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How To Measure for Proper Shock Lengths

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by SAVAGE1, Mar 17, 2001.

  1. SAVAGE1

    SAVAGE1 1/2 ton status

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    When I got my ProComp lift, the guy at the shop said to install the lift first then measure for the proper shocks after. I'm going with RS9000's. Is this guy right? How do I measure for the proper application. Anyone running RS9000's with a six inch lift, can you give me some numbers.
     
  2. Cavalry

    Cavalry 1/2 ton status

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    That sounds like a pretty good idea because there are varaitions between trucks even with the same lift. I would put on the lift articulate it...measure I have a means to check for max compression and droop, If you can measure these too that would be good. Then use those measurements (max length and min length) in this guide <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/shocks/>http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/shocks/</A> (yes i know its for toys but its good info) to pick the right shocks. Also when you have it articulated look at brake hoses and e brake cables for proper length.

    Luke
    84 K5
    [​IMG]
     
  3. SAVAGE1

    SAVAGE1 1/2 ton status

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    Anyone know the part # for Rancho 9000's for a 6" lift?
     
  4. muddin4fun

    muddin4fun 3/4 ton status

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    Okay...I have a question...if you have a 4" lift and put a 6" lift shock on it, will it bottom out or do the bumpstops stop it first?

    [​IMG]

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://muddin4fun.coloradok5.com>http://muddin4fun.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Well on the front's your not going to find a shock that will work for the full potential of most trucks with the sway off. The location of the upper mount is just plain wrong. See Steve's Shock mount wrte up in the Technical section. The way I did it on my truck is I got the truck maxed out with no shock on it all . Measued compressed and fully extended. I took1.5- 2 inches off the compressed to make sure the bumps stops stopped the axle and not the shock. The shock or shock mount will break if the shock bottoms out under compression so this is important. Then took those mesuments to my parts store and they had a chart that showed the compressed and extended lengths and matched up the one that looked like it would work best. It ramps a 752 on a 25deg ramp and limited by the front since I'm still on stock mounts.
    For the recored I just saw and add for Advanced Auto Parts and they were having a shock sale and the picture was for a 9000. So I asume they are selling them and possibly cheaper than the 4x4 shops.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  6. SAVAGE1

    SAVAGE1 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Grim. Did you use a ramp to get your truck to maximum flex and compression? The problem is that I have no access to a ramp. Is there an easy way to do it, with some big jack stands or something (i have 12 ton jack stands). Would there be any problems running without any shocks for short distances, besides being bumpy as hell.
    Here's the best deal I've found for RS9000's- $55 bucks!! <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.hotrod-offroad.com/frames.html>http://www.hotrod-offroad.com/frames.html</A>

    Thanks,
    Rod

    <P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by SAVAGE1 on 03/19/01 12:49 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
     

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