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i hate electrical problems...dead 82 k5.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by vortec, Feb 26, 2007.

  1. vortec

    vortec 1/2 ton status

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    it ran fine on friday. tried to start it sunday, and it wouldn't start. barely a groan from the starter. i thought the neutral safety switch or starter relay had just died on me. but then the dash lights wouldn't even come on. things i've installed that are bypass the run circuit and fuse block (offroad lights, starter) and are fused independently work fine. the wire running form the battery through the firewall had a blown 30 amp fuse. i only had 20amp, so i stuck one in. turned key to run. dash lights came on. did it again. nothing. the 20 amp fuse did not blow. wierd. so, ignition cylinder sounds more feasible. but, that doesn't explain why the headlights won't work. it just seems like all power to the dash switches is down. fuse block fuses are fine. battery voltage is fine. enought to run 2 100 watt offroad lights.

    if someone has an idea that could save me some time digging and testing circuits, i'd appreciate it. thanks
     
  2. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Sounds like a blown fusable link or ground issue.. check power at the junction block above the master cylinder.. did it turn over at all?
     
  3. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    I concur
     
  4. vortec

    vortec 1/2 ton status

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    i tried similar checks. i can get readings sometimes, but other times not. it's inconsistent, like a broken wire that's swinging and will sometimes make contact. but, there isn't any motion to move the dang thing, in this case.

    i swapped all the fusible links near the battery for blade fuses, a few years ago. i only found that one bad fuse, last night, and replacing it didn't really help.

    i couldn't find any loose or corroded ground points, last night.

    chasing down gremlins blows...especially in the dark (sun is down when i get home from work)

    thanks guys.
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2007
  5. gmcman

    gmcman Registered Member

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    electrical problem

    Try checking the wire from the battery to the starter solinoid.I kind of had the same problem one time. Jumped in the truck one day and turned the key and all I got was a click from the soleinoid and then everything went dead. Found bad connection in the wire at the starter. Hope this helps!
     
  6. dmanblazer

    dmanblazer 1/2 ton status

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    All your fuseable links are at the starter also.
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I've known fusible links to "partially" die. Check continuity while moving the wires around, if you can.
     
  8. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Quick test for fried fusible links...

    You can "bypass" the fusible links temporarily for test purposes, by using a jumper cable from the battery + terminal ,to the junction block on the firewall next to the power brake booster..if everything works with it "jumped",then you can be sure the fusible links got toasted..(note--on some trucks there is another fusible link at that junction block--if that one is fried,you'll need to replace it before my "test" will work)..

    USE EXTREME CAUTION!!!..this will allow wires to BURN if they are dead shorted!..if you get a heavy spark when you jump the battery to the junction block,it's a good bet some wires shorted to ground somewhere (what fried the fuse links in the first place most likely!)...so DO NOT leave the jumper connected for long if you think there is a short,or you'll risk burning your truck up,or at least replacing a lot of the wiring harness!...:doah: ..I am not responsible for any damage, if you use my method of "testing"!..

    I "rewire" my GM trucks by removing the two thick red wires that bolt to the solenoid under the positive battery cable,and run them directly to the positive battery terminal (just like GM USED to,in the 60's!)...you might have to lengthen the wires to reach the battery..leave the fuse links in the wires (if they are good,if not replace them)...now those wires and fuse links wont roast on the exhaust manifold in that stupid "conduit" pipe,which is the cause of 90% of all fusible link failures in the 73-87 trucks,IMO--...and much easier to replace the fuse links if you have another meltdown!..:crazy:
     
  9. vortec

    vortec 1/2 ton status

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    based on what's happening (or not happening) it appears that the hot lead for the fuse block is FUBAR. starter lead would not affect the headlights or dash lights. ignition cylinder would affect starter and dash, but not headlights. neutral position switch would affect starter, but not headlights and dashlights. everything bypassing the fuse block still works great. i still find it strange that sitting in the driveway for 24 hours killed it.

    now, i just have to get the time to dig in and fix the dang thing. and looking at it with sunlight might help. work blows.
     
  10. vortec

    vortec 1/2 ton status

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    good stuff, diesel4me. thanks. i won't fry my circuits. i fuse my jumper wires for just that reason, so you're off the hook.

    i like the idea of the rewire. i enjoy electrical upgrading, just not the hassles of finding electrical failures...in the dark (my sister accidentally ran over my droplight the last time she was in town :doah:).

    i'll take a look for that second fusible link.

    thanks.
     

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