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I need HELP..Electrical Identification

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by wsudu, Jun 19, 2001.

  1. wsudu

    wsudu Registered Member

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    Ok..I have an 83' ....On the firewall, drivers side...There is a 2 studed box. It's black with two threaded posts sticking out of it. This tiny box has 3 wires hooked up to it....I think its for the cab power...Anyway I have no power to it and the Blazer won't start....Help Me
     
  2. K5RON

    K5RON 1/2 ton status

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    Give some details(symtoms) about your "no start" problem! Do you have lights? Does the starter turn? etc.

    I think your right about that "power" block.

    Ron
     
  3. bablazer73

    bablazer73 1/2 ton status

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    It's just a wire juction block. If you have no pwer going to it, check the fusable links on the starter. The wires are attached to the big lug on the starter. I think there are 3.

    your right. I don't understand the jeep thing!
     
  4. 2Dogs

    2Dogs 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    No power with the ignition on....?
    Give us some mor info like K5Ron suggests -
    Does it turn over?
    Does the starter 'click' if it is not cranking?

    Dave

    Don't Be Sexist - Broads Hate That
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Yes your correct. There should be 12v there all the time. The power routes like this. From the battery the cable leads to the starter. At the starter are is 2-3 wires that attach at the same post. These wires have fusable links that tie into the rest of the vehicles electricla system. These can fail for a number of reasons. First being they are close to the exhaust system and the insulation gets burned off. There is a tube that thes wires are routed through for protection from the exhaust that is a pain in the but to secure to the bellhousing. Often it is left loose and it chafes on the wires causing a short. both these issues result in one or more of the Fusable links to fry. Another possiblitly is the Alternator fried and blew the fusable link.
    Now my guess is recently you had some work done on your truck either a motor or tranny being pulled or the starter being replaced. check that work and the area around it and you should find the problem. The dealer can get the fusable link for you.
    Also don't discount a grounding problem. If the gorund cable has a poor connection then you will read 0 volts even the the positive has a good connection but your trying to use the body as a ground.
    The ground routes like this. From the battery the cable bolts to either the alternator bracket or a bolt on the head or block in that area. Often there is a pig tale that goes to the Core suport. The Tub has a ground strap on the fire wall behind the passengerside head. it connects to the head off a wire mesh ground strap. You have to feel behind the head for the strap as it is not easily seen and often it is not hooked back up after the engine has been removed since the engine blocks your view. It can cause all sorts of elecrical problems but the truck will start and run even if it is not connected.

    It's not my damn planet monkey boy!
    Grim-Reaper
     
  6. wsudu

    wsudu Registered Member

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    It's cool...I have it all fixed...See I thought at first that the cable to that box came loose....Next I thought that the cable to the starter was loose......Actually, it was the ground like Grim mentioned......The shitty thing is that the power cable to the starter isn't a circle, but a half moon.....So I have been trying to tighten that nut down while I holding that end in place while the headers are in the way....Damn....Sometimes I ask myself if its worth it...HELL YES....It might be ugly, but it's got HorsePower!....Thanks guys
     
  7. restore892

    restore892 Newbie

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    had a similar on my 89
    turned out to be a corroded connection at the starter. rather than deal with the fusible links and the tube behind the manifold, i ran a new wire directly from the positive terminal on the battery, beside the fender and across the firwall straight to the juncton block. use a #10 red wire and put an inline fuse near the junction block. the places gm would think to put a fusible link. since i did this my rear window seems to work faster???? low voltage before maybe???
    real user name
    restore 89
    not real good on the comp, and could not log in at home with different email address, because i forgot my password
    good luck
    chris
     

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