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How to remove frozen bleeder valves

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 | Suburban | Truck' started by scavenger, Sep 30, 2000.

  1. scavenger

    scavenger 1/2 ton status

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    Need information on how to go about removing frozen bleeder valves on the rear wheel cylinders. I have already tried PB Blaster and tapping on them but they will not budge. One rounded off and I think the other will twist off. Any ideas short of getting new cylinders. I was told that it may be possible to bleed the brakes by cracking open the brake line at the wheel cylinder, but I would think that the brake line fitting would be just as stubborn as the bleeder valve. Also I don't know how you could possibly get all of the air out by loosening the brake line. Any Ideas?? ....thanks
     
  2. bart

    bart Registered Member

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    no go on the brake line bleed..you'd still have air in the actual hyudraulic cylinder bore...you could try and heat the bleeder area a little bit with a small torch....or, just go and buy new wheel cylinders...they're only $8.50 at PepGirls!

    -Bart
     
  3. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    Buy new ones.
    I don't know about the quality of Pepboys stuff, but the GM ones are about $25 each.
    Sounds like a lot, but a buddy just replaced his on a 77 - OE lasted more than 20 years.
    -- Mike
     
  4. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Author

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    The same thing happened to my Dana 60 calipers up front. Both sides broke off the bleeder valve and then I tried an easy-out and that broke too. I finally had to get new calipers but at least I know both are good. Pep Girls sells Raybestos wheel cylinders. I upgraded to larger wheel cylinders on my Typhoons rear drums a while back and Pep Girls had the best price on the Raybestos cylinders.

    Shawn
    87 K5
    few mods
     
  5. scavenger

    scavenger 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the info. I am going to try heating around the bleeder valve. A local brake shop owner told me to heat an area approx 1/2 inch below the valve until it just starts to turn red, then spray it with cold water to cool it down quickly. Evidently this makes the metal expand and contract which will break the 15 years of crust on the threads. He said to do this about 3 times in 3 different spots. Says it has always worked for him unless someone has previously cranked on the bleeder valve and it started to twist....thanks again.
     
  6. Cavalry

    Cavalry 1/2 ton status

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    upstate NY(although I cant figure out why)
    When you put the new bleeders in, coat the threads in neverseize. They spin right out even after 5 years of NY winters.
     

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