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I know this has been talked about before....single drop front flex line.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Pure Insanity, Apr 27, 2003.

  1. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    As the title says, I know its been talked about in the past but Im wondering if anyone has actually DONE it. I dont recall any POSTS about it, just random comments in other posts. I could be wrong tho.

    Single flex line from the center under the engine then hard lineing to the wheels like the rear has.

    Itll still require the flex lines on the end for the wheels to turn, but the center wont pull near as deep as the axle ends do on droop. It should work fine, IIRC older Dodges were set up like this.
     
  2. willyswanter

    willyswanter 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    So far I haven't found a reason not to do it. I plan on doing it with the willys with a single large line ran down one of the center links then short flex lines at each end. Will help keep everything out of harms way.
     
  3. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    Thats exactly what I was thinking. Ive had brake issues on the brain lately. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif Between finding what may be an OEM LOONG rear flex line, and thinking of going rear disks, and now this. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    I think it should work fine myself. Hopefully there will be some feedback from someone that HAS done it. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. outlaw612

    outlaw612 1/2 ton status

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    A friend of mine has a Bronco II on a chevy 3/4 ton chassis and his has the single brake line in the center of the front axle. I dont really see any benefit of 1 over the other.
     
  5. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    Well w/ 2 lines youll have to have long lines at the wheels like a GM is set up now. W/ a single drop in the center youll only need 1 long line in the center that can drop w/ the vent line instead of having2 that have to be wire tied bungied or whatever to keep the long lines out of the way of things like steering tires ETC.

    The CENTER of the axle will only drop so much, whereas the wheel ends are forced to drop much further when flexing the suspension.
     
  6. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I've also had tires break the bead and take out the brakeline with it. Iplan on doing this mod when I can. I thinks its a great idea.
     
  7. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    I never thought about a bead taking out a brake line.

    Im gonna look more into this and when I do the rear brakes Ill prob do this too.

    What I really wish is I had someone run PI up the ramp for me when I hit the ramp a few weeks ago so that I could have gotten a look under it. When I got down I asked the guy spotting me what he seen under there so I would know what needed changes. I got "Uhhh I didnt pay attention" GRRRR! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
     
  8. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    only a single line from the master to the combo valve, so no greater restriction then factory setup.
     
  9. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    I know Ive looked at it before but cant remember and its dark out now, is it at the combo valve that the 1 line goes to 2 for the front or is there a splitter after the combo valve?

    If the line splits AT the valve, what should be done? A block off plug on 1 of the ports?
     
  10. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    On 1st Gens the combo valve is right next to the MC. It has 1 front line in and out (and a bleeder valve in the other hole) and a "T" at the engine cross member.

    On a 2nd Gen the combo valve is on the engine cross member. It has 1 front line in and 2 out (the other where the bleeder is on the 1st gen) and no "T".

    I believe 1st and 2nd gen combo valves are the same. That means all you would have to do is get a bleeder valve (with a inverse flare on the end?) from the parts store and another rear line...for me all I have to do is ditch the "T".
     

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