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I think I messed up.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 69K5, Apr 29, 2004.

  1. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    first let me say i have only a rough idea of how to do this, but i love to take stuff apart.
    /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
    I took the third member out of my eaton to put in the locker. in my excitement I took the bearing caps off, and started to take the carrier out. I forgot to measure the backlash. can i just put it back in and check it or do i have to start from scratch. i didnt move anything else. If it doesnt nmatter I am gonna feel stupid. How do i find what the backlash should be? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

    thanks

    69k5
     
  2. Highjaxx

    Highjaxx 1/2 ton status

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    I'm no expert, I'm guessing.

    As far as I know there should be information in manuals for these trucks. Check at the parts store. If all else fails set it between .005 and .010, or as close as you can get.

    All the other shims and adjustments rely on your "gear pattern"(the stuff with the paint). /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif

    Good luck- Like I said these are only guesses.
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    As long as you put it back together the way you took it out, it will be fine.

    Just make sure any shims or adjustments you've made are put back where they were before you started.
     
  4. mogas

    mogas 1/2 ton status

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    You should be close if you transfer the shims from one differential to the other, I would check the backlash and the pattern just to make sure there isn't too much slop or misalignment.
    If you go to here: http://www.ringpinion.com/ and look under the tech library you should find what your specifications are. I have a book around here somewhere with a whole bunch of differential specs, I'll try to find it and let you know what they are supposed to be.
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Oops I just realized I gave some bad advice.

    If you're changing carriers you're going to have to set the gears up again without question. It would not be a good idea at all to just put everything back together and hope for the best.

    If you removed carrier #1 from your axle and decided you wanted to put carrier #1 back in, you can put it back in without problems.

    If you remove carrier #1 from your axle and you decide you want to put the ring gear on carrier #2 and put it in the same housing, you need to set gears up again.

    Please disreguard my last post as it was in haste.
     
  6. mogas

    mogas 1/2 ton status

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    But you don't need to set pinion depth again unless you are swapping gears too and that is the biggest problem without the right tools.
    If it were me I would check the pinion preload while the diff is out and if it is good and you don't need a new seal then swap the shims from the old diff to the new then check B/L if in spec, ckeck pattern. The pattern SHOULD be real close as long as the gears aren't worn badly because most of your mesh alignment (pattern) is from pinion depth. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  7. unclematty

    unclematty 1/2 ton status

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    Lets clear the air a little here. 1 all carriers are not created equal, nor are the housings. that's what shim are for. if you change housings or carriers then you have to measure and adjust again. unless youi like blowing stuff up. one mans opinion
     
  8. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    well its the same housing and carrier. I am just putting the no spin in. the only thing i have taken off is the caps. it looks like i have to take the pinion before i can get the carrier to come out. i did however find some pitting on the gears. how bad is that. the truck had been sitting for a long tome.


    thanks for all the help.
    69k5
     
  9. mogas

    mogas 1/2 ton status

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    If you are not changing the gear set or putting the ring gear on a different differential unit then put it back and everything will be the same as before disasembled.If you are putting the ring gear on a different unit you will need to check / adjust backlash. I didn't say to just put it together and it is race ready, but if you put the shimpacks from your old diff on the same sides as your new it should get you CLOSE and is a good starting point.
    I hope you marked your differential bearing caps, because that is crucial that they are put back on the correct sides and positions
     
  10. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    all im doing is removing the spiders and installing the no spin. everything else will be the exact same going in. I did mark the bearing caps before i removed them. do i have tp remove the pinion to get the carrier out or just wiggle it right?

    Mogas if you find that book the axel is an ho72 or 52 out of a 72 K20 with 4.56 gears.

    thanks
     
  11. mogas

    mogas 1/2 ton status

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    You can't remove the pinion without first removing the differential. If the seal isn't leaking leave the pinion alone.

    It may be a tight fit there is usually a little preload on the side bearings. I used to wiggle and pry till they come out but I bought a spreader that spreads the case very sligthly <.015" so it is easier to remove and install them.
    You do have the axleshafts out don't you??????

    I'm still looking for my book.
     
  12. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    I didnt touch the pinion. the ring gear thrust pad (?) is what was holding me up. i backed the sleeve out a little and she came right out. i didnt move the adjustment screw so it would still be close. and the carrie came right out. my fsm from 74 has a 12 1/4 diff that is identical to mine except fotr the size. all the specs are almost identical with a 60 as well so i will use that for a ref as much as possible.

    thanks again

    69k5
     

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