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i need better u-joints!!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by xnoahx, Aug 27, 2002.

  1. xnoahx

    xnoahx 1/2 ton status

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    Most of this is a rant, go to the next paragraph for the question. I was driving down the freeway today, taking my brother to the parts store and i noticed that vibe that means that one of my u-joints is going to go out so I pull off the road and take a look. The cross on the t-case end of my rear shaft is almost all the way out of the cap, the same joint that i replaced about 2 weeks ago /forums/images/icons/mad.gif . So I get part of a driveshaft that I have with me(did I mention this has happened before) and pound out the old busted joint of the slip yoke with the driveshaft(I need to carry a hammer with me /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif ). I take the good(meaing not broken) u joint out of the drive shaft i just used as a hammer(using the slip yoke as my hammer now /forums/images/icons/smirk.gif ) and put it into the slip yoke and put it back on the truck. I did all this on the side of the freeway with only a $20 tool kit from target even though i just needed some needle nose pliers, a half inch wrench, and a 5/8" socket. A bench vise would have made this much easier too.

    So the question is, where can I get some good u-joints, better than the parts store crap that didnt even last me two weeks. And what are some strong u-joints, I was thinking spicer, but any other ones that i should be aware of? Also, I could use a part number on a spicer joint if you know it off the top of your head. this is the fourth one ive had to change and im getting tired of it. I know I can get a CV shaft but thats a bit of money that I would like to spend on gears /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  2. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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  3. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Get some from CTM Racing....you will NEVER be able to break their joints!! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
     
  4. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Check your driveshaft and t-case yokes for wear/spreading. Also make sure your driveshaft is phased correctly (u-joints inline with each other). As mj stated, even a bad u-joint should last longer than that. Did you get greasable u-joints or sealed ones? I just had a u-joint (greasable) go on me because the grease did not reach one of the caps. I found a chunk of metal in the u-joint that prevented grease flow and NAPA warranteed it for me free of charge (it was a NAPA "Brute Strength" joint). I have used them in my rigs and this is the first one I ever had a "problem" with. My 80 is now all Spicer joints (thanks Jesse), but it was NAPA Brute Strength and I never had a problem (just decided to upgrade when I went more HP/Torque).
     
  5. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    If the caps are coming out, you must be losing a snap ring. You should figure out why. Also, are your angles way off or are they close to the same at both ends of the shaft?
     
  6. xnoahx

    xnoahx 1/2 ton status

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    Well, ive got a 4 inch lift so angles arent too extreme, Eveything also looks good on the driveshaft. Ill just have t keep an eye on things.
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Assuming 12bolt with straps to retain the u-joints, I totally concur that you check yoke condition.

    If a PO put the straps over the C-clip that retains the u-joint to the axle, the straps will be stretched, which alone will cause problems, but on mine, that had also allowed the yoke surfaces where the c-clip is *supposed* to ride, erode, and joints lasted about 2 weeks as well.

    Once I put another joint in, and checked for play BEFORE driving it anymore, I noticed that there was still slop in the setup, and that it was from the yoke/straps being shot.
     
  8. jstevenj

    jstevenj Registered Member

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    You most likely have one of two problems:

    1) Your ujoints are out of phase. If you rotate the drive shaft to where the cup is in the 12 o'clock position on the tcase, the cup on the other end should also be in the 12 o'clock position. If they are 90 degrees out you have big trouble. The more angle you have on the drive shaft, the more trouble this will cause.

    2) The drive shaft is bent at a different angle on one end than the other. As the drive shaft rotates it speeds up and slows down as the ujoint makes one revelution. The greater the angle, the more difference there will be in the speed up and slow down. If one end is bent more than the other then the ends will be fighting each other.

    Hope this helps.
     
  9. RedDwarf

    RedDwarf 1/2 ton status

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    Hard to beat Spicer for Driveshaft u joints
     
  10. RESTORE89

    RESTORE89 1/2 ton status

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    i blew a few napa joints in a couple weeks, then went to dana spicers and good for
    about 4 months now.
    paid the same for the spicers as the napa when i bopught from a drive shop
     
  11. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    the whole NAPA thing has me stumped
    why do so many run the no name reboxed stuff when they can have premium for near the same $$
     
  12. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Something is causing this to happen becides the u-joint. I run $14 Brute forces from Auto Zone and never had an issue and I'm 6 inches of lift on the rear. If you have a 208 then there are all snap rings holding the caps. THe snap ring has to be coming out for the cap to come out. You sure your getting the cap all the way in? I use a press and I often have to install the snap ring and then put it back in the press a little to get the snap ring to pop into place. One the yokes with a u-bolt or trap there is a tab to prevent the cap from walking out. If the tab is missing then the yoke needs to be replaced.
     
  13. RedDwarf

    RedDwarf 1/2 ton status

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    In defense of the NAPA joints, I have to say I think their caps are pretty strong. I had one destroy the needle bearings (powder) but the caps held together for a couple weeks (popping).

    I still much prefer Spicer though.
     
  14. xnoahx

    xnoahx 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, a quick question, what is the part # for the spicer joints?
     
  15. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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  16. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I run Neapco HD joints. My driveline guy says that they're just as good as Spicers.
     
  17. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    your driveline guy is a liar
     
  18. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Yeah well he sells both, so I wouldn't think he has anything to benefit from it.

    He makes shafts for all the professional pulling trucks in this area too and has had no problems (they run Neapco too).

    So, go ahead, run your mouth like you usually do. He could have sold me the Spicers, but he didn't.

    He stocks both and he's still cheaper than going to the store for joints!
     
  19. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    OH yeah if anyone is wondering a 1350 Neapco is a 2-0053 HD.
     
  20. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    bet his margin is better on the neapco which is why he sold them to you.
    I had a driveline shop try and pull that with me last year
    put them side by side and then tell me they are just as good
    then chack out the new spicer LIFE series beside the Neapco and try and claim they are just as good
    after you do that come back and feast on your BS
     

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