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Hydro clutch questions (not what parts, just technical stuff)

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BigOrange90Jimmy, May 5, 2003.

  1. BigOrange90Jimmy

    BigOrange90Jimmy 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I picked up my hydro 465 setup (tranny, pedals, lines, steering column, 465/205 roundbolt adapter) this weekend and I have some questions about it.

    On the input shaft, how much play should be in it. None at all? I can grab the input and pick up on it and feel some movement. I think I'm in need of a rebuild for the entire 465. What do you think?

    The input bearing retainer, the part that the throw-out bearing rides on, it should be totally smooth right? Mine has like two little waves in it that worry me. Tell me your thoughts.

    I got the setup with a used clutch. The PO claims he only put 3K miles on it, but I'm skeptical about using it. I'm thinking of just replacing it so I don't have to worry about it.

    I also got the flywheel with it. How many times can you machine a hydraulic flywheel before you should replace it. He had it resurfaced when he replaced the clutch, but I'm considering doing it again before I put it in. Your feelings on this?

    This tranny came from a 91 1 ton truck. Would this tranny still be affected by the 3rd gear pop-out or had GM figured it out by then?

    This is all going in my 87 K5 that'll be 3/4 ton with 3.73's and 33" tires. Should I go with a Stage 1 Centerforce clutch or will a stock replacement be sufficient?

    I'm sure I have more questions, but I can't really think of any right now.

    Oh yeah I do, where's the best place right now to get a 465 rebuild kit right now and does anyone need a 465/205 round bolt pattern adapter?
     
  2. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    On the input shaft, how much play should be in it.
    the pilot bearing supports the front of the shaft when installed. there will be some movement.

    I think I'm in need of a rebuild for the entire 465. What do you think?
    I doubt it. all they do when rebuilding is rebearing it(often they decide the old ones are 'good enough' /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif) and perhaps replace the blocker rings
    if you have real shifting issues then I would consider it but you will be ripped off unless one of the guys here does it for you


    The input bearing retainer, the part that the throw-out bearing rides on, it should be totally smooth right? Mine has like two little waves in it that worry me. Tell me your thoughts.
    this can cause the throwout bearing to hang up. replace it

    I got the setup with a used clutch. The PO claims he only put 3K miles on it
    you can get 10 years from a clutch, cheap insurance to replace it though

    Would this tranny still be affected by the 3rd gear pop-out or had GM figured it out by then?
    IMO that is a symptom of the shift forks losing the nylon coating and not allowing full engagement of the gear but I have not had that problem with my 1977 vintage trannyeven tho the coating was in rough shape. new forks are available but not included in a 'rebuild' usually /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

    Should I go with a Stage 1 Centerforce clutch or will a stock replacement be sufficient?
    Centerforce is a total GIMIC. if you want to spend a boatload of $$ get a Ram or McLeod setup.
    I would just get a good Luk diaphragm reman setup and be done with it(that is what a Centerforce is. a reboxed Luk)
     
  3. BigOrange90Jimmy

    BigOrange90Jimmy 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    word. you da man.

    will ANY input bearing retainer work, or do I have to have a Hydro-specific one and where might I find one?

    what happened to your webshots pages with all of the diagrams on it? those were very useful...
     
  4. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    Everything that MJ said... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    and listen to him on the clutch!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif I looked into the Ram, Mcleod, and Centerforce clutches when i did my swap and chose a Centerforce Dual Friction...big mistake...cost a sh!t load for a piece of crap re-boxed LUK pressure plate with stupid-azz weights /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif...those damn weights on the pressure plates are all jacked up on mine now and the pedal feels great with the motor off but as soon as you start the engine it feel like crap and you have to bury the pedal in the carpet just to get it to release...

    Your flywheel should be good for machining a few more times..it should have a minimun thickness cast onto the OD of the wheel... Spend a few bucks and get it machined....

    And toss the old clutch...I agrre that a new clutch is cheap insurance...You can get a LUK RepSet clutch for like $135...

    A input bearing retainer from ANY sm465 should work...I think you can get them new from GM for less than $35, i think...

    Chris
     
  5. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    I am a cheap bastard and didnt want to pay for their service so they deleted the images.
    many of them are still on my HDD.
    I was going to use my spare computer with a 30gigHDD to host them(and a ton more) with Krazie87K5's help (thank you very much for all your help Dan)
    but I am uncertain I want to leave it running online unattended with all the 'friends' I have found here.
     
  6. BigOrange90Jimmy

    BigOrange90Jimmy 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    So both the LUK and the Centerforce clutches are crap? I really don't want to put something that's so-so in this truck. It's going to be my tow rig/Water Rescue/weekend beater/daily driver so I need it to be reliable.

    I understand about not wanting to leave the comp on m j. I'd be skeptical no matter who was looking at it.

    Thanks for the help fellas.
     
  7. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    No, basically the Center Force Dual friction clutch (which is like $290 for our trucks) are simply a modified disc with a LUK pressure plate and some weights added on...So you are paying about $300 for a clutch you could get for around $100....My clutch would be fine if it didn't have those damn weights on it...

    LUK clutchs are great (infact they are the suppliers for many of the OE clutchs for many car companies), but MJ is dead nutz with his comment about the Centerforce being a gimic.... With only 33's and 3.73s, I don't think you need to spring for the McLeod...

    I am putting a LUK ProGold behind my built 454 that is going in my truck...It is basically the LUK RepSet clutch with beefier springs in the pressure plate same disc as the RepSet though...
     
  8. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    I ain't no expert and i don't have Hydro setup, still old school manual. I just wanted to say that I have been running a CenterForce II cluch kit in my 465 sence '94. I replaced the old 3fork style pressure plate when the cluch disk whent out on me. The CFII cluch has worked GREAT with zero issues all thease years. Hell I still have not even had to re-adjust the linkage in all this time/use.
    Anyway just wanted to give you my .02.5c worth.
     

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