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Hydraulic clutch buildup questions

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by TopOff, Apr 30, 2002.

  1. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    Wohoo!!
    My Hydraulic clutch bellhousing came today. It has the fork, the TO bearing, the bell, and the slave cylinder. GREASY MESS!!!

    Anyways, I was thinking of using the factory pedals and modifying the master Clutch. I haven't bought the master clutch yet, but I assume it is just a simple master with two bolt holes. I think I can just make a bracket off of the OEM clutch pedal, weld on some nuts, and bolt the Master to this, modify a rod and use the rod to push inside the Master clutch?

    Does anyone think this should work with the right fabrication skills (which I have none!)?

    Currently it is an automatic trans... I have just about everything except the master and the master clutch pedals. I have the OEM pre Hydro clutch pedal assembly.

    The OEM Master clutch is $73.95 NEW (no core). If you can find it for less + shipping... LMK! Damn CA tax! It seems someone mentioned the Master new is only $54.00 ... I can't seem to find that thread anymore.

    Anyone do this or something similiar?
    Let me know your thoughts!
    TIA
    TO
     
  2. arq

    arq 1/2 ton status

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    if you talking about the master clutch cylinder, check out <a target="_blank" href=http://www.carparts.com>www.carparts.com</a> i got my master cylinder for around 1/2 of that.

    ARQ.
     
  3. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    Kewl thanks!
     
  4. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    There has to be somebody who has done this on their pre '86 Blazer...right?
     
  5. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Im doing this to my truck right now.... but I used to have an auto tranny (TH400/NP205). I traded my entire old setup for a 465/205 fixes yoke setup with hydro. Included in the deal was a pedal assembly from an 86 with the hydro pedal. I could snap some pics of it out of the truck for you before I install... would that help at all? /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

    One warning though... The folks I talked to regarding my swap warned against using after market parts for the cylinders (both slave, master and the hose), and told me to ONLY buy GM parts. I went with that theory and bought my stuff from www.gmpartsdirect.com. The prices aren't bad, but the shipping costs will sometimes make things more pricy than just wandering over to the dealer themselves.

    My .02 /forums/images/icons/cool.gif

    -Dan
     
  6. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    the GM parts are steel cylinders from Lucas I think, Raybestos replacements are aluminum and therefore less durable.
     
  7. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    Like CRAZY87K5, I too bought most of my parts through www.gmpartsdirect.com ...The master cylinder is GM part number #15615867 and it is like $55 or something before the s&amp;h fee...

    I have a butt-load of GM part numbers so let me know iff you need any and I may have it...I finally have my truck up here (it was about 70 miles away and I could only work on it like 2 times a month) so now that it is up at school with me, I will be getting stuff done here pretty soon...My pedal assembly came out of an '85 K5 with a 6.2L Diesel...It is set up for Hydroboost so I have to swap some of the brake pedal components over from my auto setup but other than that , it is pretty similar to my old auto setup, w/ the exception of the clutch pedal of course /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

    Chris
     
  8. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    Should I get the GM Hydro pedals then? Or do you think I could fab something together?

    It looks like my hardest problem now will be to mount the remote reservoir and line somewhere.
    TIA
    TO
     
  9. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    It would be helpful to have a GM hydro clutch pedal as then you know were to put the hole for the master cylinder linkage on the clutch pedal...If you put the hole too high, you could bottom the pedal and not even disengage the clutch fully...Put the hole too low, and you could bottom the piston in the MC and the pedal may still have like 2 inches under it...If you want, I can measure the distance from the pivot to the MC linkage mounting hole on my clutch pedal...That way you can fab up a hydro system w/ and old linkage-type pedal and still have the correct ratio...For the MC, I believe so other GM MC's have a resivoir mounted on the actual cylinder as opposed to being higher up on the fire-wall...

    Chris
     
  10. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    I think he is trying to retro the old cab,
    so he will be fabbing custom master mount
     
  11. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    I am trying to put this in a '73 cab. I do have the correct year for the mechanical clutch. I can get the hydro clutch pedals. I was told the hydro clutch pedals are quite different from the manual clutch pedals, and there would be a lot of fabrication for the hydro clutch pedals onto the older (pre-86) cabs.

    I guess no one has done this yet?!?!? /forums/images/icons/frown.gif

    Can someone post pics of their hydro clutch?! PLEASE?!

    TIA
    TO
     
  12. Quack_Addict

    Quack_Addict 1/2 ton status

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    I've done what you're talking about to my `84 K20. I think it originally had SM465/NP20X with a linkage clutch, then the bozo I ended up getting the truck from converted it to TH350/NP203 (and did quite the hack job getting it in... I prolly could have done better using only a sledge hammer and a pry bar). I put an SM465/NP205 back in.

    The old clutch pedal was still in the truck when I got it. I bought a hydraulic style bell housing, new clutch fork, hydro pedal, bushings, high pressure line, and reservoir from GM. The master &amp; slave cylinders are aftermarket. I had to move the hydro clutch pedal over to the left (cut the bracket and welded in an ~ shaped piece of steel off the old pedal).

    Something still isn't 100% right with the master cylinder push rod to pedal alignment... after only about a week of use, the push rod broke (don't know if it's the rod alignment or the cheap metal the push rod seems to be made of). I fixed it temporarily by putting a steel sleeve over the rod but it has worked so well I haven't messed with it since.

    I'll take some pics and measurements and post them tomorrow if I get a chance to play with the truck tonight after work.
     
  13. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Quack Addict.

    I think your reasons are why I will go with the factory pedals.

    http://community.webshots.com/photo/13180252/13180415rxtyvTaDUP

    It looks like I will need to get part 11 (maybe 10), 14, 28, 29, 30, and 31.

    Quack_Addict, if your intrested, you might need 10, 11 and 32 too.

    Ugh.. this is co$ting more and more... /forums/images/icons/frown.gif
     
  14. Quack_Addict

    Quack_Addict 1/2 ton status

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    In place of #14 on my truck, I just used washers... same effect (#14 is just a backer plate that goes on from inside the cab).

    #28 is just standard 5/16" fuel line. Hose clamps are optional - it's a low pressure line.

    #29 (2) is just standard sheet metal screws or sheet metal bolts. Drill a small pilot hole and put in whatever works.

    #30 is the reservoir (I think it comes with cap and diaphragm from the dealer as a kit). It's pretty inexpensive (like $15 for the kit) - so getting one from the junk yard isn't worth the trouble in my opinion.

    Definately get #20 (high pressure line) from GM - it's custom bent and fits around everything like the steering column and other stuff perfectly. Make sure it doesn't touch your exhaust / headers when you install it.

    #17 is optional but helps keep water, mud and other crud out of the bell housing.

    #18 use 2 standard 3/8x16 bolts with washers on both sides and Lok-Tite.

    #2 is the steel sleeve that the pivot bolt slides through. Have fun lining it all up /forums/images/icons/wink.gif. I remember lining mine all up was a pain in the azz /forums/images/icons/mad.gif.

    #1 are plastic bushings that go around the steel sleeve and kinda act like cheap bearings.

    #4 is a return spring - I bought one but couldn't get it to work so I left it out. Quite honestly, you can do without it. The pedal still comes up fine without it.

    I don't know if I'll be able to get pictures tonight... my girlfriend grenaded a tire this morning on her car and I have to go get her a new set of shoes put on.
     
  15. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    Sweet! Thanks again for the info Quack Addict.

    I orderd #30 ($15.00).

    I am going to do the fuel line hose, like you suggested (Dealer $28.60).
    31 is no longer available. Fabrication time!
    ORdred #10 &amp; #11. Dealer said the rod, is part of the Master Cylinder #27 ($120.00)
    So it looks like the rest I can fabricate, I think I have #17 from my previous bell housing. though it looks like crap.
    I am feeling better on the fabrication parts, thanks to your posts Quack_addict. I appreciate it!
    All this will take till the \middle of next week to get to me. So it looks like I get to start cleaning the bellhousing, and taking out the front driveshaft, and getting it all ready!

    Woohoo. I hope it goes fairly smooth.
    Wish me luck!
     
  16. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    I have gone the other way, I had my old clutch pedals in the new cab.
    they bolt up fine.
    it is the master cylinder mounting that you will have fun with
     

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