Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

How to properly install wheel studs??

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 85mudblazin, Aug 23, 2004.

  1. 85mudblazin

    85mudblazin 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2004
    Posts:
    3,951
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin,TX
    I am replacing the wheel studs on my 14bff and I was wondering what is the proper way to replace them?? Bang them out with a hammer and them bang the new ones back in??
    Thanks
    -Chris
     
  2. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2002
    Posts:
    15,139
    Likes Received:
    565
    Location:
    Iowa
    Preferably with a hydraulic press. It's been done many ways but I believe that is the appropriate way.
     
  3. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2003
    Posts:
    2,257
    Likes Received:
    5
    Location:
    Chelsea, MI
    Use a press or a hammer.

    When using the hammer method take a spare lugnut and put it on the stud so the end of the lugnut is flush with the end of the stud. The idea is to prevent the studs from ending up with ruined threads when removing the studs. Well, if you're replacing all of them with new ones then who cares...
     
  4. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2001
    Posts:
    3,027
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    SO CAL
    I would say to use a brass punch/drift rather than the lug nut on the end. If the studs are being a biatch...you may smash the lug nut onto the stud and not be able to get the lug nut off.
    I've heard of people doing it both ways, but I use a brass drift and wack them out. Works well and doest f' up the threads.
    But if you are getting new studs, then wack away, just be sure not the mushroom them to where you cant get them out.

    To put them in, I use a steel punch/drift and wack them in until fully seated. You'll be able to tell. You;ll be hitting them in and it hits will feel 'softer' and then when they are seated all the way you'll feel a nice solid hit.
    You can salso see when they are all the way down. Just MAKE SURE they are in ALL THE WAY!! or else as they seat, your lugs will loosen, and that can lead to disaster.
     
  5. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2002
    Posts:
    16,250
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    Tri-Valley, NorCal
    Having done these several times now, I've found that other than a hydraulic press, a BFH and a very large bolt works the trick. I tried using a large drift but I felt there wasn't enough mass there. I went and got a very large Grade 8 bolt about 10" long and at least 1" in diameter and used it to drive them in. I was never able to get the studs to seat completely using the lug nut method and if you aren't careful, you can strip it anyway.
     
  6. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    I use an air hammer to drive them in. I think the lug nut/washer idea is the wrong answer.
     
  7. 85mudblazin

    85mudblazin 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2004
    Posts:
    3,951
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin,TX
    Yea I took the studs out to get the drums off and just wacked them back in with the hammer and nothing got messed up that I could tell, I like the big bolt method I have one laying around here somewhere that would work good, thanks for the info,
    Next where can I buy the new studs and what do I ask for?
    Thanks
    -Chris
     
  8. BlueBlazer

    BlueBlazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2001
    Posts:
    1,940
    Likes Received:
    0
    [ QUOTE ]
    I think the lug nut/washer idea is the wrong answer.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Explain please. I have installed literally hundreds of studs this way when I used to install tires and never stripped one, broke one, or had one not fully seat, NEVER.
     
  9. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2003
    Posts:
    3,254
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Castro Valley, CA
    Press or big hammer.
     
  10. BlueBlazer

    BlueBlazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2001
    Posts:
    1,940
    Likes Received:
    0
    I agree, a press is the correct way to do it, but why do it that way when its so much more work and so many people do not even have a press?
     
  11. mofugly13

    mofugly13 1 ton bucket of rust Premium Member

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2002
    Posts:
    2,813
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    San Francisco
    I use the ball end of a ball peen as a punch and whack the flat face of the ball peen with a BFH. This way, you have a nice fat, solid target, and a handle that should a whack go astray, you won't mash your wrist.
     
  12. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    I think the lug nut/washer idea is the wrong answer.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Explain please. I have installed literally hundreds of studs this way when I used to install tires and never stripped one, broke one, or had one not fully seat, NEVER.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Because you have the potential to over stretch the stud. Just like you use a torque wrench on everything, I refuse to put that much force on a stud when installing it.
     
  13. BlueBlazer

    BlueBlazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2001
    Posts:
    1,940
    Likes Received:
    0
    You simply stop when the stud seats to assure you are not stretching it.
     
  14. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2003
    Posts:
    2,257
    Likes Received:
    5
    Location:
    Chelsea, MI
    What's the proper torque for 7/16" lugnuts? Isn't it like 80ftlbs or something (I put mine on with a regular half inch ratchet, that way I know I can get them back off)? I'm pretty sure you'd need at least 150ftlbs to get a stud seated which I'm certain is more than a 7/16" stud is designed to have applied on it.

    I prefer the hammer method over that. It usually only takes one blow on a stud on rear shafts and two or three on the front due to having to go through the rotor first.
     
  15. BlueBlazer

    BlueBlazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2001
    Posts:
    1,940
    Likes Received:
    0
    [ QUOTE ]
    I'm pretty sure you'd need at least 150ftlbs to get a stud seated

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I dont believe this is true. Think about this: When you hammer a stud in, lets say you dont get it quite seated. It will seat when you put the wheel on and tighten the lug nuts. Now, do you think the torque wrench will click before you seat the stud all the way? Of course not, because until the stud seats fully, the friction between the knurls and hub will not be enough to cause the stud to stretch. You guys can do it your way, and I will do it mine, just dont tell the original poster that my way will ruin a stud when me and others have proven time after time it does not. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  16. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    If the knurls aren't lined up perfectly, or if it starts to go crooked, it will break the stud before it seats. I've done it before, so I know it is possible. I've also sold studs to people, they call back, and order more because they cannot get them to seat without breaking.

    It might work 70% of the time, but it's the other 30% that I'm talking about.

    Reguardless, I never use a lug nut to pull a stud through. I think that is the wrong answer, as I said before.
     
  17. BlueBlazer

    BlueBlazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2001
    Posts:
    1,940
    Likes Received:
    0
    Well if you cant line up the knurls before putting the stud in then thats your fault, not the fault of the method you use. Oh, and out of the hundreds I have installed this way, I have never broke one, the only thing I can see happening is galling of the threads. It takes a LOT to break a brand new stud no matter what size stud it is.
     
  18. 85mudblazin

    85mudblazin 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2004
    Posts:
    3,951
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin,TX
    Ill just hammer them back in, it will be much faster.
    So where can I get the wheel studs??
     
  19. BlueBlazer

    BlueBlazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2001
    Posts:
    1,940
    Likes Received:
    0
    Any local parts house that stocks Dorman parts. Most of the chains carry Dorman so you shouldnt have too much trouble finding what you need. Keep in mind they usually dont just hammer in there real easy, youll see.
     
  20. 85mudblazin

    85mudblazin 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2004
    Posts:
    3,951
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin,TX
    I hammered in the stock ones back in and it wasnt to bad, maybe 5-10 hits with the hammer, maybe it will be harder with new ones.
     

Share This Page