Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

I want to beef up the truck!?!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BranndonC, Oct 20, 2002.

  1. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2002
    Posts:
    8,591
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anaheim, Ca
    My 89 is pretty stock (besides lift and tires) and i just started haveing a pretty steady income of about 750-900 a month spending money on top of my bills, so that said, i can easily get like 1800 in 2 months and so on. My question is what's my next move? I drive it like 95% street and 4% sand (pismo beach) and 1% what ever i can find. I don't know what i should spend the $$$ on since i can't really wheel much and it's my daily driver. my choices are as followes
    12 Bolt with 4.56's and D44 with 4.56's
    14 bolt with 4.56's and D44 or is needed d60, but i don't think i'll want a D60
    My truck seems kinda week now and the engine has over 160,000 on it and was looking into new engines, but don't know if that's needed or not. i was thinking of a 454 but someone said it wouldn't pass smog here in Cali. i welcome any suggestions, just explain them to me cause i just learned what a 12 bolt and 14 bolt were and am still pretty new to this /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
    /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  2. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2001
    Posts:
    4,762
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    San Jose CA
    14B rear and a 8bolt D44 front is pretty stout for what you are describing.

    A 454 swap would be VERY hard, if not impossible. the 454,IMHO, would emit more exhaust and more emissions, and since a K5 never came stock with a BBC, that would be a tough sell.
     
  3. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2002
    Posts:
    19,217
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Everywhere
  4. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2002
    Posts:
    8,591
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anaheim, Ca
    what are the price diffrences and weight/performance diffrences of a D44 compaired to a D60? Also i heard that a 14 bolt weighs like 600 pounds compaired to a 12 bolt weighing like 200 pounds and giving me better ground clearance, is the 14 bolt necessary for my application?
     
  5. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2001
    Posts:
    4,762
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    San Jose CA
    well, 4.10 is the most common 1-ton gear ratio.

    I can get you a 4.10 14B dropped into the back of your rig for $350-400. the D44 8-lug can be had for a few hundred more.

    Going to beefier axles can never be bad. one less thing to worry about. and if you are not a "hardcore extreeeeeem" wheeler, the 14BFF will live forever with routinemaintience (sp?)

    not to mention a detroit is $300 and easy to install /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  6. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2002
    Posts:
    8,591
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anaheim, Ca
    i kinda wanted 4.56's just cause there lower, i really don't know the reason, maybe cause i'd have quicker off the line or just faster responce time... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  7. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2002
    Posts:
    2,495
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Apple Valley California
    If i were you brandon i would spend the money on a nice set of long travel Deaver Springs and some good rebuildable shocks. Keep the 1/2 ton stuff, 1 ton stuff it too heavy for jumping like you and I do. If you really do want to upgrade the rear end I have an extra 6 Lug 14 bolt i might be willing to part with. If you are looking to replace the engine I would stay with a GM Performance Parts engine, had a nice warranty, so if your enine breaks down you will be covered at any GM dealership in the nation. The 383 is a great deal, but you have to buy an intake and maybe upgrade the tranny. They also make some nice 350's that will bolt right into your truck without any major undertakings. 4.11's should be fine if you drive on the street a lot. I run 4.11's and 35's and do a lot of both street driving and off roading and it seems to work out fine. But remember its your truck and your money. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  8. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2002
    Posts:
    8,591
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anaheim, Ca
    nice of you to help out, but i won't be jumping it anymore. i cracked the frame once and don't wanna keep spending $$$ to fix it. but thanks for the info /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  9. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2002
    Posts:
    8,591
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anaheim, Ca
    can anyone else compair 4.11's and 4.56's as far as acceleration, top end, does it improve my towing ability or diminish it? just the diffrences really? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2001
    Posts:
    4,762
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    San Jose CA
    4.10 will give slightly better fuel economy.

    4.56 wil give slightly better performance.

    I am slightly unhappy with 4.10's and 39.5's but not enuff to swap them out and go to 4.88's

    generally, if you do not go atleast 2 "steps" up or down. For example. the difference between 4.10's and 4.56's will be slightly noticable. same for 3.08's and 3.23's.
     
  11. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2002
    Posts:
    8,591
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anaheim, Ca
    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    generally, if you do not go atleast 2 "steps" up or down. For example. the difference between 4.10's and 4.56's will be slightly noticable. same for 3.08's and 3.23's.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    did you finish your idea here or do i just not get it? are you saying that if you go 2 steps or more it will be more noticible than just one step? what are the steps? 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, 4.88 ? am i missing any?
     
  12. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2001
    Posts:
    7,406
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Indiana
    If it where me and my money. I'd build a stout 350 (guessing since your an 89 you may have TBI?) do the upgrade to holleys 502-6 throttle body and matching intake if your really into it go for the cam too its a world of difference, add a nice exhaust to let it all breath. That should be a months or two extra income. Wait 4-6 months and go with the 14bolt/D44 idea. Your like me lots of daily/road driving and a little offroadablity. Build the motor then work on the offroading. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  13. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2001
    Posts:
    4,762
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    San Jose CA
    generally the steps go like this (or close to it depending on the make of the rear axle)

    2.73
    3.08
    3.23
    3.55
    3.73
    3.91 (kinda rare)
    4.10
    4.56
    4.88
    5.13
    (keeps going, but i don't know of any effective ratios till you get to rockwells at 6.72 /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif )

    So you will notice a big increase in performance going "two steps" up

    I have 4.10's in my axles. 4.56's would be a bit of a waste, IMHO, because they are so close to my old ratio. 4.88's on the other hand are "two steps up" and would give a noticeable increase.

    I went from 3.08's to 4.10's and the difference was night and day /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2002
    Posts:
    8,591
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anaheim, Ca
    what do you think of this zakk?
    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    ...build a stout 350, do the upgrade to holleys 502-6 throttle body and matching intake if your really into it go for the cam too its a world of difference, add a nice exhaust to let it all breath.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    i would like the most powerful motor i can get, weather it is a 350, a 383, or bigger. I can save up for it and i just want to get quality, i searched for motors, but don't know what smogable and what's not? I want my truck to have power, it is kinda week now and i thirst for it! thanks for helping me so much and i look forward to learning more from you at pismo! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  15. rogerwilco71

    rogerwilco71 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Posts:
    179
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Central-Cal
    Just Me, but I'd do a new-gear-front/new-axle-rear change to 4.10(good comprimise for different size tires), Turbo400 Trans, and a 205 transfer case...give your truck a good solid core, then go from there.
     
  16. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2002
    Posts:
    908
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Hancock, MI
    Go find a junkyard block. With one month's savings you can get all the machine work done. In a couple month's time you can have a nice piece of cast iron that you built yourself.

    I, myself, would find a SB400. There is no replacement for displacement. When you do that you'll probably want to find a 454 throttle body, injectors, and ECM so you can feed those 4 1/8" cylinders.

    I'd wait on the drivetrain. This way when you've got a 400hp/400ftlb mouse under the hood you can break your old stuff in order to convince yourself to upgrade. hehe.

    I'd be planning on beefing your transmission and rear axle next. Plain-jane 700R4s are only good for 425hp and a 10 bolt starts to cry at 400hp and 31" rubber. You can cheat death by pulling the rear carrier and deburring/polishing it but resistance is futile. It's not like a pro-street car where you're trying to keep the weight down.
     
  17. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2002
    Posts:
    8,591
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anaheim, Ca
    would that be smog legal in California though? 400 hp sound great to me!!! but i don't know if it'll pass smog?
     
  18. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2002
    Posts:
    908
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Hancock, MI
    Months ago Car Craft or one of my other magazines did it with a carburetor. I imagine it can be done with fool-injection even easier.

    I like Michigan. No inspections.
     
  19. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2001
    Posts:
    4,762
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    San Jose CA
    nah...i'm just a tad smarter than a stupid rock!

    i think that is a good idea. I bought a 260hp crate GM motor and I am pretty happy with it. i am having a tuff time tuning it, but power is there when it decides to run well.

    I really thing that if you are going for overall reliability, a crate motor cannot be beat. GMPP has some great engines out there for resonable prices. Everyone knows a guy who built a 450 hp 350 with parts totalling less than $1000, but was it reliable?

    So i dunno. it depends on what you are after. I can talk a great engine, but building it would take forever for me. hands on expereince with motor ony comes after you gernade a few, and i am too poor to afford that learning curve!
     
  20. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2002
    Posts:
    8,591
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Anaheim, Ca
    would it be possible to get 300, maybe 350 HP out of an engine and still pass smog here in cali and be reliable? i know they have new chevy's with 454's in them.
     

Share This Page