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Hows this sound ???

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Z3PR, Feb 11, 2003.

  1. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    SB-Chevy Extra Deep 8-Quart
    Application: Most Chevy chassis except 62-67 Chevy II, V8 Vega/Monza and Chevelle with steering linkage behind the crossmember. Best where ground clearance is NOT a problem.
    Features: Extra deep sump for increased oil capacity. Swinging trap door keeps oil in the pickup area. 10-3/4'' deep. "Part # 710-20110" Pre-80 Block Driver Side Dipstick $121.99

    [/ QUOTE ] Moroso. (Jegs) &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; For my 76 K5 with a 400cid small block.
     
  2. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    wish i had one.and i would need a engine cherrypicker to replace what i have now /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif.i have a oilpan leak now that i cant get the oilpan off to get repaired corredctly.
     
  3. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    My rear main just started leaking, so sometime this spring I'll do both front and rear main seals, that deep sump oil pan, and probley a Melling Hi-Volume/Hi-Pressure oil pump.
     
  4. nofeartruckin00

    nofeartruckin00 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    Best where ground clearance is NOT a problem.

    [/ QUOTE ] 8 quarts sounds like it would hang pretty low under the crossmember, otherwise sounds like a good idea.
     
  5. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    10-3/4" deep. But with my 6" suspension lift, I don't think it'll be a problem.
     
  6. nofeartruckin00

    nofeartruckin00 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Then there's only one way to find out /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    What kind of engine do you have? Anything that isn't going to spend every moment of its life being flogged (racing applications) shouldn't need a hopped up oil pump. Its one of those incorrect more is better beliefs. Kind of like an 850 double pumper mechanical secondary Holley on a stock daily driven engine. Higher pressure pumps can make for more leaks. They also rob power because of the increase drag they make. I bet they're a pinch harder on the cam/distributor gear area too. Probably not much, but who knows if its a high mileage engine.
     
  8. Swanson52

    Swanson52 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    They also rob power because of the increase drag they make

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Not a significant enough amount to warrant concern. This goes along with your statement regarding racing applications, where every single HP has an effect on ET. A higher volume/pressure pump will go unnoticed as far as performace in a 7000 pound 4x4. I personally like the higher pressure, both at hot idle and upon startup. Increased oil capacity (regarding the pan)is never a bad thing, but I believe windage trays, crank scrapers and the like are a waste of money on a 4x4.
     
  9. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    David Vizard from "How to Build Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks on a Budget". "The factory stock small-block Chevy pump is effective and reliable, but not perfect. It's a common practice to install a high-pressure, high high-volume pump. In many cases this is simply not necessary and drains power that could be used to lower your ETs.

    The stock oil pump is good to 350 to 375 horsepower, and RPM of 6500 to 6750. Unless your motor will exceed this, it can be used stock unless you want to improve overall performance and cut power cosumption. For engines within the limits, given 40 pounds of oil pressure is all that's required.

    Increasing the oil pressure just to be on the safe side may not prove safe as you think, since it's possible to have too much oil pressure. Unnecessarily raising the oil pressure causes higher oil tempature and greater parasitic losses driving the pump. Look at it this way: the higher oil pressure, the more back pressure there is on the pump trying to stop its turn. This means it takes more power to turn the pump. Not only is excess pressure an obstacle to power production, but also excess volume.

    If the stock pump has adequate volume, installing a high-volume pump, which bypasses all the additional volume, serves only to reudce power output. Consider whether your application needs anything other than the stock pump. If it doesn't, don't spend your money on a higer-volume pressure pump. "
     
  10. Swanson52

    Swanson52 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    In many cases this is simply not necessary and drains power that could be used to lower your ETs.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I'm sure this will be of good use to Paul when he hauls his K5 to Douglas or Bandimere. Until then, I doubt a high volume pump is going to be bad. Most of the case against the pump in those paragraphs cites increased drag on the engine resulting in power loss. Again I ask, what difference will this EVER make on a trail-riding, 7000 pound K5? As to the increased oil temp issue, I ask, how many degrees? Enough to break down the oil prematurely? I would like MJ to weigh in on this topic. Until then, I stick by the 'greater volume is not bad' theory.
     
  11. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

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    In the classic book "How to Hotrod Big Block Chevy's" They say the stock oil system is adequet on ANY big block. I doubt it would be any different for the samll block. Personaly, the only way I would make any modification to the stock oil system is to make a dry-sump system, and that would be a strictly race only type engine.
     
  12. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Keep in mind I use 20/50 oil. I've used the Melling Hi-volume/Hi-pressure oil pumps in every motor I've built. They cost a whole whawping ( 689-M99HVS SB-Chevy High Volume &amp; Pressure ) $42.99 . Up here in the summers, it's nothing uncomman to see day of over 100 degrees, so 20/50 oil with alittle extra pressure and volume at lower RPM's is a good thing in my opinion. This is not a race, or a stock motor, so those books aren't really applicable. I'm going for sheer torque. I'm wanting to keep everything oiled up at lower RPM's. A good oil cooler is also in use. I'm not worried about power loss, it's nothing anyone would ever be able to notice. It's not like I'm running my old 1976 K5 Blazer down the drag strip. I'll be out in a forest exploring. Engine is a 400cid small block with 87,000 miles on it. Thinking I'll rebuild it next fall. 9.5 to 1 compression, a Comp Cams Xtream 4X4 camshaft, steel connecting rods, Cloyes true double roller timming chain, reworked heads with Comp Cams Hi-tech rollor rockers, and a Weiand Stelth intake manifold sounds good to me.
     
  13. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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  14. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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  15. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    [​IMG] I like this Perma-Cool Three Tube Headered Oil Cooler
     
  16. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    I'd go with the 14b FF with a Detroit and the D44 with an ARB...On 37" MTR's. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  17. Chaz88K5

    Chaz88K5 1/2 ton status

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    Being reliable is a major goal for mine. I like to hit the back wood trails that don't see much use. So The mods I'd recomened would be: 3/4 Ton axles (cheaper then 1 Ton, but 1 Ton is better) and either a 4" or 6" suspension lift, and 33" to 36" tires. Now I don't know how you feel about trimming fenders, so I'll leave that one alone. That'll get ya out in the woods.
     
  18. SF87K5

    SF87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Sounds good to me. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I have been looking at the same things for my 350 I am going to be rebuilding. I think the power loss everyone is talking about you would never see.
    I say go with it. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     

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