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how to replace body mount rubber

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by tp85, May 22, 2002.

  1. tp85

    tp85 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    What is the best way to replace the body mounts on a 72 blazer? I did a search of the archive, but I could only find little bits and peices...no real comprehensive approach.

    I recall that some may use a jack to lift one side of the body (while the other side is still bolted down) and replace all the mounts on one side. Then move to the other side. Where is the best place to put a jack to raise the body? Since I am not adding a body lift, I probably only need to raise the body just slightly. I don't want to crack the windshield.

    How about the radiator mounts...is this a separate operation? My hardtop has not been on in more than 15 years..is it important to have the hardtop installed for this job?

    Any help or links would be greatly appreciated!
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I would use two bottle jacks to spread the load on the body. The idea is to loosen all the mount bolts on one side of the body including the ones under the rad support. Then remove all the body mount bolts on the other side of the body. Then lift the one side of the body up about 2" or so using a couple of jacks. Use some wood between the body and the jacks to spread the load. Once the new mounts are in install the bolts down that side but not too tight. Now lift the other side and replace those mounts. Once all the mounts have been replaced then tighten all the bolts to spec...

    I'd reinstall the hardtop to help stiffen the body while doing this job.

    Rene
     
  3. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Replacing them is just like Rene said...but
    The bolts will be a pain to take out.
    To get to the rad. core support bolts you need to remove the rad.
    All the bolts are tack welded to the body...I found a dremmel w/ cut off wheel the best way to get in there.
    Some of the sleaves will be rusted to the bolts...for those I drilled off the heads of the bolts and drove them down to get them out.
    It is a good idea to have the top on when you do them...I didn't and my doors are now harder to shut.
    Make sure you put all the factory spacers back where they came from.
    Did you find the bolt sizes?
     
  4. tp85

    tp85 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Thanks for all the help. I plan to purchase the 84 pc kit from LMC for $120. I just want the regular rubber, not the poly. This kit is supposed to come with all bolts, nuts, washers, etc..
     
  5. blazerboy72

    blazerboy72 1/2 ton status

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    it comes with all the bolts but they are generic and very few of them will actually work. i got the same kit. You would be better off to buy the bolts seperate. the washers it comes with will not fit on most of the bolts.
     
  6. swamp donkey

    swamp donkey 1/2 ton status

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    I just did an Energy system two weeks ago. I was replacing a body lift, so my factor bolts were already replaced. What I did discover however (and a little too late) was that you should do one at a time. My Mistake was this. I loosend both sides (good idea), then removed all the bolt from one side. After putting in the new mounts and lowering the jack I found it hard to slide the bolts back down and through the eyes of the new body mounts. Now, my truck is thrashed and the frame may be bent, but still... I would say remove one bolt at a time (okay to loosen all ). That way the new bolt will for sure drop through the eye of the new mount.
    Good luck - mine took me half a saturday, and a million trips to the local hardware store for the right bolts ( I used all grade 8 stuff).
     
  7. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    if you havent had the hard top on for that long,then it would be difficult to put it back on.im not sure how long mine was off but when i bought a new one it took a comealong strap a 2x 4 and a bracket i made to bolt into the seat mount to get the windshied to come up far enuf to get the bolts to line up.

    when i did my body mounts,i loosened all the bolts on the one side and tried to bang them out .but on acount of the rust they didnt come easily.i would say ,spray a bunch of lube on the bolts for a few days before attemping to take them out.then you get a scissor jack and put it in between the frame and the body on that side of the truck.lift it until you can get the old bushings out,and a little bit more to ghet the new ones in.i had to lift mine only about three inches altogether.i still haven't done my rad support yet,but it looks like the radiator has to come out because the bolts come out right under it.hope this helps
     
  8. tp85

    tp85 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    thanks for all the help. i'll get to this job in about a month, and report anything interesting.
     
  9. SHINTON

    SHINTON 1/2 ton status

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    Tom, have you tackled this yet? I am very interested in hearing more about it. I am considering doing a body mount upgrade to the Energy Suspension polys and since I am 'in there' I am thinking seriously of adding 2-3" body lift as well. I am stock otherwise but I think 2-3" will give me enough room for 35s?

    All my leaf springs, etc are original, I am not flexing much so I think 35s will fit after a 2" body lift, certainly after a 3" ??? Guys?

    Sam
     
  10. tp85

    tp85 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I completed the passenger side about a month ago. Then I have been tied up by other projects. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif I hope to finish the other side within a few weeks.

    The biggest problem I ran into was the rear most mount location. The sheetmetal structural box under the bed had rusted to a point of being useless. Additionally, the frame hole (for the rubber mount) had rusted to a much larger hole. So I built a new box to weld to the bed, and repaired the frame. I also painted all of the mount steel (both body and frame sides) with POR15 to help avoid rusting at these locations in the future. The only location that had more than surface rust was the rear most mount. It also looks like I may need add a few shims at various mounts to equalize the loading and keep it straight.
     

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