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Hydraulic clutch stuff needed

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by dyeager535, Dec 22, 2000.

  1. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Looking for all the components from a mid 80's C/K truck for the hydraulic clutch. Individual components considered. Thanks!
     
  2. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Are you doing a manual to hydraulic linkage swap??

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  3. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Well, either contemplating it for my dad, or having spare parts on hand for myself. Already put hydraulic in my K5 (original auto truck, then was going to be mechanical linkage, but '86 wasn't made for mechanical linkage, and found a hydraulic setup) was thinking about it for my dad also, since his mechanical linkage is messed up. Why do you ask?
     
  4. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Well I have mechanical in my 72 and was just curious as to if you knew if this could be done?? I can see my curent linkage mess as being a show stoper on a ruff trail! So thinking I may want to 'modernize' it with hydralic????

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  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    To be honest, I only know that it would work relatively hassle free on the 73-91 K5's. The pedals are a direct swap, but the mechanical setup has the pushrod through the floor. Hydraulic goes straight through the firewall, and the master cylinder for the clutch is bolted to two additional studs that are added on the hydraulic pedal assembly. So if the pedals bolt in, the studs MIGHT be the right length also. If there are substantial firewall differences, it may be difficult to do. Other than that its a snap, since there is no more linkage, only hydraulic line to the hydraulic only bellhousing, which the slave cylinder is bolted directly too. It is a very clean install though, and works better than any mechanical setup I have ever used in a truck, and rivals that in cars for smoothness of engagement. Cheap source for the master cylinder might be the S-10's if you were thinking of doing mods. The master cylinder and reservoir appear to be very similar, although not the same part number. After buying an aftermarket master cylinder, I think I know why. The S-10 probably has a shorter rod to the pedals, the aftermarket unit had a screw adjustable rod to the master cylinder, which the factory C/K unit did not.
     
  6. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Ahhh so you would have to swap out the bell housing??!!
    I've never inspectied or seen a hayro setup before but from what your saying is I had a bell housing swaped and the fire wall issue then thoes are the two major mods to accomplesh to pull this off. Might be eaisier to carry spare linkage with me for trail repairs.... I put a Centerforce cluch in about 5yrs ago and man that job was a royal pain in the keester[​IMG]

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  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Yes, bellhousing swap is kinda a pain, (I did it before I even put the drivetrain in the truck) and the firewall issue might be a nightmare, so spare linkage is probably easier to deal with in the long run. I'm glad I went hydraulic though!
     

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