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I am pulling a TPI this weekend, any tips?

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 72Blazerod, Oct 23, 2001.

  1. 72Blazerod

    72Blazerod 1/2 ton status

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    All this great talk about TPIs got my blood flowing enough to go out and buy one. In fact it is still in the 1987 IROC right now. The deal is that I have to pull it. So what are ALL the pieces that I am going to need to take out? I don't want to forget anything because the car is about 800 miles away from my house. Where is the VSS and how do I get to it? Should I try to get the fuel pump out of the tank? Any other info or descriptions of bits and pieces would really be appreciated!!!!!!

    Thanks guys, you're the best!!!

    Rod

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  2. therobzilla

    therobzilla 1/2 ton status

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    Rod,

    Here is my two cents. First off don't cut any more wires than you have to when pulling the setup. The less wires you cut during the removal the easier it is down the road.

    1. The VSS is located where the speedo cable comes into the transmission. It's located between the speedo cable and the trans. Remove it and don't forget the O Rings.
    2. The fuel pump is in the gas tank, and yes it's a job to remove it. The question that you have to ask youself is do you have an additional $165 bucks to by an external one after the fact. External or internal pumps run between $125 to $165. That's not including the fuel filter. The TPI filters are designed for the higher pressure the TPI's generate.
    3. Don't forget the air duct plumbing if it's a Mass Air Flow system. The MAF sensor is located in this plumbing.
    4. Make sure you get the O2 sensor off the exhuast manifold.
    5. Make sure you get the ECM with all wires and hookups.
    6. Make sure you get the throttle cable and the transmission kickdown cable if it's an automatic.
    7. Make sure you get the flexible fuel lines that connect to the intake manifold. These are very expensive to replace.
    8. Get the distributor and all the wires included with the distribuitor.
    9. Don't forget any of the relays that are used with the harness especially the fuel pump relays.
    10. If the donor car has elect fans take them as well and all the wires associated with them. The TPI's run hot as a norm.
    11. If you are feeling real brave, get the cam out of the motor if you can, it's harder to do but since you are taking the manifold off, it's not that hard to steal the cam. If it's a speed density system, and the motor you are putting it on is not, then you will have to replace the cam in the new motor anyway. If you are going to take the complete motor and TPI setup, don't worry about it.
    12. Make sure you take all of the EGR system hoses, these are always forgotton and they are molded hoses that are much more expensive than you would imagine. Take as many of the hoses you can possiblely without cutting them.
    13. Make sure if you are only taking the TPI setup, you take the clamps off the block for the wiring harness. The harness is a real pain to keep in the right place when you do the retrofit.
    14. Don't forget to bring metric tools for the removal. TPI's use metric and the also use Thorx wrenches to remove the intake manifold.
    15. Bring some duct tape with a permanant marker for the wires you cut. Label everything, you will forget I promise you, and the wiring diagrams are a real pain to read through.
    16. If the donor car has cruise control, take it, you may want to retrofit down the road. You may also consider the serpintine belt setup, it's pretty sweet. I regret not using the stock setup, I had the chance to take it and I didn't.
    17. What every you do, try not to break any of the sensors, they are expensive to replace.

    I hope this will help you with your project. I have retrofitted two TPI's now and each time I learn someting new. These tips should help ease the pain.

    Good Luck and let me know how it turns out.

    Robzilla
     
  3. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    Damn why not just take the whole car and sell the seats, and body

    Like em big and topless
    Excuse me...Would you mind removing your import from under my chevy?
     
  4. 72Blazerod

    72Blazerod 1/2 ton status

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    I am actually taking the whole engine. So (I think this should be a bit easier). Thnaks for the great info! I am printing up a copy of this to take with me on my road trip. I tell you guys how it went when I get back!

    Thanks again,

    Rod

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  5. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    If it's a hydraulic roller motor, the camshaft will not fit your engine so you won't be able to use it. '87 is supposed to be the year of the changeover, so you probably can't use that.

    The simple rule of thumb is to take EVERYTHING that is attached by wires to the ECM. Don't forget to get the ALDL connector. Get the charcoal canister and the solenoids. Get all of the ducting and MAF. Get the relay tree that's mounted outboard of the brake booster. Get the entire engine harness from the ECM to the injectors/evap. can/MAF. If you can get it out, get the knock sensor (if the engine is a 305, forget it, since the 350 uses a different knock sensor).

    It's going to have the large body HEI, so that may or may not fit well into your Blazer's engine compartment. You *might* want to re-wire the harness to work with one of the later ('89-'92) small body HEIs.
     

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