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Idle problems...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by xswede, Aug 19, 2003.

  1. xswede

    xswede Registered Member

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    In my Blazer I have the 350tbi enginge from 1988. I changed the sparkplugs today, and I'm not sure, but I don't find the idle as "smooth" as it was before the change... Is it possible that this has to do with the change? Runs great when accelerating but not while idling. Seems to "choke" every couple of seconds as if the ignition was set just a little too low. If this problem has to do with the spark plugs, which ones do you use? /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
    Thanks
    Dan
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Delco has apparently started changing their plug designs, what brand did you use?

    I'll use nothing other than NGK or Delco from now on. (based on others experiences and thoughts) Although as cheap as Delco is getting (and the new plug differences from the old designs) I guess I'm just going to have to make sure I pay attention more to the stuff I'm replacing. That is true of just about any auto parts now...

    Put some Autolites in my car about 2 years ago, spent hours diagnosing a "carb" problem, since the ignition stuff was all new. Turned out two of eight autolite plugs, out of the box, were bad.

    Not obvious from the exterior bad. One was sparking up inside the plug casing, probably cracked insulator, the other one just didn't put out anything near a consistent spark.
     
  3. xswede

    xswede Registered Member

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    I bought NGK which I were told would be best. Don't remember the "model" nr. So it could be the plugs then? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  4. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Did you already toss the old plugs? Wouldn't be hard to replace them and see if you are ACTUALLY noticing a difference.

    If you think it's a bad plug or wire, pull one off at a time while it's running. If any of them unplug without making a difference in the way the engine runs, then that cylinder is "dead", and you need to figure out why.

    How about gapping? I haven't found that gap makes one iota of difference (going from .035-.050" for instance) that I can *feel*, nor see in mileage increase or decrease, but if way off, it may be.

    Were these the plugs handed to you by a parts dealer? Number should be on the plug (I imagine) so you could always run the numbers yourself online and see what you can come up with for application.
     

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