, however, is small compared to the battery capacity and the few amps through them does not materially diminish the high current available for the thruster.



    COMPONENT SELECTION



    The BATTERY capacity of the auxiliary will be a function of how long you think you will need the bow thruster in one session, and how often sessions will occur. Refer to the bow thruster current requirements to determine this figure. For example, if the bow thruster draws 50 amps (about 1.5 horsepower) and you need to be able to run it for up to 30 minutes, that comes to 50 x 0.5hr = 25 amp hours. You should double this figure to provide a safety factor and reduce cycling the battery below the 50% charge level. So a 100 amp-hour automobile battery for about $35 would be ideal. You should match the chemistry of the battery to that of the starting battery - don't mix an AGM or GELL battery with a WET lead acid. Otherwise the batteries can be of different ages, manufacturers or style. You don't need a deep cycle battery here - the usage is more like that of a starter motor battery in an automobile.

    Charging time after a typical use can be calculated by dividing the amp-hours used, say 25 in a 30 minute period, by the charging current, say 4 amps = 6 hours, or 12 times the discharge time.

    The HEADLAMPS should usually be the highest wattage you can find. In fact I use a high/low beam headlamp and wire the high and low terminals together so both filaments are in parallel. The high temperature will reduce life but since they are only going to be on for a few minutes a day maximum, who cares? A major advantage of using headlamps to limit the current is that the resistance is non linear. As they cool down the resistance goes down dramatically and they tend to draw a constant current for charging even though they are not brightly lit. You should consider placing the headlamps so the light is visible from the bow thruster control panel location so you don't forget to switch back to CHARGING when the bow thruster is no longer needed, otherwise the headlamps will eventually discharge the auxiliary battery.

    The SWITCH should be sized for the maximum current of the bow thruster plus a safety margin. For an economical installation, a simple battery disconnect switch is ideal. If you want a remote control, then you should use a simple single pole, normally open relay instead of the switch. We have a 130 amp relay in our Parts and Kits catalog that will handle many thrusters. PutPrice("C130C");

    [​IMG] Just wire one side of the coil to a remote on-off switch connected to +12 on your control panel, and the other side of the coil goes to the normal negative 12 volts.

    The CABLES should be sized as recommended by the bow thruster manufacturer with regard to the length of the run. Note that only the cables to the switch have to be this size. The cables to the headlamps only have to carry a few amps so a 12 or 14 gauge wire would be adequate.BackHome(51)
     
  8. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    24v takes less power compared to 12v unit. and its a mill spec part most likly.
     
  9. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    The power required will be the same either way. But since there is more voltage available in the 24 volt setup, less current is required to create the same power level. :cool1:
     

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