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Hub question

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by PhoenixZorn, Mar 23, 2005.

  1. PhoenixZorn

    PhoenixZorn 1/2 ton status

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    I have autolocking hubs on my blazer... does that mean I don't need to weld my spider gears in the front, or does that just mean I will have a limited slip effect until the tractioned tire catched up to the freewheeler?

    Should I weld up the front end for a daily driver, or do i not need to?

    I have no idea why or how you would weld the spider gears... so could someone post a picture of what it looks like before and after the weld?
     
  2. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    i would never weld the spiders in the front no matter what reason. you don't need anything in the front, but a locker would be alot better than welding.

    the autolocking hubs just mean you don't have to get out and lock the hubs to enguage the front axle. they are prone to not enguaging when you need them.
     
  3. PhoenixZorn

    PhoenixZorn 1/2 ton status

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    I.E. spend the money on locking hubs??

    Why does everyone say to weld the spiders in the front end for offroading?? I know that wheels will spin to the path of least resistance, so if it were posi in the front, you'd not have to worry as much about hanging in the air with one tire and not being able to go anywhere... If I have the truck in 2wd, will the welded front spider still affect the way the wheels behave, or only when it's in 4wd?
     
  4. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    if the hubs are locked, you won't be able to turn in 4wd or 2wd with the welded spiders. both tires will be turning at the same speed all the time.

    everyone that ive heard says to weld the rear, but it tears up tires quick if you drive on the road alot.

    spend $75 and get some warn locking hubs :waytogo:
     
  5. PhoenixZorn

    PhoenixZorn 1/2 ton status

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    What's about Lockrite?? I hear good things about them, and as I understand it, they are made for the front end, no?
     
  6. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    they will work in the front. i plan to put one in sometime this summer.
     
  7. PhoenixZorn

    PhoenixZorn 1/2 ton status

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    I have to mention that my truck will see 90% road time and 10% trail time, so getting something cost effective and still physically effective would be wonderful... I don't know what to do... I am pretty sure I have half ton axles, but I just spent a grand getting my rear end rebuilt a few months ago... the day after I bought the truck actually... towed 2 tons of rock, and then found out the nut that holds the driveshaft in the diff was loose all the way home... 60 miles with a 2 inch nut eating your rear end is not cool at all... When I got home, I took the cover off, and sifted through the remains of the rear end... I found LOTS of metal in the grease.

    Anyway, back to the point... I think I have half ton axles... should I just head to a junk yard and pick up a couple 1 tons or danas and lock them up, or can my k5 be effective on the trails with half tons? I'm also going to do a crossover steering package in the near future for a bit of extra play on the rocks.
     
  8. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    no one who knows what they are talking about is saying that. Classic example of why listening to "everyone" can cause problems...

    if your front end is welded, they will always spin at the same speed on both sides. This is bad when you want to actually turn.

    posis help sometimes, full lockers are the real solution to 1-wheel-in-the-air action.

    no because the tire is turning independantly of the axle shaft/gears etc because the hubs are not engaged.

    j
     
  9. 4trolls

    4trolls 1/2 ton status

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    I dont have a locker in the front, so take this for what its worth ... based on the locker in the rear of my suburban , I will not put a lock-right in the front . In the rear it bangs real hard and it seems like it would be really hard on the front end 'ball joints ,ect...' just my 2cents
     
  10. PhoenixZorn

    PhoenixZorn 1/2 ton status

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    So what is the best course of action for my truck? I'd like to have max traction offroad, and still have a driveable truck when on pavement. I'm running on 31x10.5 BFG Baha's, and they are good tires, but I just don't feel like they are grabbing anything in snow or mud.... I've seen guys here talk about the great traction they get in snow on boggers, so what am I doing wrong? I go up to the state forest a few times a year, and drive on logging roads with very deep ruts the whole time. I plan to get it stuck at least once while I'm there this spring, so I'll need to be able to go where I've never gone before. Which lockers should I get?
     
  11. PhoenixZorn

    PhoenixZorn 1/2 ton status

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  12. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    you can go a LONG ways before you need both tires spinning to get you threw. i suggest save your money on the locker and spend it on something else.
     
  13. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    I got 2 open diffs, and very rarely, have I been in a situation where I needed a locker. Ine time had 1 tire, in each of 4 diff ruts, and hadta slow down for another truck, no momentum, when I hit the gas again, just dug down and sat on the belly. If you want a locker, stick one in the rear and have fun. A 90% street truck doesnt need a locked front axle.
     
  14. dave_90_blazer

    dave_90_blazer 1/2 ton status

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    air locker or similar, $$ though, but the best of both worlds
     
  15. PhoenixZorn

    PhoenixZorn 1/2 ton status

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    I was looking at ARBs... I think they look just about right for my rig, but don't know what they cost... if anyone has an idea for front and rear air locker, It'd be greatly appreciated... Im drunk now, sao if my typing is bad, I;m sorry.... a pri e on front and rear air lockers woudl be great.
     

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