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Hub Fuses??

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by az-k5, Dec 8, 2003.

  1. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    Has anybody had any luck with these. I have a 3/4 ton D44 and was thinking about locking it (I have 37" MTR and know they will blow up an axle) I wonder if I use the new 760 u-joint will it hold up? What lockers can take a couple of hub fuse blows in a trip? Am I just kidding myself? I really want a D60 because friggin shawn (supersize75) got the deal of the year and now I am jelous /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif Should I just wheel the piss out of a locked 14FF and an open D44 and save for a 60 (I'm thinking that is my answer already) or what?
    Any ideas would help.
     
  2. unick

    unick 1/2 ton status

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    save for the 60!
     
  3. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    Saving for a 60 sounds to be the best idea. you will just keep blowing fuses and the shock will translate to bearings, gears, and the diff. I think my $200 gear matched D60 is the deal of the year.
     
  4. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    I would say get an ARB and drive conservatively. No need to drive like an idiot, that just breaks more and more parts. My friend is running the same tires as you on a locked 10 bolt front with stock shafts and u-joints and he hasnt broken it yet. He's got it bouncing pretty good too.
     
  5. K1Orion

    K1Orion 1/2 ton status

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    ARB??? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
    I'm no accountant but he couldn't he buy a 60 for the price of an ARB and compressor?? /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  6. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    Yes and no. While an ARB may seem expensive, a D60 is still more expensive by the time you factor in wheels, rebuilding it, and regearing it and locking it.
     
  7. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    If you've already got a 3/4 ton axle, wheels won't be necessary. No reason to rebuild it or re gear it when you can usually find one that will suit your needs just nicely. A lockright is $300. Add another $300 for crossover steering and you're good to go.
     
  8. UNCLE CRACKER

    UNCLE CRACKER 1/2 ton status

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    I ran the warn hub fuses on my 3/4 dana 44. I say they are a big waste of money. I ran the 4340 moly axles and broke two of them and never did hurt the hub fuses. I ran a lockright locker and 4.88s. they say the fuses are suposed to break before anything else (cough, cough bullsh*t). anyway I would definetly save for a dana 60. I love mine and havent broke it yet.
     
  9. K1Orion

    K1Orion 1/2 ton status

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    No personal experience with fuses but eveything I've heard is that they don't work like we would like them to. They might be the first thing to go if the wheels were straight and spinning at the same speed, but it seems U-joints usually go first.

    I wish they really worked like we want, I'd buy a set, but it looks like that is not realistic. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  10. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    The only locker that I know of that will handle a hub fuse letting go is the ARB. All the rest will be destroyed from what I understand. I used to run hub fuses when I was open, but now the lock right is in there so the hub fuses are long gone. Choices are ARB, LS, open, save for a 60.

    Harley
     
  11. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    Well I have a lead on a D60 now, but it is not for sure. I was wondering what it is about the fuse that kills a locker? Wouldn't blowing an axle or u-joint give a similar blow to the locker also? I realize that this is the way it is but I just wonder why?
    thanxs for the input everyone /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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